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Farewell Humbrol ...


MikeMaben

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Found in the latest SpotModel newsletter.

MEKO
Until this morning we didn't know what "MEKO" meant, but in this newsletter we are going to explain it to you. There is a chemical substance called "BUTANONE OXIME" (Methyl Ethyl Ketoxime, MEKO; CAS 96-29-7) which is known in the chemical world as "MEKO".
The classification on the danger of this product was "category 2 carcinogen H351 - Suspected of causing cancer" until now, but since Tuesday March 1st, according to the "18th ATP to CLP Regulation (EC No 1272/2008)", it has now been classified as "category 1B carcinogen H350 - May cause cancer" hence, following European regulations, products containing more than 0.1% of "MEKO" become very dangerous for health.
Unfortunately for us modellers, Humbrol's Enamel paints are affected by this regulation, and this implies that we are forced to stop selling them :(((
At SpotModel we are going to start removing their products from our shelves and proceed with their proper destruction. Goodbye to our beloved Humbrol Enamel paints.

:crying:

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As well as their dominance of model hobby paints, in the UK at least, Humbrol also supply 'authentic' colours to the UK full sized warbirds and restorations market.

 

One of my go-to formulations is still Humbrol enamel thinned with white spirit, add gloss polyurethane varnish then thinned again with cellulose thinners

I copied the formula from a Peter Cooke Scale Models article where he discussed his initial LSP the 1/24 Spitfire XIV way back in the '70s, and it still works well.

The only difference is these days I know to wear a mask.

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What a Chicken Little world we live in.  Today will find me working on the seat for yet another Scooter and I think I will break out the Humbrol to finish the job (after stirring for a couple of hours) in honor of a fine and long-lived product.  Nanny states and Karen’s world-wide be damned.

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I believe most model paint is going to possibly have chemical compounds you do not want to breath. For sure acrylic lacquers do. Use of a respirator is very important even if a spray booth is in use. 
 

Model cement is not much better. Read the label of Tamiya super thin. There are a few listed chemicals that are not healthy. 
 

Paul

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1 hour ago, Paul2660 said:

I believe most model paint is going to possibly have chemical compounds you do not want to breath. For sure acrylic lacquers do. Use of a respirator is very important even if a spray booth is in use. 
 

Model cement is not much better. Read the label of Tamiya super thin. There are a few listed chemicals that are not healthy. 
 

Paul

Keep the labels on these Japanese paints and cements in Japanese and we are safe for a while. :P

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18 hours ago, Neo said:

Shame, this paint is by far the best to brush paint, i switched to ak and mrp to airbrush, but both are terrible to brush in comparison. I do have allot of spares so i should be good for a while

I use Vallejo model air for air brush work and details (e.g., knobs, buttons and lights).  I gave up on larger areas.  Oil paint is the closest thing I use for brush painting. But I see what you mean. 

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I like Citadel acrylics for detail brush painting. I've had pots that have been open and in use for 15+ years and still work fine without so much as a crust around the neck of the pot.

Some colours like red, white and yellow have only had minute cocktail stick tip amounts of paint used for dotting in cockpit switches and the like.

It also sprays well as I discovered when I painted a larger Zelda figurine for my daughter.

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