Jump to content

THE SHARK HAS LANDED! Curtiss Tomahawk 112sqn RAF


quang

Recommended Posts

Back to the paint shop.

Time was spent to reinforce contrast and adjust tonal balance. Mostly done with brush and oils. Always in the build-up mode.

The result after a few hours work.

98-B966-C6-8-AB6-49-C2-8-BA4-ADCB72-BDB4


DA85-E548-617-E-4456-ABB5-E0-D6294-D178-


First attempt at depicting the oil spill from the left side window (an idiosyncrasy of the early Hawks)
D4-D036-FE-4748-4530-AF31-AFEA864970-AB.


D4413416-8825-4075-B189-620-B11853-DC5.j


D080-EBC9-FF0-F-4391-A8-BA-DE57503-D46-F


The dentist’s view! :rolleyes:

07-C04-D41-62-E9-4-F96-910-B-BFEA26-C8-B


8-D77-CE32-68-D6-4-E57-9909-581-F72-FD93


8-CE0-E67-A-D965-41-D7-9-D54-6481-DCC5-B


B53-CF706-926-E-44-F0-8-E37-B9-C31-A5-E2


B47-BC206-C1-BB-4-FBF-A988-37-F7163-C84-


To be continued…

Edited by quang
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • quang changed the title to SHARK ATTACK! Curtiss Tomahawk 112sqn RAF
53 minutes ago, Tolga ULGUR said:

Did you use silver pencil on wingroot chipping?

It’s hairspray chipping. First time I tried it. I bought 3 mini-spray at 1€ apiece and tested.

AD294800-B830-482-E-A405-830-A92-DFF571.

 

They come in different ‘strengths’. I found the weakest variety (#2) works best for lacquer chipping. It also depends on the chip size you’re looking for. Well worth trying.

HTH

Q

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

53 minutes ago, Fanes said:

I really like the oil spills

In fact they anticipated it because there are 3 TINY holes in the glass at the bottom rim of the left side window which would allow the spill to flow out.

No no, I didn’t try to reproduce them B)

Cheers,

Quang

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, quang said:

It’s hairspray chipping. First time I tried it. I bought 3 mini-spray at 1€ apiece and tested.

AD294800-B830-482-E-A405-830-A92-DFF571.

 

They come in different ‘strengths’. I found the weakest variety (#2) works best for lacquer chipping. It also depends on the chip size you’re looking for. Well worth trying.

HTH

Q

 

 

Hımmm

I can start the test with my wife's rig too :rolleyes:

Let's be quiet. She doesn't have to know that

Thanks

Edited by Tolga ULGUR
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Tolga ULGUR said:

Hımmm

I can start the test with my wife's rig too :rolleyes:

Let's be quiet. She doesn't have to know that

Thanks

I can find some use with the ones I’m not using. Unfortunately I don’t have enough hair left :BANGHEAD2:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, quang said:

In fact they anticipated it because there are 3 TINY holes in the glass at the bottom rim of the left side window which would allow the spill to flow out.

No no, I didn’t try to reproduce them B)

Cheers,

Quang

 

 

similar to curtiss 75 (drawing), the bottom of the rear window frame on P40B/C and H81, had also nine drain 1/4" holes,  and 6" apart, but fluids drain through only some of the holes giving the impression of only three or four holes

 

drain_10.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cant believe that the wings and fuselage where painter before assembly!!! The camo matches up great and there are no seam, glue marks or anything :o

 

Since extra thin doesn't like painted surfaces what did you use to glue the wing on? How do you avoid seeping glue and marks on the paint? 

 

Your build looks amazing

Link to comment
Share on other sites

55 minutes ago, Neo said:

Cant believe that the wings and fuselage where painter before assembly!!! The camo matches up great and there are no seam, glue marks or anything :o

 

Since extra thin doesn't like painted surfaces what did you use to glue the wing on? How do you avoid seeping glue and marks on the paint? 

 

Your build looks amazing

My fellow modellers always make fun of me when I say that the first thing I do even before cutting off the sprues is to put a quick coat of Gunze Surfacer 1200 overall.

Many reasons to that:

1- I hate touching bare plastic 

2- the coat of primer covers the translucence of the styrene and reveals the true quality (and flaws) of the mouldings.

3- while protecting the styrene from one’s sweaty handling, the cellulose-based primer allows the styrene cement (thin and thick) to get through and take effect. Furthermore the styrene cement doesn’t have much effect on the primer and leaves no trace IF you leave it untouched, so lesser risk of seeping glue.


Another tip is HOW you apply the extra-thin glue. Don’t follow the seams with the application brush but touch just one spot on the seam and let the cement take its course.

One more thing: lately I re-discovered the humble TUBE CEMENT. It takes longer to harden and gives you more time to adjust, especially when you’re dealing with large assemblies like fuselage halves or wing's.
As a matter of fact, I rarely glue a large assembly in one go. I divide the long seam into smaller segments and do it step by step, segment after segment.

I never use clamps or rubber bands to hold the parts together. I do it with my fingers so that I could control the pressure between the parts.


<Cant believe that the wings and fuselage where painter before assembly!!!>
Give the credit to GWH engineering and moulding.
In fact the kit is designed as in the actual assembly line at the Buffalo plant where the aircraft was built in sections, each section finished, painted and crated and shipped to the front. Hence the mismatch between the camouflage patterns found on several contemporary photographs.

On the model, I did try to create such a mismatch on some areas like the rudder and elevators.

 

Thank you all for your interest,

Cheers,

Quang

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just one more thing before the Curtiss experts scold me.

 

A long-time IPMS friend gave me an OOP Barracudals sheet about the 112sqn Tomahawk.
While I have no use for it, I found the Curtiss logo on the propeller blade rather engaging while missing in the GWH boxing. I added them to my build but cannot prevent an uneasy feeling.

Until a while ago, I decided to check: there was NO Curtiss logo on the export H81s. So I quickly removed them.

 

SAVED BY THE BELL!

 

Before…

321838-FE-0-D2-E-4-A26-A108-12-D9244-BC9

 

 

After…
DAD956-B9-4939-41-C4-B4-F6-9-B1-BE5-A2-F

 

Cheers,

Quang

Edited by quang
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...