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1/48 F-16C to ADF conversion


docdodj01

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Starting on a new kit, this time, a Tamiya 1/48 F-16C block 25/30.  This will be converted into a F-16ADF, markings yet to be determined once I get my hands on the decal. Anyways, on with the show:

To start, I bought a KASL 1/48 F-16 conversion set, basically converts the spine of the F-16C to an A.

9993376-F-4-DE0-4143-AB18-4-B7-CC21-AC80

I have to say that this is not an easy conversion, you have to cut the kit wing part rear end into 3 parts, THEN, fit the replacement deck on the rear. So I went at it and got this.

BBF43-F9-D-43-FE-405-F-9510-8-CF31199-A9

Fit well enough, but has a step on both front and rear. But that's the thing to expect from resin replacements.  So now I just need to trim down the joins to fit better. 

 

Now of course, I did say I'm building an F-16ADF, and therefore I need a tail for the build, and ADF specific blade slicer antennas (there are 2). So enter my donor kit!

85-F321-B0-524-A-4939-880-E-E0-D62-CDE07

 

And here, in a nutshell is the plan:

198-AC1-AF-1-E66-4-F05-8-F78-519062854-A

 

 

Of course, there will be other changes like certain panel lines, beer can RWR, and piano hinges on the flaps to be deleted, but these would be done later. The biggest challenge would be the cockpit, specifically converting it from a C to an A.

 

Edited by docdodj01
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So of course, I can't continue the build unless I change the cockpit. After looking at all options available (resin, PE, scratch, or steal parts from a Hasegawa kit), I finally arrived to a solution to convert the cockpit with minimal fuss.

 

Quinta Studio decals. Specifically a set made for the kinetic F-16A kit

35-C9533-C-E98-A-4515-9123-7-D64-AF77-DB

I got a set, and after quick measurements and eyeballing it, The decals will need a little trimming. So off goes all the raised details on the cockpit, airbrush an interior grey color, and put on the decals. And here it is:

7684-F4-E8-878-D-4262-8-BBC-1-DC471-E3-B

I now have a proper F-16A cockpit.

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15 minutes ago, aircommando130 said:

That's awesome! I wonder if you could cut the back out of a Hasegawa A model

F-16 and graft it to the Academy F-16I kit to build a F-16B in 32nd scale???

From what I read is that the academy F-16 is not accurate shape wise. So fitting it may be difficult.

 

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Checking decal fit on the tail. I might try and correct the tail a bit since appears a little too short.

19-DDF48-F-8-F8-F-4-AEE-8-B44-31-C4-BA74

 

I also DIY'd my own stiffener plates using my silhouette cutter.

43797960-65-A9-412-A-914-D-006-E6-AF91-A

 

Looks ok to me. Also, a little more sanding looks to be in order

68110-B38-0-C2-B-43-A0-BB79-0-B3167417-A

 

CFDD51-B7-512-C-4710-929-B-8-CDFD7-E77-A

328637-E5-DC63-4944-9216-227-AABEA11-F9.

 

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Of course it wouldn't be an ADF version without the spotlight on the left side. I have a spare part from the kinetic kit that corresponded to the left side cheek plate part, but it was a little too short, and the spotlight hole was too big. sooo, back to the original tamiya part, eyeballed the hole, and viola.

3-D18-CF26-1-C48-4058-B0-C1-3-A94-C4-EFD

 I used a clear sprue part originally for a missile head. fits will enough. Will try and fix the transparency later

And from there, the nose area done

627-F1404-87-CC-43-CD-809-F-769981-E0440

 

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After looking at different references, I came to the conclusion that the base of the tail looked to short in height and length. The tip of the tail base forward should reach at least the tip of the scab plate, reach a panel line.

627-F1404-87-CC-43-CD-809-F-769981-E0440

 

So after much deliberation, I decided to correct this problem. I glued scrap styrene to the base of the tail to correct the height and length. here it is after shaving off a lot of styrene. Sadly, my sausage fingers broke of the tip, the reason for a glued in repair.

A5-B485-B3-101-C-4-AF3-A454-775-AB87-BBA

 

From there, I added apoxie putty to fill in the gaps, and the carefully sand it flush.

Here's where I am at the moment. Using the KASL F-16A tail, the Revell tail is almost as long

B8-E889-BD-F1-D5-4091-A235-0-EEF9-AD65-C

 and as tall as the resin F-16A tail

B8-E889-BD-F1-D5-4091-A235-0-EEF9-AD65-C

 

And when dry fitted on the Viper, it looks a lot better, to my eye.

8-C75-BECE-EDF0-446-F-9-EFA-7833-C28807-

 

 

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Work on correcting the tail base continues. Here I am now, sharpening the front, making sure tail is symmetric, and removing any seams, scratches, or bumps

3-AE2107-B-B2-D2-486-F-9-D71-2381-FC8-BC

 

Here is the tail. Am very tempted to cast this one. Any potential takers?

51634967-D1-B3-4231-BBE2-FCD2298-ED07-A.

 

For those who might be confused when I say the front of the tail should just go a little beyond a panel line, this is what I was taking about

3-C502-CF3-96-A5-4000-B262-DABFFBA289-D9

The tail front should cross over that point. I have checked all references and it should be that.

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14 hours ago, Cheetah11 said:

Bummer!!!

Kinetic has just announced a new tool F-16A just as you have finished most of the conversion work.

Cheers

Nick

Yup, the curse of scratch conversion. But to be fair, I don't think Kinetic would release an ADF variant. From what I understand, they'll be releasing an MLU variant

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

C5-DE39-F6-532-A-4-D84-BEE8-8-DC92-DF0-D 

primer coat on!

 

After waiting for a day for the primer to cure, I painted the rear burner and exhaust using tamiya lacquer metallics

4-C72-F087-3261-4-FB3-89-AA-B18317-FDE3-

 

For the rear, there is a characteristic bluish burn to it, so I sprayed on a light coat of clear blue to replicate it.

B6-F1525-F-BFDB-4567-8-D24-BF85-B3-EAE23

 

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