patricksparks Posted March 26, 2022 Author Share Posted March 26, 2022 44 minutes ago, JayW said: OK got a little more time. I await your work on the smiley face chin intake. When you get to it, can you show some of the steps in shaping it, burnishing, etc? Also, can you tell me how you made such a nice mold for the windshield? It looks perfect. And you may find it humorous to see what I have in the queue once I finish the Corsair (sometime within the next decade hopefully): I think it will stay a D-model. I will be following your build with great interest. Hi Jay, been following your Corsair build, it is coming out awesome !!! The chin scoop shape on the 21st Century mustang looks pretty good to me, the part is actually molded seperate from the fuselage. The real P-51's scoop is an aluminum casting, not sheet metal, so what I did was removed the scoop which I think wasn't even glued to the model, it is trapped between the fuselage halves. I sanded the fuselage areas directly behind the scoop slightly to make the area just a bit shy of the scoop's size to allow the .005 aluminum to live behind the molded scoop part and make a nice butt joint between the two, it was a pleasant suprise to find that the scoop was a seperate part, it makes life a bit more easy... The pattern for the windshield is made from bass wood, I layed out the side profile cut out the shape and the layed out the cross section shape on the large back end of the block and started carving, then alot of dremmel drum sanding and hand sanding... One thing I found while applying the aluminum skin was that I have both hardend aluminum and annealed, I find that the pre-annealed is a bit of a pain to cut where as the harded material is simply score and break, what I started doing for panels that have compoud curves is to make a tape(masking tape) template of the area on the model and then apply it to the hardened aluminum stock score and break it then over my gas cooking stove I hold the part with a pair of needle nose pliers and quickly anneal the part over the flame, I have been finding this easier than trying cut annealed material on the model next to other installed panels. Also I haven't been thinning my contact cement and I have found that the annealed material shows the brush marks of the cement which in turn needs to be sanded out of the aluminum, so out of curiosity one day I applied some cement and decided to swipe my finger over the still wet cement and sure enough it was smooth as glass, you have do this as soon as you put the cement down, no waiting... Looking forward to the progress on the Corsair and also this new P-51 !!! JayW 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayW Posted March 26, 2022 Share Posted March 26, 2022 1 hour ago, patricksparks said: Also I haven't been thinning my contact cement and I have found that the annealed material.... I was going to ask you what you are using for contact cement. And, were you to thin it, what would you use. I currently use DAP Weldwood, and as long as the can is fairly new, it seems thin enough. Some of my panels were done with annealed material, and I didn't see the brush marks. Hmmm. I have tried to thin it with a couple of solutions, and nothing seems to work right. I also have not found the right combination for a cleanup solvent. Could be the thinner and clean-up solvents are one and the same. I just don't know. So I am using up cheap brushes, because the mineral spirits I am using for clean-up just doesn't clean very well. I also have a can of general purpose evo-stik. That is what Peter uses. There is a evo-stik thinner too, but I cannot find it in the US. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patricksparks Posted March 27, 2022 Author Share Posted March 27, 2022 15 hours ago, JayW said: I was going to ask you what you are using for contact cement. And, were you to thin it, what would you use. I currently use DAP Weldwood, and as long as the can is fairly new, it seems thin enough. Some of my panels were done with annealed material, and I didn't see the brush marks. Hmmm. I have tried to thin it with a couple of solutions, and nothing seems to work right. I also have not found the right combination for a cleanup solvent. Could be the thinner and clean-up solvents are one and the same. I just don't know. So I am using up cheap brushes, because the mineral spirits I am using for clean-up just doesn't clean very well. I also have a can of general purpose evo-stik. That is what Peter uses. There is a evo-stik thinner too, but I cannot find it in the US. I have been using Weldwood as well, I clean up the glue with lacquer thinner, takes the glue right off, as the 21st century model is made of ABS the lacquer thinner attacks it a little bit but nothing to worry about when covering it up with aluminum, it is not as prone to it as styrene is, also I'll use Q-tips or a paper towl wrapped around my finger tip, just have to be careful if you are working around painted or detailed areas. As for thinning the contact cement I read somewhere that Toluene is supposed to work, I haven't tried it yet because my heardware store only has gallons and I don't feel like keeping that much around.. I have been changing -up how much cement I'm putting down, I have been taking alot more of the cement off of the brush when taking it out of the container, alot less seems to go a long way... I also purchased a bunch of throw away acid brushes, I got them off ebay, $9 for 25 with shipping. Pat JayW and D.B. Andrus 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patricksparks Posted April 3, 2022 Author Share Posted April 3, 2022 A HUGE shoutout of thanks to Peter a.k.a. "AIRSCALE", not only for his inspiring builds , he has also sent me some of his custom printed cockpit placard decals that were made for his P-51 "Lopes Hope" build !!! The decals are beautiful and such a great help to my build !!! THANK YOU AGAIN !!! I wanted to post this photo of the radiator control box located on the left side cockpit wall to show the detail of Peter's decals, I made the box from styrene,painted it added switches and applied the placard decals, the box is only about a 1/4"-6mm wide... Here are some views of the cockpit walls with some placard decals in place, the flare pistol port is a 3D printed part from "MODEL MONKEY"... I finished detailing the inside of the windshield frame and the instrument panel shroud , put in the clear windshield panels and started to put the aluminum around it... I finally got around to finish covering the radiator intake and bottom of the areas behind it... JayW, dodgem37, LSP_Kevin and 17 others 20 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brahman104 Posted April 4, 2022 Share Posted April 4, 2022 Great job on the intake fairing Pat! There's some nasty curves in that piece. Craig patricksparks and JayW 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeA Posted April 4, 2022 Share Posted April 4, 2022 That intake fairing beggars belief! Well done!! Certainly a complex shape to wrap in aluminium. Mike patricksparks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted April 5, 2022 Share Posted April 5, 2022 On 3/27/2022 at 10:24 AM, patricksparks said: I have been using Weldwood as well, I clean up the glue with lacquer thinner, takes the glue right off, as the 21st century model is made of ABS the lacquer thinner attacks it a little bit but nothing to worry about when covering it up with aluminum, it is not as prone to it as styrene is, also I'll use Q-tips or a paper towl wrapped around my finger tip, just have to be careful if you are working around painted or detailed areas. As for thinning the contact cement I read somewhere that Toluene is supposed to work, I haven't tried it yet because my heardware store only has gallons and I don't feel like keeping that much around.. I have been changing -up how much cement I'm putting down, I have been taking alot more of the cement off of the brush when taking it out of the container, alot less seems to go a long way... I also purchased a bunch of throw away acid brushes, I got them off ebay, $9 for 25 with shipping. Pat Xylene/Xylol is the only substance that will thin Weld Wood. I've tried other solvents but none worked. HTH patricksparks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayW Posted April 5, 2022 Share Posted April 5, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, Ironwing said: Xylene/Xylol is the only substance that will thin Weld Wood. I've tried other solvents but none worked. HTH All ears Geoff. Is there a brand name for this stuff? Where can it be had? BTW - I forgot what I used in teh past, but one of the solvents thinned it down just fine, but also ruined it's adhesive properties! Edited April 5, 2022 by JayW patricksparks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sasha As Posted April 5, 2022 Share Posted April 5, 2022 Incredible work!!! patricksparks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayW Posted April 5, 2022 Share Posted April 5, 2022 On 4/3/2022 at 7:18 PM, brahman104 said: Great job on the intake fairing Pat! There's some nasty curves in that piece. You can say that again! I'd like to hear/see a blow-by-blow. I need to do some of this! patricksparks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patricksparks Posted April 5, 2022 Author Share Posted April 5, 2022 1 hour ago, JayW said: You can say that again! I'd like to hear/see a blow-by-blow. I need to do some of this! Hi Jay, thank you !!! feel free to message me with questions, I'd be glad to help, like yourself I'm in the "Poke and Hope" stage still, it's a learning curve for sure, but it is such a fascinating departure from straight styrene modeling, I have really enjoyed it (so far...) Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patricksparks Posted April 6, 2022 Author Share Posted April 6, 2022 On 4/4/2022 at 8:36 PM, Ironwing said: Xylene/Xylol is the only substance that will thin Weld Wood. I've tried other solvents but none worked. HTH Thank you for the information for thinner , very helpful for sure !!! How are your metal covered projects doing? haven't seen any updates lately, you do really great work !!! Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Molitor Posted April 6, 2022 Share Posted April 6, 2022 I wish your awesome efforts were a conversion kit for purchase. Such a cool subject having a large scale -51B. One of my favorites this year for sure. Thanks for sharing your efforts with us. patricksparks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Barry Posted April 8, 2022 Share Posted April 8, 2022 This skinning looks so cool, I went and bought one of these planes today! It might even get my attention before the Bearcat just to practice my metal foil. It was a good price on Ebay ($140 new in box) where it seems like most are listing at $200 (and more!). I got "Lou IV" , a plane that has been a favorite of mine since I had a book on ww2 fighters when I was 5! JayW and patricksparks 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayW Posted April 9, 2022 Share Posted April 9, 2022 5 hours ago, Jim Barry said: I got "Lou IV" , a plane that has been a favorite of mine since I had a book on ww2 fighters when I was 5! Well shoot! Guess I can't do that one. You are going to have to take away that fin strake you know! patricksparks and Jim Barry 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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