Greg W Posted July 20, 2022 Share Posted July 20, 2022 Spectacular job John! Such a great build to follow. Its nice to see how some of the Eduard exterior set integrates into the model. The delicate cowl flap actuators look tricky but very much worth the effort and you did a impressive job installing those. Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duke_ Posted July 20, 2022 Share Posted July 20, 2022 17 hours ago, Thunnus said: Back with another update on the D-9! I finally worked up enough motivation to finish the engine plug. After adding some wiring to the engine body itself, I drilled out some holes in both the forward and rear engine bulkheads for additional wiring runs and then painted the engine parts while the parts were still separated. I then started gluing the engine components together and adding wiring along the way to further complicate/populate this area. The wiring work is not accurate but is intended to simply give the impression of complexity. The ammo cannisters and chutes were chipped using hairspray to represent a bit of wear and tear in this area. The last component of the engine plug to be attached is the rear bulkhead. I've added some yellow electrical wiring bundles. The wheel well insert was also painted and chipped with hairspray. Now that the engine plug has been completed, I can dry-fit it into the fuselage to see what it looks like with the wheel well insert in place. Lots of this work gets hidden once the central wing part is in place but there is enough visible to make the previous work worthwhile. impressive work John! you really captured that ''busy'' engine look, i will use it as a reference for mine.. Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themongoose Posted July 21, 2022 Share Posted July 21, 2022 Thunnus when i 1st opened the post i thought those pics were the real thing you were showing for reference. Awesome job man! Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted July 21, 2022 Author Share Posted July 21, 2022 23 hours ago, Greg W said: Spectacular job John! Such a great build to follow. Its nice to see how some of the Eduard exterior set integrates into the model. The delicate cowl flap actuators look tricky but very much worth the effort and you did a impressive job installing those. The actuators ARE a bit tricky in that they are meant to span a specific distance and there are no references or markings on the cowl flaps for placement. I had to adjust quite a few of them when they got bent out of shape being too close to the fuselage. 7 hours ago, duke_ said: impressive work John! you really captured that ''busy'' engine look, i will use it as a reference for mine.. Thank you so much, Spyros. Looking at photo references for this area always gives me a headache... don't know which way is up or down! Glad to have passed this stage of the build! 3 hours ago, themongoose said: Thunnus when i 1st opened the post i thought those pics were the real thing you were showing for reference. Awesome job man! Thank you sir! Pushing forward a little bit more on this Dora. Here are the Eduard brass ammo chutes glued into place and painted. With the engine plug complete and temporarily in place, I can also dry-fit the cockpit tub. I'm now ready to glue the fuselage halves together. There are three sub-assemblies that go inside the fuselage. The cockpit slides into place after the fuselage is together so that will be last. I'm not sure if I showed the painted Eagle Editions resin tail wheel strut so here it is... The tail wheel is glued into place with CA glue. I had to trim the corner of the tail wheel base to allow the tabs of the horizontal tail planes to fit. The engine plug is glued into the starboard fuselage side first. The joint along the base of the supercharger intake was treated with multiple applications of Mr Surfacer 1000. The little scoop on top of the gun cowling is not ready for attachment but I've hollowed out the end using an x-acto blade. The fuselage halves are now fused together using Tamiya Extra Thin cement. Double checking to see if the engine plug is seated correctly. Citadelgrad, Victor K2, John Stambaugh and 24 others 27 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Molitor Posted July 21, 2022 Share Posted July 21, 2022 The last picture really shows off all your hard efforts. Like you mentioned already, the wheel well fairing will hide a lot but you know it all in there. Brilliant efforts going on here John. Regards from Lithuania! T Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted July 21, 2022 Share Posted July 21, 2022 Beautiful work as always It’s a constant source of puzzlement for me why no aftermarket manufacturer has ever made a resin plug / some add-on bits for the engine / what you can see up through the wheel well Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted July 23, 2022 Author Share Posted July 23, 2022 On 7/21/2022 at 4:30 AM, Troy Molitor said: The last picture really shows off all your hard efforts. Like you mentioned already, the wheel well fairing will hide a lot but you know it all in there. Brilliant efforts going on here John. Regards from Lithuania! T Thanks Troy! I like that last picture too as a visual summary of the work done so far before it gets covered up. On 7/21/2022 at 10:38 AM, nmayhew said: Beautiful work as always It’s a constant source of puzzlement for me why no aftermarket manufacturer has ever made a resin plug / some add-on bits for the engine / what you can see up through the wheel well Thank you, as always! A small detail to attend to... earlier, I had placed a section of brass tubing in the wheel well to accept a piece of wiring so that the wiring run doesn't just end at the edge of the plastic part. I've cut and bent small pieces of copper wiring so that they will continue the wiring run into the engine compartment. These parts can be painted dark grey and added afterwards. The interior of the radiator cowling pieces have been painted. RLM02 Green Grey (Mr Hobby Aqueous) and Black (Tamiya) are the primary colors used here. The radiator face has been dry-brushed with Testors Silver to highlight the mesh. You can see that the hole for the prop is a bit wonky... the result of trying to enlarge an existing hole to accept the Henri Daehne prop shaft. No worries though... there is a plug glued to the rear with hole that is perfectly centered. While the fuselage seams are being cleaned, this is a good time to check out the fit of the external fuselage components, including the re-shaped gun cowling and the large, Ta-152H-style tail unit. The Fw190D-9 canopy, made of flexible plexiglass, narrows as it slides open to the rear. In order to replicate this effect, I've glued some tabs to the inside edge of the canopy. These tabs are simply pieces of photoetch sprue that I found in my spares box and glued into place with CA glue. You can see how the tabs catch the fuselage sides, mimicking the pinching effect of the real canopy. Next, I'll be doing some work on the landing gear parts. Mostly kit parts augmented with a pair resin/metal composite legs by Strategic Ordnance Works. Sasha As, TAG, Landrotten Highlander and 11 others 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted July 23, 2022 Author Share Posted July 23, 2022 Working on the landing gear components, I've added a spring to the actuator arm using lead wire. I've also added a small junction box and electrical wiring. The black stem is the post from which the tail landing gear retraction cable will be attached later. Brake lines have been added to the main landing gear legs, made of copper wiring and held in place by small sections of brass tubing. The last length the brake lines were fashioned with a slightly thicker gauge of wiring and will be added after the gear legs have been painted. These components will be primed with Mr Primer Surfacer 1000 before painting. Rockie Yarwood, Greg W, daHeld and 12 others 15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted July 23, 2022 Share Posted July 23, 2022 Looking great John, here's a shot of how the pinch happens ... Shiba, daHeld, scvrobeson and 6 others 8 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nighthawk Calling 1 Posted July 23, 2022 Share Posted July 23, 2022 4 hours ago, Thunnus said: Thanks Troy! I like that last picture too as a visual summary of the work done so far before it gets covered up. Thank you, as always! A small detail to attend to... earlier, I had placed a section of brass tubing in the wheel well to accept a piece of wiring so that the wiring run doesn't just end at the edge of the plastic part. I've cut and bent small pieces of copper wiring so that they will continue the wiring run into the engine compartment. These parts can be painted dark grey and added afterwards. The interior of the radiator cowling pieces have been painted. RLM02 Green Grey (Mr Hobby Aqueous) and Black (Tamiya) are the primary colors used here. The radiator face has been dry-brushed with Testors Silver to highlight the mesh. You can see that the hole for the prop is a bit wonky... the result of trying to enlarge an existing hole to accept the Henri Daehne prop shaft. No worries though... there is a plug glued to the rear with hole that is perfectly centered. While the fuselage seams are being cleaned, this is a good time to check out the fit of the external fuselage components, including the re-shaped gun cowling and the large, Ta-152H-style tail unit. The Fw190D-9 canopy, made of flexible plexiglass, narrows as it slides open to the rear. In order to replicate this effect, I've glued some tabs to the inside edge of the canopy. These tabs are simply pieces of photoetch sprue that I found in my spares box and glued into place with CA glue. You can see how the tabs catch the fuselage sides, mimicking the pinching effect of the real canopy. Next, I'll be doing some work on the landing gear parts. Mostly kit parts augmented with a pair resin/metal composite legs by Strategic Ordnance Works. Can I ask what CA glue did you use to glue the tabs on please. Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sasha As Posted July 23, 2022 Share Posted July 23, 2022 Great construction!!! Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted July 23, 2022 Author Share Posted July 23, 2022 12 hours ago, MikeMaben said: Looking great John, here's a shot of how the pinch happens ... Thanks for the pic, Mike! I was previously aware of the hinge along the top front edge of the canopy but had no intention of trying to replicate this effect. I have zero confidence in trying to manipulate the plastic canopy without putting stress marks or snapping the plastic. This is the best that I can manage for now. 11 hours ago, Nighthawk Calling 1 said: Can I ask what CA glue did you use to glue the tabs on please. I used VMS Flexy 5k CA glue to attach the brass tabs to the canopy. 7 hours ago, Sasha As said: Great construction!!! Thank you! I've started painting the landing gear components. Base color of RLM02 (Mr Hobby Aqueous) over a coat of Mr Primer Surfacer 1000. While that paint dries, I am going to modify/improve the various external antennae including (from top to bottom): the FuG16ZY loop antenna, FuG16ZY morane antenna, pitot tube and FuG25a IFF antenna. Generally speaking, the kit representations for these parts are too thick and can be easily replaced with other materials. For the IFF antenna, I simply drill a small hole in the bottom of the base and glue a piece of stretched sprue. I like stretched sprue in this instance since it is not as easily bent as thin wire. Note that I have kept the molded antenna intact to make the base easier to hold. The molded antenna is then snipped off. The modified antenna is now more to scale. The FuG16ZY morane antenna tip is snipped off and replaced with a piece of copper wire. The tip of the pitot tube is similarly replace with a section of brass tubing. The loop antenna is snipped off of its base. I like to use the thin aluminum from a soda can for this replacement. A pin vise is used to hold the small base. Two holes are drilled out using the tip of an x-acto blade for the new loop. The thin strip of soda can material is wrapped around the shaft of an appropriately-sized paint brush to get the circular shape. One end is attached first with CA glue. Since there is a bit of springiness in the loop, it's best to let the glue cure before attaching the other side. After attaching the other side, you can gently adjust and re-shape the loop to your satisfaction. Four quick and easy modifications! LSP_Kevin, Dpgsbody55, themongoose and 18 others 20 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IainM Posted July 24, 2022 Share Posted July 24, 2022 Outstanding work! All your work is really paying off, love it! Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dpgsbody55 Posted July 24, 2022 Share Posted July 24, 2022 Some wonderful work here, and very inspirational. I think this needs another e-book to be written about this build. Cheers, Michael Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted July 24, 2022 Share Posted July 24, 2022 Always enjoy the additions you make to your builds, and the way you explain them to help everyone. That's a cool fix for the canopy to replicate the pinch on it. Matt Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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