quang Posted May 14, 2022 Author Share Posted May 14, 2022 Thank you @Madmax for the kind words. Curiously this is the very first time in my modelling ‘career’ that I have patience enough to deal with weathering. All my other builds stopped short after the model is painted and decaled mostly because I spent so much time correcting and adding details that I got fed up at the end. In this case here with the GWH kit verging on perfection, I thought I’d push the envelop a bit further … and so far I like it very much! Thank you all for your interest, Cheers, Quang daveculp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waroff Posted May 14, 2022 Share Posted May 14, 2022 a small mistake, on H81/P40 the blade markings were stenciled in white on the blade and not yellow as later and the text is left justified only great job as I have rarely seen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted May 14, 2022 Author Share Posted May 14, 2022 (edited) 48 minutes ago, waroff said: a small mistake, on H81/P40 the blade markings were stenciled in white on the blade and not yellow as later and the text is left justified only great job as I have rarely seen I knew it. I just thought hoped you won’t Edited May 14, 2022 by quang mozart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaeone57 Posted May 14, 2022 Share Posted May 14, 2022 GWH seems to have done a great job on their kit and I can see you are enjoying it, Quang. Loving the paint work on your Tomahawk, very nicely done! Alfonso Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted May 15, 2022 Author Share Posted May 15, 2022 10 hours ago, Kaeone57 said: GWH seems to have done a great job on their kit and I can see you are enjoying it, Quang. Indeed Alfonso. I rarely had so much fun with a model kit and it’s NOT over yet! Some more progress with the EXHAUST STAINS Note that they come in 2 distinct types: 1- heat stains shown by paint discolouration next to the exhaust pipes 2- smoke trails which are generally subjected to propeller wash. Characteristically they are not the same on RH and LH sides. Furthermore on the early Hawks, they don’t coincide with the whitish heat stains. Note how the smoke trail on the LEFT side is pointing upwards … … while it’s going down on the RIGHT side. This effect is caused by the wind created by the propeller turning in one direction (prop wash). When one thinks ‘exhaust stains’, we automatically think ‘airbrush’. In fact it’s much easier to replicate with a paint brush because we have more control.. This is how I did it. This is my oils palette for the whole build. For the exhaust trails, I only used sepia, ochre and a bit of Payne’s Gray. Sepia and ochre are applied in tiny dots along the trail Blend with a flat soft brush in up-and-down strokes More blending with a softer brush Add more dots to deepen the effect The result Time to call it a day. Any questions, comments etc… Have a glorious Sunday, Cheers Quang Uncarina, MikeMaben, Paul in Napier and 20 others 22 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaro Posted May 15, 2022 Share Posted May 15, 2022 Love the final effect! Thanks for sharing the idea! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo Posted May 15, 2022 Share Posted May 15, 2022 Wow impressive, question, when your blending do you use thinners on your brush? Is yes what time and how wet? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted May 15, 2022 Author Share Posted May 15, 2022 56 minutes ago, Neo said: when your blending do you use thinners on your brush? Is yes what time and how wet? As you can see on the first picture, I put a dab of oil paint on a piece of paper, wait a few minutes for the extra oil to ooze out and it’s ready to use. It should have the consistency of melted butter. Use it like you would butter a slice of bread, with a spreading motion, The further you spread, the thinner and more transparent the oil paint will be. Drying time depends on the thickness of the paint coat. Thicker coats dry longer. For the exhaust stains, leave it overnight after which you can add another coat. As a rule thinner like turpentine will break down the molecular structure of the oil paint making it ‘weaker’ and desaturated. Use thinner only to wash your brushes after use. HTH Q Landrotten Highlander, John1 and Neo 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daywalker Posted May 15, 2022 Share Posted May 15, 2022 I appreciate your photos and description of the exhaust staining, I really like the effects you have achieved with your method. I will be trying this one out as I love using oils for weathering effects whenever possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John1 Posted May 15, 2022 Share Posted May 15, 2022 31 minutes ago, quang said: As you can see on the first picture, I put a dab of oil paint on a piece of paper, wait a few minutes for the extra oil to ooze out and it’s ready to use. It should have the consistency of melted butter. Use it like you would butter a slice of bread, with a spreading motion, The further you spread, the thinner and more transparent the oil paint will be. Drying time depends on the thickness of the paint coat. Thicker coats dry longer. For the exhaust stains, leave it overnight after which you can add another coat. As a rule thinner like turpentine will break down the molecular structure of the oil paint making it ‘weaker’ and desaturated. Use thinner only to wash your brushes after use. HTH Q Are there any concerns with the oil paint reacting with the base colors? Will this work with all paints? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted May 15, 2022 Author Share Posted May 15, 2022 38 minutes ago, John1 said: Are there any concerns with the oil paint reacting with the base colors? Will this work with all paints? No problem with water-base paints (Vallejo, Tamiya,…). I used oils over AK Real Color and Gunze Mr Color in my current build, so no concern whatsoever with lacquers. There can be some issue with enamels if you use THINNED oils because the turpentine can lift the enamel base. In any case, you can protect your base with an ever thin coat of gloss or matt varnish. Furthermore it will help you choose the adherence of your base support. Some prefer a matt base because it ‘grips’ the oils better. Others like a gloss base because they like their oils to flow. Myself for some reason, I never could get a real gloss coat. The best I can achieve is satin. So I guess I’m middle-ground 1 hour ago, Daywalker said: I appreciate your photos and description of the exhaust staining, I really like the effects you have achieved with your method. I will be trying this one out as I love using oils for weathering effects whenever possible. Glad I could help. Let us know how it turns out. Cheers, Quang John1 and Daywalker 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted May 15, 2022 Share Posted May 15, 2022 looking fabulous and that is some really helpful tips on staining - I have always struggled with it so will try this next time Peter quang 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Posted May 15, 2022 Share Posted May 15, 2022 Very effective weathering! Iain quang 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted May 15, 2022 Author Share Posted May 15, 2022 (edited) 20 minutes ago, MARU5137 said: he OCD in ME can't get over the way the Roundel gets "cut off" . that looks kinda "unfinished " but I KNOW its how they had it .. There’s always a modeller in us striving for perfection Edited May 15, 2022 by quang Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozart Posted May 16, 2022 Share Posted May 16, 2022 Magic at the hands of the Maestro! This thread should be pinned as a guide to realistic, effective and thoughtful weathering techniques. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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