JayW Posted April 14, 2022 Share Posted April 14, 2022 Yessir Patrick - you are clearly another one of those masters of micro-modeling! Well done. patricksparks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted April 14, 2022 Share Posted April 14, 2022 been meaning to drop in for weeks now and say how impressed I am Patrick, you are doing an incredible job here and for me it is like reliving my P51C build a big difference is I had the luxury of PE to make up loads of bits and you are just turning them out by hand which is waaay harder. The skinning & details look magnificent and I tell you this, once you start building using in metal you never go back... wonderful to watch Peter JayW and patricksparks 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted April 14, 2022 Share Posted April 14, 2022 Fantastic Patrick! Kev patricksparks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patricksparks Posted April 20, 2022 Author Share Posted April 20, 2022 Finally totally finished the left side console, the last item was the bomb release control at the front end of the console just in front of the instrument panel, also added the throttle push rods... I started working on the right side of the cockpit, I didn't realize how many variations of equipment there are on B/C model Mustangs, I kept finding war time photos from manuals and factory images, many options...Anytime different radio equipment was installed it seems that different modules mounted on the right side wall... The large black panel with the toggle switches on it is similar on many ,but not always exactly the same layout... I took off today from the right wall and built the floor, Steve at "Model Monkey" was nice enough to enlarge his 3D printed 1:24 scale P-51 rudder pedals into 1:18 scale, they look great. I added the rudder cable and mounts with springs to the lower outside corners of the pedals, also I added springs to the inside sides of the pedals as I saw them on a photo of a full size restoration, I don't know if they will be visible once the center console is added though... I added birch veneer to the floor the same as "AIRSCALE" did on his "LOPE'S HOPE" , I brushed some clear lacquer on it and then some water based black with a brush and let it start drying and "stippled" it with a stiff brush to create some texture to look like anti-slip coating and then used a coarse sanding stick to "wear" it some, added some photo-etched screw heads into the panels... The rudder cable on the left side is cut off short as the cable on the real aircraft runs through/under the left console body... rafju, JolleyRoger, Sasha As and 17 others 20 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayW Posted April 20, 2022 Share Posted April 20, 2022 (edited) Patrick - I am sooo jealous. Such delicious detail. I find that every time I sidle up to the modeling table these days, before long I have adorned my face with high magnification googles and intense lighting. Subjecting myself to ridicule and ribbing from my wife at times, if she comes in to interrupt me. No doubt, unless your eyes are super-human, you do this too? However, I can only hope to get my detailing as pure and clean as yours (Peter C being the benchmark on which we all aspire to). On my old D-model (Miss Velma) my rudder pedals (made from scratch and nowhere near as nice as yours) are quite invisible under the IP, more so than some other types (the Corsair peddles are more visible). Although I love your peddles (good to know ModelMonkey will work with us 1/18 modelers), they are going to be unseen. BTW - those springs are terrific! Where did you get them, or if you made them, how did you do it? When I make my springs (the Corsair has them too, plus the tank jettison mechanism and the landing gear folding linkage), I have great trouble with the ends, not the coils. A word about radio equipment - ETO Mustangs did not use the Detrola antenna system. Therefore, if you are doing a ETO Mustang, you do not have to worry about the large floor mounted bracket, the large radio box, and importantly the long aerial wire extending to the tail. If you knew already, cool. If not, many can't believe it. But check it out - it is true. Oh, and the nuts around the windshield frame - very nice touch, and convincing. What are you using for tiny nuts and bolts? I use "Meng Nuts" with only satisfactory results (not outstanding). But they are not too costly, and not too time consuming, and more accurate than cutting off hex stock or cutting hex patterns from plastic sheet. Edited April 20, 2022 by JayW patricksparks and Troy Molitor 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Molitor Posted April 20, 2022 Share Posted April 20, 2022 Simply wow! Love the -51B. Looking forward to the painting process. Wings also. patricksparks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted April 20, 2022 Share Posted April 20, 2022 Oh wow! Another x- large scale masterpiece in the works! I really admire the intense research and custom fabrication that goes into these 1/18 scale builds. All of the builds by Peter, Jay and you are not only great entertainment in and of themselves but are usually fantastic resources. Those foot pedals are amazing! patricksparks and Troy Molitor 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brahman104 Posted April 20, 2022 Share Posted April 20, 2022 Those springs are incredible Pat! Craig patricksparks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patricksparks Posted April 20, 2022 Author Share Posted April 20, 2022 7 hours ago, JayW said: Patrick - I am sooo jealous. Such delicious detail. I find that every time I sidle up to the modeling table these days, before long I have adorned my face with high magnification googles and intense lighting. Subjecting myself to ridicule and ribbing from my wife at times, if she comes in to interrupt me. No doubt, unless your eyes are super-human, you do this too? However, I can only hope to get my detailing as pure and clean as yours (Peter C being the benchmark on which we all aspire to). On my old D-model (Miss Velma) my rudder pedals (made from scratch and nowhere near as nice as yours) are quite invisible under the IP, more so than some other types (the Corsair peddles are more visible). Although I love your peddles (good to know ModelMonkey will work with us 1/18 modelers), they are going to be unseen. BTW - those springs are terrific! Where did you get them, or if you made them, how did you do it? When I make my springs (the Corsair has them too, plus the tank jettison mechanism and the landing gear folding linkage), I have great trouble with the ends, not the coils. A word about radio equipment - ETO Mustangs did not use the Detrola antenna system. Therefore, if you are doing a ETO Mustang, you do not have to worry about the large floor mounted bracket, the large radio box, and importantly the long aerial wire extending to the tail. If you knew already, cool. If not, many can't believe it. But check it out - it is true. Oh, and the nuts around the windshield frame - very nice touch, and convincing. What are you using for tiny nuts and bolts? I use "Meng Nuts" with only satisfactory results (not outstanding). But they are not too costly, and not too time consuming, and more accurate than cutting off hex stock or cutting hex patterns from plastic sheet. Thank you Jay !!! I too am always wearing the 2.5 "cheaters" along with the "Optiviser" head set along with as all the lights on....Your work is truly great looking !!! The springs I made, they are soft electrical wire, the way I make them is I decide the diameter and use an appropriate size drill or a piece of steel rod, because they very small diameter I put the drill into a pin vise backwards so that the smooth shank is sticking out, the pin vise I use doesn't have a knob on the handle it's straight, I put the pin vise in my cordless drill, set it to low speed. I insert the end of the small electrical wire(longer length of wire is easier to use) between the gap of the pin vise jaws and wrap it around the drill shank once or twice, I then hold the wire between my thumb and fore finger tightly with my fingers right up against the drill shank and slowly start the drill turning letting the wire slip under tension onto the drill shank, pulling slightly backwards to keep the coils tight together. I leave the finished coil on the shank and make adjustment if I want the coils more open and with the soft wire if you spread it too much, you can push them back closer together. The ends are another story, you need either really good strong tweezers or miniature needle nose pliers to manipulate the ends + PATIENCE + MAGNIFICATION!!! Nuts are "Meng" as well... Thank you for the radio information !!! Pat JayW, TAG and Greg W 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted April 20, 2022 Share Posted April 20, 2022 Awesome cockpit- and those pedals look real! This model should look really special when finished. Cheers, Chuck patricksparks and Troy Molitor 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patricksparks Posted May 5, 2022 Author Share Posted May 5, 2022 (edited) A little bit of progress, I was in the Caribbean for a week for R&R, came back to eye doctor appointment, doctor appointment and dentist appointment..... Pretty cool at the dentist though, before I left for vacation the dentist needed to make a new onlay for one of my teeth that had fallen off, for the first time since I've been going to my dentist he did a 3D scan of my teeth to make the new onlay, when I got back there they showed me the 3D model of my teeth, awesome !!! they said I could keep it if I wanted, of course I said yes!!! they thought I was crazy, I told them it was like getting the toy from the "Happy Meal" at McDonalds !!! too cool !!! Anyway I have been working on the cockpit seat armor, I installed it and the realized that I hadn't installed the cockpit heater ducts that are on both sides of the armor, so out came the armor and the ducts were installed... I purchased a 1:18 scale 3D printed seat from "Model Monkey" really nice part, I had to modify it as the B/C model Mustangs have longer vertical seat rails on them than the "D" model, so I carefully cut off the rails and springs that are printed on the seat and replaced them with rod and home made spring details, I added seat adjustment levers as well. I made the seat cushion from sculpy and made the decals on my inkjet printer ... Pat Edited May 6, 2022 by patricksparks adameliclem, Fanes, TAG and 13 others 16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrotten Highlander Posted May 6, 2022 Share Posted May 6, 2022 (edited) Toothfairy THE GREAT RED DRAAAAAGON Great work on the aircraft model, though... Edited May 6, 2022 by Landrotten Highlander patricksparks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayW Posted May 6, 2022 Share Posted May 6, 2022 On 5/5/2022 at 4:08 PM, patricksparks said: I made the seat cushion from sculpy and made the decals on my inkjet printer ... You are a wizard. Shrink Ray modeling! Questions, what decal paper do you use? What settings do you set the printer at? And what do you use for the military stencil font? patricksparks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted May 6, 2022 Share Posted May 6, 2022 All you need now is a hinge for dem choppahs! Lots of really good stuff going on here. Sincerely, Mark patricksparks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patricksparks Posted May 7, 2022 Author Share Posted May 7, 2022 13 hours ago, dodgem37 said: All you need now is a hinge for dem choppahs! Lots of really good stuff going on here. Sincerely, Mark theys gotta hinge !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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