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1:32nd scale RAF BE2c


sandbagger

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Hi all,
Here's the re-profiled fuselage rear decking panel.
This was done by sanding away the decking panel, the cutting a new panel shape from 0.2 mm thick plastic card.
That was glued in position then sanded with the flats of the fuselage stringers re-instated by scrapping.

 

Mike

 

deck1.jpg

 

deck2.jpg

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Hi all,
A few more areas of the model that anyone building it might want to be aware off.

1. The instructions have no call out for the parts, apart from the supplied photo-etch parts.
This could cause some confusion with the cockpit, as parts are supplied to make a trainer version.

2. The instruction give the impression that the lower wings butt up to the sides of the fuselage.
In face there should be a gap between the wings and fuselage, exposing the front and rear spars and attachments.
This is important as if the lower wings are not positioned correctly, the interplane struts to the upper wing will tilt inwards at the bottom, when they should be vertical.
I've added a brass rod through the fuselage for extra support and added tube spacers for the necessary gap between wings and fuselage.

 

spars2.jpg

 

spars3.jpg

 

spars4.jpg

 

spars5.jpg

 

3. The rigging diagram in the instructions fails to show the interconnecting aileron control wires between the upper and lower ailerons.

 

ailcontrol.jpg

 

Also only one drag wire is shown from the engine bearers to the upper wing, whereas there were two, one to the top of the forward cabane struts and a second to the top of the forward, inboard interplane struts.

 

anchorsdrag.jpg

 

fusrig8.jpg

 

4. The rigging diagram in the instructions shows only two bracing wires for the fuselage cabane struts, whereas there were actually four.
A wire was attached to the tops of the two rear cabane struts and also the forward cabane struts.
These wires were routed through openings at each side of the pilots decking panel and into the cockpit, where there were attached to the cockpit side frames.  

 

cabwires.jpg

 

cabwires2.jpg

 

5. The gravity fuel tank (behind the engine) and the main fuel tank (under the observers seat) were interconnected with a fuel transfer pipe.
A fuel supply pipe was also connected between the gravity tank and the engine.
That pipe won't be seen on the model, but the gravity to main tank pipe can be seen from the observers cockpit.
I added this pipe using flexible black tube.

 

fuelpipe.jpg

 

6. The 3D printed tail skid is intended to be butt glued to the rear, underside of the fuselage.
I felt, given the size and weight of the final model by prove to be too weak.
Therefore I reinforcred the centre strut of the tail skid using 0.5 mm diameter rod.

 

Apart from that, it's all going quite well ;)

 

Mike

Edited by sandbagger
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Hi all,
Another fix required.
The rigging diagrams in the kit instructions fail to show a single bracing wire fitted outboard from the bottom of the inboard front interplane struts.
This wire was routed diagonally up to the underside of the front spar of the upper wing, midway between the inboard and outboard interplane struts.

 

Mike

 

bracewing.jpg

 

wingbrace.jpg

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Hi all,
A few updates.
I've primed then masked off the wings, fuselage and other flight surfaces, then pre-shaded the internal structures.
This was over sprayed with white primer to 'knock back' the pre-shading.
The linen effect decals will be applied before the kit markings.
The fuselage nose was painted with 'Tamiya' Neutral Grey (XF53) and the cockpit decking panel and under fuselage with Dark Yellow (XF60), in preparation for applying wood effects.

 

Mike

 

masking2.jpg

 

masking3.jpg

 

wood1.jpg

 

wood2.jpg

 

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Hi all,
The Clear Doped Linen (CDL) decals have been applied on the fuselage, wings, ailerons, fin, tail plane's and elevators.
The 'LukGraph' supplied CDL decals supplied with the Premium kit are very much like those from 'Aviattic'.
They are quite strong and adhere well to the model surfaces.
The kit supplied marking decals were applied onto the CDL decals.
The Serial No.2635 had to be made from spare decals, as the kit does not have the markings for this particular aircraft.
The black stripe marking for No.13 Squadron was from the 'XtraDecal' black strip set (XPS1).

 

Now onto applying the wood effects to the fuselage,

 

Mike

 

decdone1.jpg

 

decdone2.jpg

 

decdone3.jpg

 

decdone4.jpg

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Hi Mike

great job with the preshding of the wings, only one question, since I will have to do a sopwith with the wings in bleached linen or in any case a white base, the underlying structure and especially the tie rods are so evident against the light from the bottom up? tnx in adv for the answer

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6 hours ago, spartacus2000 said:

Hi Mike

great job with the preshading of the wings, only one question, since I will have to do a sopwith with the wings in bleached linen or in any case a white base, the underlying structure and especially the tie rods are so evident against the light from the bottom up? tnx in adv for the answer

 

seethrough2.jpg

 

Hi Spartacus2000,

Clear Doped Linen (CDL) especially factory fresh, allowed daylight to penetrate through the lined covering from above. Therefore the roundel on the upper surface of the wing and the wings internal structure, such as ribs, tie bars and bracing wires, would show as faded outlines from the underside of the wings. From above the wing, little if anything would have been seen at the undersides as no daylight would be passing up from the from the ground. 'Wingnut Wings' has an guide to this on their website in their 'hints and tips' pages.

Aircraft with coloured dope finishes on the upper surfaces, for example PC10, PC12 or Lozenge etc, effectively blocked light penetration, so probably only the ribs tapes on the undersides of wings would be seen.

 

http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/hintsandtips

 

Mike

 

 

Edited by sandbagger
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Hi all,
Wood effect Applied using 'Windsor and Newton' Griffin Alkyd Raw Sienna.
Some shadowing applied to wings and fuselage using 'Tamiya' Smoke (X19).
Cockpit padding brush painted with 'AL Interactive' Brown Leather.
Nose number 1 airbrushed with mask cut on a 'Cricut' Air 2 cutter.

 

Now onto further weathering,

 

Mike

 

wood3.jpg

 

wood4.jpg

 

wood5.jpg

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Hi all,
Well it happens :doh:
I accidentally spilled a bottle of White Spirits over my modelling workspace and, unfortunately the model.
I tried to dab it off but it had already dissolved areas of the applied decals on all of the models parts.
As I had no CDL decal replacements and no wanting to purchase and wait for replacements, I decide to go to Plan B.
This required the removal of as much of the decal as possible, leaving some in place as weathering effect.
The fuselage took the main hit, but fortunately not inside the fuselage.
So I've stripped all of the decals (CDL, roundels and black stripes).
The black stripes were airbrushed and replacement roundels and 'lift here' decals were applied.
My plan is to apply 'Flory Models' Dark Dirt and Grime fine clay wash (which I normally apply anyway).
Hopefully the wash will compliment the residual CDL decal to give the model a well worn, war weary look.

 

We'll see,

 

Mike 

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