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Can someone explain this weathering technique to me?


ScottsGT

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On 4/21/2022 at 10:43 AM, Archer Fine Transfers said:

 

Care to share your technique?

My primer is always MS1500 thinned at least 1 part MS to 3 parts MLT.

 

My paints for airbrushing are MRP, usually sprayed neat, sometimes thinned 1:1 with MLT if I want super thin paint.

 

Spray colour you want to show through the chips.

 

spray hairspray: I use Tresomme medium, sprayed through an airbrush; a couple of thin layers, rather than hosed.

 

Spray top layer of MRP - thin layers until desired opacity is achieved. This can be done pretty much straight after the HS ie time it takes you to clean your airbrush etc. I don’t have a specific time on the watch.

 

I usually chip anything from 30min to a day after. Chip early and it will behave more like an acrylic, leave it a few hours to a day and you will be able to get super small chips.

 

chipping is done with dipping a brush that I have cropped to make ‘stubbly’ in water and prodding / nudging the surface. I use magnification because it may start very small and you want to see it.

I also sometimes use a thinner ‘regular’ brush eg size 2, and also a fibre pencil - this can be useful to get it all going if leaving it a longer time, but be careful.

 

but if you want to *see it* go to YouTube, check out Will Pattison’s channel - he has a whole bunch of technique videos that - unlike Mike Rinaldi’s albeit excellent content do not take 3+ hours to watch lol.


I would also join the SMCG Facebook group - I learned more new techniques on there in a few months than I did from 10 years online back in the hobby; but you will have your sacred cows challenged and debunked eg gloss before decals, so you need an open mind.

 

hope that helps?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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On 4/29/2022 at 3:53 AM, nmayhew said:

spray hairspray: I use Tresomme medium, sprayed through an airbrush; a couple of thin layers, rather than hosed.

 

Thank you,

I'm pretty much doing the exact same thing except for the Tresomme brand HS. 

Time to hit the beauty supply store.

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On 4/27/2022 at 7:30 AM, quang said:

Hairspray is safer because if it doesn’t work for chipping, you can always have a use for it unless you’re living in a buddhist monastery.

As for marmite, you’ve got to have special, VERY special food habits! :P

I’d rather eat hairspray than that stuff! 

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23 minutes ago, Archer Fine Transfers said:

 

Do you put a clear coat over the color you want to show through?

Everything will be clear once you realize that hairspray is just organic glue (like gum arabic) dissolved in water.

 

The hairspray is applied on the first paint coat (ie. aluminum) , let dry (10 minutes) and the final paint coat (ie.camouflage) applied.

When the finished area is whetted, the water will dissolve the glue, release the final paint coat and reveal the base coat.

 

How well it will work depends on the following factors:

1- the type of hairspray. They come in different strengths (adhesive powers). The cheapest (#2) has the less gluing power and works best for chipping.
555-F25-FC-BDCA-4-D2-F-8-E9-B-E8-C9-CDC6


2- the type of paint. The base coat must be hard and sturdy. Best is acrylic lacquer ( MrColor, AK Real Color, Tamiya LP, Hataka Orange series,…)

For top coats, aqueous acrylics work best. You’ll have to put more scrubbing action for top lacquers but they work as well.

 

3- Delay time between coats. You’d have to test first because it depends on the type of hairspray. On the exemple below, I applied the spray 1 day before adding the final coat. The scrubbing came weeks after. I reckon it was a bit harder to scrub as if I’d done it right afterwards but it can be done.

 

4- No need for protective gloss between coats as long as your base is sturdy.

 

HTH

Cheers,

Quang

 

Here’s the wing root of my current P-40. Chipping just finished today.

C8-A8-B625-8-B10-4-F22-AC33-96-BC1-A5-CD


 


 

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1 hour ago, quang said:

4- No need for protective gloss between coats as long as your base is sturdy.

 

Thank you! I'm using the same paints and same technique as you, but I asked about the clear coat over the base color because I heard it suggested elsewhere. Just seemed like an extra layer of protection if your base coat is metallic and you go digging at it with a fiberglass pen.

Your results speak for themselves... outstanding!

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@Archer Fine Transfers (and anyone else)

so here is my most recent aircraft build - Neville Duke's P-40 - and a link directly to the post where i detail the chipping process

nothing mystic / magical and proof that anyone can do it!

hopefully when viewed in conjunction with my description earlier in the thread here it should all make sense

cheers

Nick

Edited by nmayhew
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31 minutes ago, quang said:

Great! Tell us how it turns out.

 

I'll be following your advice closely. First I have to get consistent results on a mule and then I'll apply what I learn on my next build. 

Stay tuned.

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  • 8 months later...
On 4/29/2022 at 8:53 AM, nmayhew said:

My primer is always MS1500 thinned at least 1 part MS to 3 parts MLT.

 

My paints for airbrushing are MRP, usually sprayed neat, sometimes thinned 1:1 with MLT if I want super thin paint.

 

Spray colour you want to show through the chips.

 

spray hairspray: I use Tresomme medium, sprayed through an airbrush; a couple of thin layers, rather than hosed.

 

Spray top layer of MRP - thin layers until desired opacity is achieved. This can be done pretty much straight after the HS ie time it takes you to clean your airbrush etc. I don’t have a specific time on the watch.

 

I usually chip anything from 30min to a day after. Chip early and it will behave more like an acrylic, leave it a few hours to a day and you will be able to get super small chips.

 

chipping is done with dipping a brush that I have cropped to make ‘stubbly’ in water and prodding / nudging the surface. I use magnification because it may start very small and you want to see it.

I also sometimes use a thinner ‘regular’ brush eg size 2, and also a fibre pencil - this can be useful to get it all going if leaving it a longer time, but be careful.

 

but if you want to *see it* go to YouTube, check out Will Pattison’s channel - he has a whole bunch of technique videos that - unlike Mike Rinaldi’s albeit excellent content do not take 3+ hours to watch lol.


I would also join the SMCG Facebook group - I learned more new techniques on there in a few months than I did from 10 years online back in the hobby; but you will have your sacred cows challenged and debunked eg gloss before decals, so you need an open mind.

 

hope that helps?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi nmayhew

Can I ask what process do you use to to get the hairspray from the can, do you then thin the hairspray when spraying through you airbrush.

Thanks

Stuart

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