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1/18 Curtiss P40C - Finished :)


airscale

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43 minutes ago, Rainer Hoffmann said:

You mentioned dry transfers for the stencils. Do you have a source for custom made dry transfers? And if so, are they reasonably priced?

 

Cheers

Rainer

 

Hi Rainer - I use 4D modelshop - last time was in 2020 when it was £60 for an A5 custom sheet in one colour from my artwork

 

They were great, really helpful and good quality transfers

 

All the best

Peter

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11 hours ago, Tony C said:

Good looking prop blades, but I do have a question!

 

I'm not sure how long it took to make the master blade but would it have been quicker/easier/better, to make 3 ‘master’ blades, rather than making 1 the casting 3 in resin and then having to rework them, not that I’m knocking your work, Oh Masterly One!

 

thats a great question Tony as yes, the castings need probably more rework than the master, plus the RTV takes 24hrs to set for each half of the mould so it is a long drawn out process..

 

However, the reason I cast them is to make sure they are consistent - each blade is exactly like each other - I think if I made each one, there would be subtle differences between them

 

Peter

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On 2/19/2023 at 11:43 AM, airscale said:

...happened upon this scheme when the Planes of fame F8F took it's first flight - a bare metal Bearcat..

 

 

 

..it's got me thinking.. :)

 

Bud Fountain raced a (mostly) bare metal Bearcat for a while.

 

https://www.airhistory.net/photo/407023/N148F

 

 

Edited by Chad Veich
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Peter, I believe the back side of the props were painted sometimes "maroon" color...to protect pilot's night vision again reflections.

This is on the early P-40s with steel unpainted fronts.

Will try to find a reference.

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evening folks :)

 

thank you all for your kind comments - really inspires me to do my best :)

 

 

19 hours ago, Chad Veich said:

Bud Fountain raced a (mostly) bare metal Bearcat for a while.

 

https://www.airhistory.net/photo/407023/N148F

 

 

 

Wow Chad! that is right up my street, will see if I can find more info on her :)

 

 

 

2 hours ago, KUROK said:

Peter, I believe the back side of the props were painted sometimes "maroon" color...to protect pilot's night vision again reflections.

This is on the early P-40s with steel unpainted fronts.

Will try to find a reference.

 

 

Very intersting KUROK - would be grateful for any news, I will also see what I can find - this is 'my' aircraft and now you mention it, the backs do look darker, unless it is shadows?

 

1f3p53.jpg

 

it was time for me to face my nemesis....

 

..transparencies - I hate them... they are just a gift wrapped opportunity to screw up in my experience.. thime for the rear vision glass on the fuselage..

 

1FbnTj.jpg

 

..the panels have a small bit of curvature so I made up a buck from profiles of the airframe I used to build it..

 

95324L.jpg

 

..filled the gaps with foam and covered in P38..

 

qFbs9m.jpg

 

..I tried vacforming on this, but as usual got bubbles and distortion so in the end I just used a steaming kettle and pushed the buck into a bit of foam so get the side panels..

 

..the riveted former seen here needed to be made to get the right shape where the glass meets the canopy..

 

GhTpHq.jpg

 

..made a template and bent it from brass, then drilled & added the rivets..

 

OuF3mR.jpg

 

..then made the outer skins - I had made these in PE, but they were too stiff and slightly off colour so I remade them and painted the insides green..

 

a4BQwc.jpg

 

..also made the headrest from milliput and the mounting plate / brackets..

 

2foTyi.jpg

 

..so the first step was to add the former - I cut a slot in the fuselage to take it - that way I knew the profile was right and the structure looks like it might do that anyway..

 

xKh69T.jpg

 

..then the glass was added - the borders edged with a black sharpie as it 'thins' them..

 

vNTM95.jpg

 

..then the top fuselage skin was added and here taped ready for glueing, the cockpit sills and lower window panels..

 

OfFxmC.jpg

 

 

 

..then the I spent 2 hours $hitting myself while outer skins and frames were added..

 

IC8YHI.jpg

 

u1PDZ4.jpg

 

olvJs7.jpg

 

 

lBT5dN.jpg

 

bSPZDS.jpg

 

fOB61Y.jpg

 

2hPhSF.jpg

 

..oddly, it went quite smoothly, but I have the windshield and canopy to go so I can promise you there will be a senior moment along the way :)

 

TTFN

Peter

 

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Viewing your updates always generates a huge mix of emotions Peter. Joy, astonishment, bewilderment, disbelief, incredulity,. I am genuinely sitting here, mouth agape and shaking my head in utter amazement. :o

It is such a privilege to be able to follow your journey so thanks so much for sharing the adventure.

 

Cheers.

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4 hours ago, KUROK said:

Peter, I believe the back side of the props were painted sometimes "maroon" color...to protect pilot's night vision again reflections.

This is on the early P-40s with steel unpainted fronts.

Will try to find a reference.

when the rear side was painted maroon, this anti glare coat extended from 24" station to the tip. The blade root remain nmf.
On the pic the blade reflected the dark areas of around giving impression which they are painted. The nmf root would be visible.

 

 

 

the front frame which retained the plexiglas had a cutout along the edge

file.php?id=28266

 

file.php?id=28267

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As usual you somehow make something potentially really messy "immaculate" as KiwiZac said. 

 

And, I especially like the head rest.  Just today I Rhino modelled my headrest and armor plate on the F4U.  What did you use for the bead?  And what is your trick for sag and wrinkles?  

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