1/32 Czech Models T-33A (CT-133)

[ALF18]

On 6/26/2022 at 5:34 PM, mattcour said:

I really like how this is moving forward! I have the kit but never took the courage start it yet, this is a good motivation and the progress is just so fine.

Merci, Matt. Pas facile, le kit...

 

[ALF18]

Cockpit coming along. I've put together a lot of the PE on the side walls, and chopped the resin canopy lock/unlock assembly from its blocks.

 

I used Lumocolor permanent markers for the black colour of the toggle switches, the red of the guarded switches, and a Pilot brand metallic silver pen for the silver switches and buttons. I bent the PE for the map cases a bit open, to enhance their 3D appearance. 

 

Here's the canopy lock/unlock assembly. Only the front seater can lock and unlock the canopy, which is a good thing.

 

Well, with a small hacksaw, I managed to rid the seats of their blocks fairly easily. I did manage to knock off one of the ejection handles, though, so I'll have to scratch-build one.

 

 

ALF

[Rockie Yarwood]

Coming along nicely, Alf! And I have to say I really dig your "hero shot" on the first page. 

[DrewH]

Com'on Alf - those were the comfy seats! LOL - didn't you get the 'extra cushion' from maintenance? bet you waved 'bye-bye' on climb out a few times too.  

 

Looking forward to watching this - haven't had the drive to try this one myself. Comox t-bags were grey by the time I got to them in the early 90's. Great start boss! there's a bad pic of me floating around somewhere in the cockpit of a hanger queen before my red pages exam. 

[MikeMaben]

[ALF18]

Fixed the problem with the snapped-off ejection handle. I used some small-gauge wire. My first attempt, I cut off a small length of the wire, then started to bend it. I realized that I needed tools to do that, so I got some small tweezers, squeezed... and the little bit of wire flew away somewhere, and probably will only be found when I'm done this model.

 

My second attempt, I did the bending while the wire was attached to the spool, compared the radius of curve and length with the existing part, then chopped.

 

A little CA glue, and the seat was ready to be finished off.

 

Only some small touch-ups required, including the silver on the belt buckles.

 

More soon

ALF

[ALF18]

On 7/6/2022 at 10:51 PM, Rockie Yarwood said:

Coming along nicely, Alf! And I have to say I really dig your "hero shot" on the first page. 

Thanks! I haven't changed a bit since then... lol.

On 7/7/2022 at 5:15 AM, MARU5137 said:

ALF,

SPLENDID  job so far.

Doing a very good job. 

   

Thanks

ALF

[ALF18]

On 7/6/2022 at 11:06 PM, DrewH said:

Com'on Alf - those were the comfy seats! LOL - didn't you get the 'extra cushion' from maintenance? bet you waved 'bye-bye' on climb out a few times too.  

 

Looking forward to watching this - haven't had the drive to try this one myself. Comox t-bags were grey by the time I got to them in the early 90's. Great start boss! there's a bad pic of me floating around somewhere in the cockpit of a hanger queen before my red pages exam. 

HAH! Your definition of comfy... I guess they were better than a bed of broken glass - barely. Maintenance didn't have extra cushions for us in Cold Lake - I guess we weren't spoiled like those Comox softies!

This model is not for the faint of heart. Fit is pretty terrible (working on the fuselage join right now) in some places.

ALF

[ALF18]

This is one part where I have to be patient. I did some dry-fitting of the seats into the rail assemblies. Those assemblies (you can see them on the cockpit floor, with the solid backs) are tricky because there is no clear guide for where to glue them. That is true for much of this kit. No such thing as locating pins, and sometimes not even a ridge to give a clue. The instructions are not super clear either.

I've assembled the nose gear well (top left), painted the wheels (background), and finished the pre-assembly of the side panels (left and top right).

Why the patience? Because I have to glue one thing in place, wait for it to dry solidly, then do the next step. Otherwise, it falls apart like a house of cards.

Right after this picture, I glued the left sidewall into place, and started to fiddle with the seats. When I did that with the rear seat, I found that the silver part at the bottom of the left side wall interfered with the seat. I jiggled it into place, and promptly broke the seal on the glue holding the two rear rails in place. Grr. Those silver parts look like they're supposed to be the landing gear handles. Yes, one of the worst possible places for a landing gear handle ever. To add to the problem, the gear sometimes had a nasty habit of collapsing if the handle was not clicked properly into place in the down position. 

That's why, after selecting gear down, it was standard procedure to do a 'shake test' by jiggling the landing gear handle to make sure it didn't pop up and out of the down position.

 

 

More soon, as things dry and become more solid. My biggest concern right now is how will the tub assembly fit into the fuselage. I see some ridges as guides, but the width of the tub will be important. If it is too wide or too narrow (i.e. if I've installed the side panels slightly wrong), then it won't hold or might cause the fuselage not to close properly.

ALF

[ALF18]

Here the left-hand cockpit wall is installed. You can see that the front silver thingie (technical term) on the lower wall has its rear half broken off. Brittle resin, of course. It's also clear how the rear seat rails have come loose.

 

When dry-fitting the front seat, I noted that the gear handle assembly interferes with the seat. It's actually a good thing that the rear portion of it has snapped off.

 

 

Now to add the resin footrests to the fronts of the seats.

 

ALF

[BloorwestSiR]

It's not an easy kit but you're making great progress on it. 

 

I had to look back at my build to see how I dealt with the cockpit. From what I can tell, I joined the fuselage halves together and then inserted the cockpit tub from underneath. The seats then went in last but I had to turn them sideways to get them through the sill. 

 

Carl

[ALF18]

On 7/10/2022 at 3:58 PM, BloorwestSiR said:

It's not an easy kit but you're making great progress on it. 

 

I had to look back at my build to see how I dealt with the cockpit. From what I can tell, I joined the fuselage halves together and then inserted the cockpit tub from underneath. The seats then went in last but I had to turn them sideways to get them through the sill. 

 

Carl

Interesting! I considered doing that, and have gone so far as to dry-fit with another of the same kit. Unfortunately, it's too late for this one - in my next update you'll see that I've passed that stage already.

I have 2 others to build in this scale, and this one will be a steep learning curve for me. My plan is to make two for myself: one from Cold Lake, where I flew them, and another from the conversion training unit where I learned to fly them. I have resin cockpits for both of them. 

I like your idea of joining the fuselage halves together first, then inserting the cockpit. There is indeed a huge hole underneath that makes it possible. I'm sure a lot of the fit problems I have been having are a result of the way I glued the cockpit in place on one half first.

ALF

Edited July 12, 2022 by ALF18
clarified why too late to apply suggestion.

[ALF18]

Seats installed, along with the right-side cockpit wall.

 

Now the instrument panels too.

 

Sorry for the fuzzy pictures. It's a very grey day here, and natural light is very muted. Dry-fitting of the cockpit into the right-hand fuselage half. Yes, the seats are buried rather deep into the fuselage. In reality, they can be raised a bit more, but in the T-33 I always felt like I was inside a deep pit. Visibility from the back seat forward was almost nil. Landing from the back seat was difficult, requiring me to look out the sides in the final stages with the nose raised in the air.

 

I did a lot of dry-fitting of the cockpit, seeing how it should be installed. There is a small ridge that it's supposed to sit on, but the fit isn't clearly one way or another. Next kit I build (too late for this one - this is all history I'm posting now) I will glue the fuselage together, then insert the cockpit from below. That should avoid the huge fit problems I have with the fuselage join!

Aft part of the cockpit, showing the small ridge on inside of fuselage.

 

Front view of same dry-fit.

 

Tailpipe. Sheesh. Seems the ridges (one that's chopped, and the other thicker portion toward the rear) both prevent the rear fuselage from closing properly. I hacked away at the tailpipe to avoid this.

 

Here you can see I chopped off the thicker part at the bottom (aft) of the tailpipe assembly.

 

Next, the nose wheel bay.

ALF

 

[ALF18]

Next troublesome fit - the nose wheel well. The kit's plastic is somewhat recessed, giving a possible clue as to where exactly the wheel bay should go.

 

The problem is that it doesn't fit snugly into these recesses, and could be glued in at multiple angles and in many little variations of positioning. Dry fitting to see...

 

Aft portion of the nose wheel well.

 

I finally applied some glue, and will try this. Next step, after it solidifies, is to see if the two fuselage halves fit nicely with this part in this position. If not, I'll use more Tamiya Extra-Thin glue to unseat it and correct the positioning. That's one thing I like about that glue. It can be used to undo a small mistake.

 

Next, cockpit glued in place. Now that the cockpit is in place, I decided to work a bit on the intakes before gluing the fuselage together.

 

Remember I mentioned that the kit parts are not numbered? Not all of us are as smart as Neo and will refer to the sprue drawings at the beginning of the instructions... Well, I noticed that there were two very similar parts. The upper one, dry-fit on the fuselage, is the one for the T-33. The lower one is for the F-80. You can see that the T-33's is longer, the extra length for the rear seat. I tossed the two short parts into the bin. BTW, both the T-33 and F-80 parts fit very poorly into the fuselage side. Out of curiosity, I tried both, and neither fit well!

 

I assembled the intake trunking, and ended up with this assembly.

 

I have some trepidation about how it will fit though...

ALF

[ALF18]

Sure enough, when I install the intake tubing, then try to dry-fit the outer parts over top, the fit is truly atrocious. I'm going to glue the fuselage halves together first, then play with this some more. I'm starting to lose sleep over the poor fit. Here is the culprit: the thick ridge around the intake trunking, as well as the overall height of the trunking above the fuselage side.

 

Speaking of losing sleep... 

Before I glued the fuselage halves together, I had an overnight flash. Some people obssess about their lives and relationships at 3 am... I think about my latest model.

Here is what I thought about. This is the nose gear bay, assembled according to the kit instructions. Have a good look at the little sockets at bottom left.

 

I had a dim memory of something being not quite right when I built this kit the first time, several years ago, but at 3 am it kept evading me, until I remembered. The little sockets were intended to receive the side tabs on the nose gear strut! Here is what the strut assembly looks like. The little horizontal tabs at the top of E10 are what is supposed to go into the little holes in the wheel well as shown above.

 

Then, still at 3 am, I remembered that I had to chop off the lower halves of those receptacles to receive the horizontal tabs. The instructions make no sense, having the modeller install the gear struts after everything else is assembled, in this step. The only possible explanation is that it's intended for the modeller to ensure there is a gap in the little receptacles that would allow the tabs on E10 to fit into them... but that is NOT clear in the instructions.

 

 

There is no way the little tabs could be forced into the slots after the whole thing is assembled. I thought about it some more, and came up with a solution. Here is the offending area. The sides of the wheel well are glued onto the centre part, so all I had to do was undo the front of one side, slip the strut (not assembled yet, just part E10) into the slots, then glue the side back in place, being careful not to get any glue in the holes for the wheel strut. Then, I could rotate the strut up into the wheel well while I assembled the rest of the model, and finally glue it all in place at the very end.

 

In went the strut, then I clamped and reglued the wheel well. Luckily, the Tamiya Extra-Thin glue made it easy to remove the wheel well, pry it open, then reglue it all.