airscale Posted January 20, 2022 Author Share Posted January 20, 2022 5 hours ago, Jaro said: Mark, spectacular build (as always)! If this is not a problem please consider taking photos, in particular small elements, with something else aside just for size reference. Of course not all of them, but from time to time. yes, it's peter here you go.. chukw, Greg W, patricksparks and 14 others 17 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted January 20, 2022 Author Share Posted January 20, 2022 11 hours ago, KUROK said: Aye - Yi -Yi !!! Super cool. Which color do you use for the interior green? Looks just right. why thank you It's a mix, but it started out as tamiya XF73 D.Green/JGSDF with a bit of white and drops of XF55 Deck Tan & X5 Green Peter Martinnfb, JayW, KUROK and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiggTim Posted January 20, 2022 Share Posted January 20, 2022 Peter, could you refresh my memory on how you make those incredible flat rivets? Martinnfb, Out2gtcha and airscale 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiwiZac Posted January 21, 2022 Share Posted January 21, 2022 I thought the control stick and torque tube looked good, then I saw your upper wing/floor section. Stupendous!! airscale and Martinnfb 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerhard Posted January 21, 2022 Share Posted January 21, 2022 Mind blowing. WOW!!!! airscale and Martinnfb 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaro Posted January 21, 2022 Share Posted January 21, 2022 17 hours ago, dodgem37 said: Jaro, the author is Peter Castle. Not Mark. Sincerely, Mark 15 hours ago, airscale said: yes, it's peter here you go.. Sorry Peter, my fault. I hope you don't mind. And thanks for the photo - now I have a good reference for the scale. Looking forward for next stages... Good luck Martinnfb and airscale 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KUROK Posted January 21, 2022 Share Posted January 21, 2022 (edited) 23 hours ago, airscale said: why thank you It's a mix, but it started out as tamiya XF73 D.Green/JGSDF with a bit of white and drops of XF55 Deck Tan & X5 Green Peter Peter, I did think it might be based on a lightened dark green. I was right! OTOH I know some of the early P-40s did not use interior green. It may have been chromate yellow with added "lamp black" to darken it (which seemed to photograph green in the few color photos I've seen). I'm calling on other P-40 bros to help me out here. Since you are doing a "C" they probably switched over to the Curtiss green...so... you good! Edited January 21, 2022 by KUROK Martinnfb and airscale 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baffozac Posted January 21, 2022 Share Posted January 21, 2022 Another wonder in the making ! airscale and Martinnfb 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted January 22, 2022 Author Share Posted January 22, 2022 evening folks On 1/20/2022 at 8:26 PM, BiggTim said: Peter, could you refresh my memory on how you make those incredible flat rivets? Hey Tim - I do it by 100% cheating and making PE parts - all the rivets on the floor are designed on my computer as PE and then a big fret of parts made up, so I make no claims to any special tricks ..talking of PE, I designed a kit of parts to make the early rounded back seat from layers.. I had choices with the pressed nature of the parts - I could have gone half etch and tried to emboss them, or I could have made holes and raised areas to represent the strengthening ribs.. I went with slots & ribs.. ..the parts were assembled, the bit at an angle at the base of the seat didn't fit so I reworked it.. ..then added a rim of fuse wire around the edge.. ..I made up some belts from lead rolled really thin - the hardware is scaled up from a new range of airscale seatbelts coming in late Feb.. I was doing the shoulder belts when I found out they were only introduced in 1942 and the A/C I am doing is pre-war I think.. ..will look something like this.. ..then made up the hydraulic hand pump which is mounted on the floor.. ..and painted & assembled the bits to date.. ..prolly start on the sidewalls next.. TTFN Peter KiwiZac, D.B. Andrus, Model_Monkey and 24 others 27 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiggTim Posted January 22, 2022 Share Posted January 22, 2022 The effect is simply stunning! I've never seen anything more realistic. Tim JayW, airscale and Martinnfb 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted January 22, 2022 Share Posted January 22, 2022 It's truly wonderful to watch an artist at work. Keep it up Peter Matt Martinnfb and airscale 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brahman104 Posted January 22, 2022 Share Posted January 22, 2022 Man I love every post!!! The photo etch just keeps getting better and better Peter! How did you attach the fuse wire rim around the edge of the seat? I'm assuming sugerglue, but was it a gel type and you shaped and attached as you went? Incredibly impressive as always!!!....... going back to read your chapter of making PE in the Race 80 ebook...... Cheers, Craig airscale and Martinnfb 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiwiZac Posted January 23, 2022 Share Posted January 23, 2022 5 hours ago, BiggTim said: The effect is simply stunning! I've never seen anything more realistic. Tim Exactly what he said. WOW!!! airscale, BiggTim and Martinnfb 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted January 23, 2022 Share Posted January 23, 2022 Impossibly good, Peter! Kev TAG, airscale, JayW and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted January 26, 2022 Author Share Posted January 26, 2022 evening all thanks for stopping by got some more done on the P40 - first up the 3D printed chin intake arrived (thanks Tim!) so cleaned it up, added the fillets I needed that I couldn't do in 3D and painted alclad duralumin. I wanted to paint it even though it would need filler and sanding as if I was careful the inner faces where it meets the green intake parts would be undisturbed and save a tricky masking job later.. ..then it was added and faired in with P38... the stage pictured is adding a raised rim all the way around what in reality is a casting so I can butt sheet litho up to it when I skin it.. the rim is created by adding dymo tape and filling up to it's level.. ..then finished off and painted for later... ..then moved on to creating the cockpit sidewalls.. ..there is a lot going on here...I started by making sheet parts to fit - lots of bending & shaping to get them to sit naturally in the open cockpit area. then brass sections were added to keep them straight and a sheet of balsa CA'd to this to basically keep the sides in a jig so they can be worked, but preserve their shape.. ..for the coaming I vacformed from plan sections, though I cut it too short so had to make two parts.. ..then that lot was all faired in but keeping free where the parts will break away from the fuselage, and the windshield opening cut away.. ..the sidewalls were carefully broken away and the inner faces treated prior to skinning with litho.. ..the datum line and the station positions were marked while on the model so they are true.. ..those same datum marks were traced onto tape and the tape used to mark the positions on the new inner skin.. ..then the main longeron, some stringers and the fuselage stations were added - problem here was the formers were from drawings and they didn't match the sidewalls too well so a bit of fettling was needed - there are still some gaps, but it is what it is.. ..and they are a nice neat fit into the fuselage and are open and accessible in the jigs for detailing.. ..now about 5,000 bits need to be made to go on them.. TTFN Peter LSP_Kevin, TAG, Bil and 28 others 31 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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