Tamiya F-4 Intake Correction - Help Needed

[John1]

Folks, I’m starting my F-4C build and had planned on dealing with the crappy kit intakes as the first step.   A few months ago, I found an awesome build log online that showed in detail how the guy was able to modify the kit parts to fix the issue, vrs purchasing expensive resin intakes.  I bookmarked the site.   
 

Just went back to start reviewing the process and found out the site is gone!    I looked at the WIP builds on this site, can’t find anything useful. 
 

Can anyone point me towards some online instructions on how to correct the intakes using only the kit bits?

Edited November 23, 2021 by John1

[easixpedro]

While I don't have instructions, I do have unsolicited advice. On previous Tamiya Phantoms as well as the smaller scale Academy offering, I have used both .010 styrene and plain ol' white paper soaked in white glue. Both are thin enough to take the compound curves and essentially become a 'skin' to cover the ugly seams.  It is manpower intensive, but good results can be had. On my last Phantom build, I went with aftermarket as I didn't feel like putting in that much effort (i.e. lazy).

-Peter

[thierry laurent]

Globally this is quite simple:

 

1. Assemble each air intake : B26-B42 / B27-B43 and...sand...sand...sand

2. Saw properly the section molded with each side of the fuselage

3. Add it on the assembly. and..sand...sand...sand

4. Fill the remaining small gap on the external side of the intake tube with plastic strip/epoxy putty and...sand...sand...sand

5. Add each intake on the external part (A1 / A2)

6. Add plastic and or epoxy putty to remove the infamous step within the external part. and...sand...sand...sand..sand...sand...sand..sand...sand...sand!

7. Dry fit and remove any protruding plastic from the fuselage as it may prevent correct positioning of the intake

8. Add the front engine parts

9. Glue the intake in the fuselage against the splitter plate assembly (B11-B18 / B12-B17) but dry check to be sure the belly part can be properly added later

 

Should I say you have to sand at each step?

 

There are other details to add or correct e.g. fantasy rivets to fill behind the splitter plate, moving section to add as well as details in the holes above and under the variramp, panels lines to add on its back, etc. Up to you to know where you want to stop.

 

In a nutshell this is what I did. This is a lengthy PITA but not that difficult.

 

HTH

 

Thierry

[Lee White]

That thread was by the late LAPEER Ruzlkampf. Check his phantom build for info. I used the technique,  it  works.

[Lee White]

Just now, Lee White said:

That thread was by the late LAPEER Ruzlkampf. Check his phantom build for info. I used the technique,  it  works.

LSP'er, not "Lapeer".

[Lee White]

2 minutes ago, Lee White said:

That thread was by the late LAPEER Ruzlkampf. Check his phantom build for info. I used the technique,  it  works.

 

 

[ScottsGT]

Oh man, flashbacks!!  My first Tamiya was all it took for me to stock up on resin intake sets when I found them on eBay or online elsewhere.  I think I spent a week working out the kit parts.  I can do the DMold or the old Rhino's in a couple of hours at most.

[allthumbs]

Here is build article from the LSP Website that illustrates a relatively simple solution…click here

[allthumbs]

4 hours ago, thierry laurent said:

Globally this is quite simple:

 

1. Assemble each air intake : B26-B42 / B27-B43 and...sand...sand...sand

2. Saw properly the section molded with each side of the fuselage

3. Add it on the assembly. and..sand...sand...sand

4. Fill the remaining small gap on the external side of the intake tube with plastic strip/epoxy putty and...sand...sand...sand

5. Add each intake on the external part (A1 / A2)

6. Add plastic and or epoxy putty to remove the infamous step within the external part. and...sand...sand...sand..sand...sand...sand..sand...sand...sand!

7. Dry fit and remove any protruding plastic from the fuselage as it may prevent correct positioning of the intake

8. Add the front engine parts

9. Glue the intake in the fuselage against the splitter plate assembly (B11-B18 / B12-B17) but dry check to be sure the belly part can be properly added later

 

Should I say you have to sand at each step?

 

There are other details to add or correct e.g. fantasy rivets to fill behind the splitter plate, moving section to add as well as details in the holes above and under the variramp, panels lines to add on its back, etc. Up to you to know where you want to stop.

 

In a nutshell this is what I did. This is a lengthy PITA but not that difficult.

 

HTH

 

Thierry

Excellent summary Thierry.

Regarding rows of rivets on the last section of the vari-ramps, they actually exist on the real deal. However they are flush to the surface and barely visible, even up close.

 

[iaf-man]

you all missed the simplest solution-FOD intake cover...no rivets,no cutting..no sanding...

[petrov27]

Shoot I got an old set of Rhino intakes that I would send ya but they are for the Tamiya F-4J so not sure they would work (I am not up on intake diffs between Phantom marks....)

[eoyguy]

1 hour ago, petrov27 said:

Shoot I got an old set of Rhino intakes that I would send ya but they are for the Tamiya F-4J so not sure they would work (I am not up on intake diffs between Phantom marks....)

All the Tamiya Phantoms have the same fuselage/intakes, so no problem there

[thierry laurent]

9 hours ago, allthumbs said:

Excellent summary Thierry.

Regarding rows of rivets on the last section of the vari-ramps, they actually exist on the real deal. However they are flush to the surface and barely visible, even up close.

 

I know. I put 'Fantasy' as they should be invisible in 1/32!

[Tony T]

The advantage of the lazy route is that some resin sets have compressor faces more appropriate to the Navy types

 

Tony 

Edited November 25, 2021 by Tony T

[Mark B.]

Hi John,

Hope this helps,

 

This is not as hard as it sounds. Paul Stoner showed me how to do it when I had a couple of warped Seamless Sucker intakes.

 

Just cut the upper part of the front of the intakes off the fuselage and glue them to the two intake parts, B26, B42 and B27, B43. Glue the intakes into the exterior side fuselage parts A1 and A2. Then glue a piece of 10000 plastic sheet over the joint/bump in the mating area of the trunks and parts A1 and A2 as shown below.

 

 

 

 

Use your favorite filler to blend in the step and sand a little and viola seamless intakes as shown below.

 

 

 

 

 

Oh and tapping sand paper around these little guys

 

 

really makes the sanding go a lot easier.  All told I think a spent less than 4 hours total over two days (drying time for the kit parts does add a little down time) on both intakes from start to finish.

 

Good luck with the build.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 24, 2021 by Mark B.
sp