Hasegawa 1/32 Fw 190D-9 Late "Brown 4"

[scvrobeson]

Another great update John. Do you have to drill out the landing gear attachment point? It looks solid on the kit part.

 

 

Matt 

[Citadelgrad]

58 minutes ago, scvrobeson said:

Another great update John. Do you have to drill out the landing gear attachment point? It looks solid on the kit part.

 

 

Matt 

I thought the same.

 

great looking gear, John. 

[Thunnus]

2 hours ago, scvrobeson said:

Another great update John. Do you have to drill out the landing gear attachment point? It looks solid on the kit part.

 

 

Matt 

Ah... sorry guys... forgot to mention that I had placed circular masks over the landing gear attachment point to keep them clear of paint.  The openings are present and square in shape... just temporarily covered by tape.

[scvrobeson]

That makes a lot more sense. Couldn't have imagined how Hasegawa had screwed that design up.  Smart idea to keep them from getting fouled with paint.

 

 

 

Matt

[Thunnus]

Work continues on Brown 4... I've augmented the coolant and oil overflow ports with brass tubing.

 

 

Here is a look at the rudder with the Archer control surface decal applied.  This one took the most time and effort since the Ta152H tail is slightly different than the standard 190 and the decal had to be custom cut to fit.

 

 

The upper wings have been glued onto the wing bottom. I'll take some time inspecting the glue seam and cleaning it up.

 

 

The brass flap bays have been glued into place using CA glue.  I'm going to run a bead of black CA glue along the trailing edge since it is both a glued joint and a PE folding edge.

 

 

This oval panel just outboard of the landing gear attachment has been filled with black CA glue.  From my understanding, this panel indicates a conversion from a 190A, which had an outer wing gun position.  Since not D-9's were converted from earlier A-series airframes, this panel is not present on all Doras.  I have a decent view of the leading edge of Brown 4's wing and based on that photo, I am removing this panel.

 

 

This might be related to the panel that I've removed from the upper wing.  My guess is that it is related to a conversion from an 190A wing.  Again, I have a reference photo that happens to show that area of the wing and I can see no indication of the panel so it too has been filled with black CA glue.

 

 

Let's a take a look at the kit prop compared to the resin prop from Henri Daehne.  Beyond the subtle shape differences, the resin spinner has a nicely defined panel line around the middle with a row of rivets.  The openings for the prop blades is noticeably larger on the HD version as well.

 

 

The larger opening is necessary to accommodate the well-detailed prop blade attachment rings, complete with counterweights..  The prop blades shapes are similar but the HD's is "curvier" with a noticeable hump at the base of prop blade.

 

 

The prop hub and backplate... no comparison between the two!  Please note the that I've already modified the hub cover and embedded a tiny magnet within.

 

 

This matches another magnet that I've glued into the spinner cap, allowing the removal of  the spinner cap to show the detail underneath.

 

 

I always procrastinate with the painting of nice resin parts and HD's resin props are probably the nicest resin I've run across so it might be awhile before I work up enough nerve to throw paint on these.

 

[Thunnus]

Some more work on Brown 4.  I've replaced the wing camera opening with a ring punched from sheet styrene to make it more uniformly circular.

 

 

Next, I decided to paint the exhaust pipes.  I'm using the kit pieces that I've modified by hollowing out the ends with an x-acto blade.

 

 

The exhausts are given a base coat of black.

 

 

This is followed with a coat of Alclad Steel.

 

 

Next is a light coat of Alclad Exhaust Manifold, which gives the exhausts a bronze tint.

 

 

I mix up a rusty brown color using Brown, Red and Yellow.  This is dry-brushed onto the exhausts.

 

 

It's back to the airbrush for the last step.  I spray a thin mix of black into the openings of the exhaust, isolating each individual pipe with a small Post-It.

 

 

And the exhausts are finished. I'm sure there are other, better ways to paint exhausts but this method is relatively simple and repeatable and yields decent results.

 

 

Here's a look at how the exhausts look mounted in the fuselage.

 

[Uncarina]

I don’t post much these days it seems, but John your work is a real gem to follow!

 

Cheers,  Tom

[LSP_Kevin]

Great work, John!

 

Kev

[IainM]

Spectacular work!!!!

[MikeMaben]

Super finish John !!!

[John Stambaugh]

Will be using your exhaust painting technique. Those pipes look great. 

Thanks, John 

[JayW]

Hi John - lots to comment on!  You have been busy.  I really like the treatment of the exhaust stacks.  I need to improve my own.  I wonder if the FW series of aircraft used stainless steel for their stacks.  The American aircraft I am familiar with did, which means or should mean no rust.  Other kinds of surface degradation, and/or heat effects, but not rust.  That is why I have resisted making my Corsair stacks rusty looking.  So I might just try to duplicate your process, and leave off the last step.

 

The propeller - wow what a giant improvement!  Love the magnet approach too.  Seen alot of that lately on other LSP builds (including my own).

 

I am intrigued by the look of the long nosed 190's.  They resemble radials and in-line engines all at once.  I had not realized til now that they merely have a round radiator in front, cooled similar to the way radial cylinders are cooled.  More than one way to skin a cat.

[jeroen_R90S]

4 hours ago, John Stambaugh said:

Will be using your exhaust painting technique. Those pipes look great. 

Thanks, John 

I'm going to try that too -they look great!

Well, so does the rest!

[HB252]

Thanks for share whit us your tricks about painting, I like It 

[Sasha As]

Great sequel!!!