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Hasegawa 1/32 Fw 190D-9 Late "Brown 4"


Thunnus

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Following with great interest! Just a thought: when masking the metal panels on the underwings and doing the flat cote, the black Balkenkreuze are divided into a flat and a glossy area (as far as I can see). If not planned from the beginning, you might be able to correct this before beginning the weathering. 

As written in the beginning: no critics, just a thought. 

 

Cheers 

Reimund 

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Thanks everyone! 

 

On 11/5/2022 at 3:05 AM, Isar 30/07 said:

Following with great interest! Just a thought: when masking the metal panels on the underwings and doing the flat cote, the black Balkenkreuze are divided into a flat and a glossy area (as far as I can see). If not planned from the beginning, you might be able to correct this before beginning the weathering. 

As written in the beginning: no critics, just a thought. 

 

Cheers 

Reimund 

Thanks Reimund!  I noticed that as well and have since given the shiny portion of the black crosses a flat coat.

 

The build is creeping along.  My mind has been distracted by work and also potential new projects.  I may start a new build and leave the Ki-61 build for a little later as I don't feel like riveting right now.

 

The cowl gun barrels were painted prior to the post shading but I forgot to post it.  Because the gun barrels hang from the ceiling of the cowling and separated from the troughs, they are easy to mask off and paint.
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Another round of post shading was done and this is what Brown 4 looks like prior to the salt fading stage.
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Thanks Jay!  Appreciate the comments very much!  Ain't gonna lie... I still sometimes take the model in hand and imagine it flying, like I did when I was a kid.

 

The next weathering step is salt fading.  Sometimes used created chipping effects, this technique utilizes salt crystals to form a mask of random spot patterns.  The salt is affixed to the model using a thin layer of water... when the water dries, the salt is temporarily fused onto the model's surface.
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Once dry, a highly diluted lighter color such as tan or grey is randomly sprayed onto the model.  This is a tricky technique as it is very difficult to discern how heavy or light the diluted color is being applied.  I like a very subtle, barely noticeable effect but I have a hard time dialing it in.  This time, the effect was a little too strong.  This is a very thin layer so it can be scrubbed back using Micromesh.
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After some adjustments, the salt fading looks a little less pronounced.  I still need to work on it a little bit more.  It's important to let the model sit a few days after salt fading to catch any remnants of salt crust that can collect in cracks and crevices. The exhaust stains were applied during the post shading step.
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I normally apply the salt fading on the upper surfaces as it seems to mimic the stains left by water drying after rain.  A closer look at some of the streaking effects applied by airbrush during the post shading stage.
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You are building a true work of art John!  I have never been brave enough to try the salt method on aircraft, only armor.  With armor you can weather heavier if you get the salt staining/chipping too heavy.  I am always afraid I'll ruin a build late in the construction phase.

 

Ernest

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 Love those wheel wells!  So many modelers ignore them when they are weathering.  In reality, wheel wells are probably the grimiest part of an aircraft.   One humble suggestion on weathering - your subject appears to be a very late war aircraft.   Keep in mind by that time, most Luftwaffe aircraft were hardly ever flown due to fuel shortages, so you probably won't see a high degree of wear and tear on the airframe.   As always though, there were exceptions.   

 

Keep up the good work! 

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All of the work here is just so beautifully rendered, from build to paint to post. Its a real treat to go over the thread multiple times and soak it in. 

 

Which flat clear have you used and how do you like to apply it?

Edited by Greg W
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