Jump to content

1/18 Curtiss P40C


Recommended Posts

thank you kind gentlemen :)


On 3/7/2023 at 2:32 AM, Tony C said:

Absolutely stunning…


Can I ask what paint you used for the leather headrest or did you mix your own?



Hi Tony, of course - it's XF68 Nato Brown, dusted with the secret sauce which is a MIG pigment - the label has come off but I think it was called volcanic sand..



On 3/8/2023 at 5:05 PM, hurribomber said:

A masterpice of 3-D printing!!

Is the strut of the undercarriage leg spring loaded?



Hell no! I couldn't dream of actually making stuff work - it's hard enough to just make it look the same :)


so... part three of the transparencies - with two done without issue, this canopy hood surely would be the screw up..


..started by steaming & draping some PETG over a form - the shape is constant so that made it a bit easier, then from drawings determined the shape..


..also started making framing from litho..




..spent time scoring the middle of the frames onto the hood.. you might just be able to see it..




..started with the bottoms and the ends..




..and then it happened - the inevitable...


as I was finishing up for the night, I went to wipe some fingerprints off, and they wouldn't move... I tried CA debonder and acrylic thinner, both of which seemed to leave no mark but these were not shifting - I even tried polywatch which is for polishing scarred watch faces but no luck...




..I still don't know what happened, but it meant the part was scrap and time to start again..


..I ordered some latex finger cots, but they were a few days away so I experimented by cutting the film from the PETG where the frames were and then CAing parts to it... it seemed if a brand new blade was used i could splash about CA with no weeping or damage to the glass...




..so with that, I made a new one and cut everywhere I had to attach litho..


..as long as tape wasn't used, or I did anything to lift the edges this should work..




..then spent a day adding the frames inside & out - there must be 50 parts to it...








..the interior was harder and included the emergency release handle..




..then I primed & painted it with the blue masks in place..


..I can tell you it was a twitchy moment pulling the blue stuff off, but thankfully it worked really well..
















..still more to do, including the lower fairings but I am really glad thats all over...



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Love it.

Especially as I'm deep in the midst of my own trials and tribulations with clear bits on the B-24. A tip of the proverbial hat to you for making it look effortless, even when we know otherwise.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awesome!  No surprise there, and an interesting study into the differences between the cross braces from the port side to starboard side of the canopy.  The port side has a hinge and according to some reference pics I found of other P-40's, there should be a release handle at the base of the canopy on this side, usually with a stencil saying, "EMERGENCY RELEASE PULL HANDLE OUT THEN AFT", presumably to open the canopy from the outside.  For some reason your exact subject doesn't have this handle, so your rendering is perfectly accurate (no surprise there again).  Is this just a restoration omission or was there another reason?




Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I know the feeling of scrapping a part after alot of heart and soul (and time) has been put into it.  For me, the feeling of aggravation continues right into the fabrication of the replacement, as I experience deja vu repeatedly.  But once done, we are glad we did it.


That canopy reminds me of the Lope's Hope canopy, with all the meticulous attention to small details.  It looks shrink ray.  Will it match the windshield contour well?   Or will you just leave it open?  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Congratulations Peter!!! What an ultra nerve wracking episode that I'm very glad had a successful outcome. Great idea to leave the original blue shrink wrap on (very much the 1:1 way as well!) How did you glue the litho frames to the transperency? Was it CA or did you use contact cement? I'm assuming CA so it would remove the chance of the thinner melting the plastic?


In any case, what an incredible result!



Link to comment
Share on other sites

I found this thread a few days ago and have just caught up. This is truly a masterclass in model-making of the highest order. I cannot wait to see it through to completion. :o:clap2:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Create New...