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Application of Mr Metal Color lacquer vs Mr Color lacquers


ivanmoe

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I've been using Mr Color lacquers for a couple of months now, and really like them.

 

I've had good luck thinning them 3:2, thinner/paint, with Mr Color Leveling Thinner.

 

Now, I've got this bottle of MC218, "Mr Metal Color Aluminum."

 

Any thoughts on how the metal colors should be handled differently from the regular Mr Color lacquers, thinning for example?

 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, quang said:

I use the Mr Metal color exactly as I do with the regular MrColor. I thin them 50:50 with regular drugstore cellulose thinner. Works a treat.;)

HTH

Quang

 

Have you ever tried "Mr Color Rapid Thinner" with the metallic colors?

 

 

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I only use generic cellulose thinner with my lacquers (Gunze MrColor, AK Realcolors, Tamiya LP, Hataka Orange,…) I’ve got Tamiya lacquer thinner and Gunze Self Leveling thinner but rarely use them. I cannot see the difference with the regular thinner. But YMMV of course.:)

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Generic lacquer thinner differs from "leveling" thinners in that it lacks an additive that slows the drying time allowing the paint to flow out smoother. I used to use the generic stuff for everything but now I only use it for cleaning my airbrush and to thin whatever paint (primer or clear) that will go down on bare styrene. The generic thinner is hotter than the hobby grade stuff and it will cause the paint to etch into styrene forming a molecular bond.

 

Here's a test I did:

170956021.jpg

The picture on the left is Mr. Color thinned with generic lacquer thinner. When aggressively sanded the paint feathers smoothly. The picture on the right is Mr. Color thinned with Mr. Color Leveling thinner. When aggressively sanded the paint scrapes off.

 

As always, YMMV

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3 hours ago, Archer Fine Transfers said:

 

The picture on the left is Mr. Color thinned with generic lacquer thinner. When aggressively sanded the paint feathers smoothly. The picture on the right is Mr. Color thinned with Mr. Color Leveling thinner. When aggressively sanded the paint scrapes off.

That’s precisely what I like about the generic thinner. I sand A LOT :rolleyes:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yes, you can airbrush them for larger areas but I normally use a brush straight from the jar dries in a few minutes the use a dry clean brush, all brush marks disappear then buff the your required finish.

Sealing is a must but some varnishes can dull the surface I used Mr Metal Primer with good results (must give it a try again)

When MDC was doing UK shows I must have given hundreds of demonstrations over the years ( and sold a lot of Mr Metal Color)

 

I remember one show I was demonstrating Mr Metal Color everybody wanted some even the demonstration pots went !!!

 

Bob

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