More questions about using MRP lacquers.

[ScottsGT]

More I read on the users of MRP, the more I like it.  But I'm curious about washes and weathering and decals.  Lets say I have a painted model.  I want to apply the decals over the flat finish.  At this point do I jump back to my old Future techniques for a gloss coat and then an acrylic dull coat?  Or does MRP offer these?  If so, what can you use for a wash or panel line accentuation where in the past I would use paint thinned with white mineral of spirits over the acrylic?

I feel like a noob just getting back in the hobby again!

[Woody V]

Those are a lot of good questions!

As for gloss, stick to lacquer. You'll find yourself using a LOT of it. I'm not that familiar with what MRP offers in clears but any lacquer like Mr. Color, Tamiya or AK Real Colors will work just fine. Mix and match any lacquer brand, basically it's the same chemistry.

 

As for decals, gloss coat with lacquer first and then overcoat with flat or satin lacquer clear, your choice.

 

As for panel lines and washes continue with paint thinned with mineral spirits. These will have no affect on lacquer paints including clears.

 

My general advice would be to bin all of your non-lacquer paints and join the lacquer revolution.

 

BTW, "acrylic" has nothing to do with water based. The term acrylic is universal and just describes the type of binder used in paints. 

 

Good luck!

Edited February 21, 2022 by Archer Fine Transfers

[nmayhew]

You do not need to apply a gloss coat - and certainly not some floor polish - on your kit before applying decals.

 

MRP is pretty robust, especially if applied over say a MS1500 primer, but if you want to seal or protect a paint job MRP’s own clears are excellent 

 

 

[ivanmoe]

10 hours ago, ScottsGT said:

[...]what can you use for a wash or panel line accentuation where in the past I would use paint thinned with white mineral of spirits over the acrylic?[...]

 

 

You can do the same sort of thing over the MRP.

 

Something like "Tamiya Accent Colors" aren't gonna faze it, and neither will mineral spirits that you use to clean the accents up. What you likely don't want to do is spray clear lacquers, matte or gloss, over a lot of the effects that you may have applied, pigments, washes and such. There's also a school of thought which counsels against spraying some lacquers over decals, as the hotter varieties are rumored to eat them.

 

Wanna feel good about this? Buy yourself a cheapo small or medium scale model and practice a bit. Drag out your compressor, airbrush and the MRP, and go to town. Remember to be careful spraying lacquers over water-based acrylics and oil-based enamels. I bet you'll like the results, and it'll really build your confidence in the technology.

[themongoose]

I use the competitive brand in the US, MCW acrylic lacquer. They are gloss colors out of the bottle. Go right from painting to decaling, no in between steps. When done clear with flat semigloss or gloss as you like. MCW offers all 3 but as stated above you can use almost any at this point. I’ve used future over it as well, no problem. It becomes what you like best.

[BarryWilliams]

On 2/21/2022 at 3:03 PM, ScottsGT said:

More I read on the users of MRP, the more I like it.  But I'm curious about washes and weathering and decals.  Lets say I have a painted model.  I want to apply the decals over the flat finish.  At this point do I jump back to my old Future techniques for a gloss coat and then an acrylic dull coat?  Or does MRP offer these?  If so, what can you use for a wash or panel line accentuation where in the past I would use paint thinned with white mineral of spirits over the acrylic?

I feel like a noob just getting back in the hobby again!

 First on most builds I no longer apply a gloss coat before decals.  MRP lacquers mostly provide quite a glossy coat, ideal for decals and, indeed panel washes.   I do make sure the MRP has had plenty of time to cure, a couple of hours to play safe. 
 

For varnishes MRP provide excellent lacquer varnishes that spray as well as their paints.  There are four that I use, gloss, semi-gloss, semi-matt and matt. 
 

One tip though, when using varnishes be careful to apply with many mist coats, not wet coats.  There is a risk that they could re-activate the underlying paint and damage the finish exposing perhaps too much of any primer.
 

One further tip with MRP. I your paint job looks a little matt, perhaps because of the paint drying before hitting the surface then just spray a mist coat, or two, of Mr Levelling Thinner.  It reactivates the paint giving a beautiful finish.  I, in fact, do this as a matter of course as part of my airbrush cleaning routine. 
 

[Rockie Yarwood]

Thank you all for your replies to ScottsGT's questions. I have just invested in a supply of MRP paints and will take your advice to heart as I learn to use them.

 

Cheers,  Rockie

[Smokeyforgothispassword]

On 2/22/2022 at 3:12 AM, Archer Fine Transfers said:

 

My general advice would be to bin all of your non-lacquer paints and join the lacquer revolution.

 

 

I agree that for airbrushing lacquers are the go, but for brush painting acrylics and enamels have their place.

[ScottsGT]

Great stuff guys.  Keep it coming!   As far as tossing all my old stuff, I’m sure eventually I will over time.  Hopefully I can plan ahead on projects and restock as needed.  But I don’t want to hold up a project for an out of stock color for a tiny widget that needs detailed.  
I’ve  spent the past couple days building my paint booth and getting ready to size up my new table in the morning and cut the 4x8 ply down to the final size.  

[Woody V]

10 hours ago, Smokeyforgothispassword said:

I agree that for airbrushing lacquers are the go, but for brush painting acrylics and enamels have their place.

Good point and I agree, the right tool for the job and all that. 

[MikeMaben]

I use MRP acrylics for brush painting as they match the MRP aclacs nicely.

I use them for touch ups and clear parts as they remove with 91% alcohol

while alcohol and thinners on clear parts can etch the surface.

[denders]

I'll drag the MRP questions up again.

 

Anyone use the MRP Fine Surface Primer - Gray?

 

[mozart]

5 hours ago, denders said:

I'll drag the MRP questions up again.

 

Anyone use the MRP Fine Surface Primer - Gray?

 

Yep, white and grey, both very smooth and spray just as easy as the lacquers. 

[BarryWilliams]

I only use MRP lacquers through the airbrush including the primers. Mostly I black base, using the Black primer but the other colours can sometimes be useful as well. 
 

The sand primer is a good base for yellows and helps coverage enormously.  The Red primer likewise for the reds, the white also.  The silver primer is great as a base for chipping. The primer I don’t use much of is the grey. 

[Alex]

On 2/24/2022 at 2:26 PM, BarryWilliams said:

 

For varnishes MRP provide excellent lacquer varnishes that spray as well as their paints.  There are four that I use, gloss, semi-gloss, semi-matt and matt. 

 

I had a bunch of trouble with a bottle of MRP matte varnish.  The solid component (fine suspended powder that creates the flatness of the finish) would settle out extremely rapidly and was an absolute bear to resuspend.  I would have to put the bottle on my paint shaker for an hour every time I wanted to use it.  I ultimately ended up tossing it and sticking with Mr. Color clear matte.  Did I just get a bad bottle of MRP?