themongoose Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 Oh those look good. I’ve got that ellegoo on my ‘list’ on amazon. The more i see the closer i am to pulling the trigger hehehe daveculp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighter Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 The engine looks lovely, Dave! Makes me want to dig out my Tiger as well... daveculp and stusbke 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveculp Posted January 17, 2022 Author Share Posted January 17, 2022 Tailpipe painted, assembled and shown here test fitted. I like this arrangement because the part can be installed later after everything else is painted. This is a good time to talk about CAD. The parts look pretty complicated but a lot of it is just mirror/copy/paste work. I make my meshes using AC3D, and I'm probably one of very few people doing this. Most people use a parametric type of CAD, like Fusion360 or FreeCAD. AC3D is more of a low-level type of CAD, and I often do things at the triangle level (a mesh is just a web of triangles). AC3D has some basic shapes available like cylinder, box, rectangle, etc. In the nozzle I only made one "feather" and then used mirroring, copying, pasting and rotating to make the rest. This leads me to one of the benefits I've found with using Chitubox, the slicer app that comes with the Elegoo resin printer. Most slicer apps are strict about your mesh being one contiguous mesh and will refuse to slice a mesh that is "not a mesh". I've discovered that Chitubox is not restrictive that way. If you you simply overlap parts that are meshes the slicer is smart enough to figure out what the result should be. For example this part: which is a cylinder stuck into a cube, is not a valid mesh, but Chitubox has no problem slicing this. For resin printing it only has to figure out what is inside (gets resin) and what is outside (doesn't get resin). Special bonus - if I invert the normals in the cylinder Chitubox will know I want a hole. From what I've seen slicing parts for my FDM printer the above "mesh" won't print. I don't know if this is because the slicer (Cura) isn't flexible enough, or if there is something about calculating a tool path that requires a contiguous mesh. So for the nozzle all those feathers are just crammed together (overlap) and do not form a valid mesh. I use this a lot in my design work, and it saves me hours of time. -- Dave patricksparks, LSP_Kevin, Starfighter and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandiego Posted January 18, 2022 Share Posted January 18, 2022 Dave, can you print clear canopy parts with your printer? I am looking into a Elegoo Mars 3 printer and if it can print clear parts so much the better. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveculp Posted January 18, 2022 Author Share Posted January 18, 2022 11 minutes ago, Dandiego said: Dave, can you print clear canopy parts with your printer? I am looking into a Elegoo Mars 3 printer and if it can print clear parts so much the better. Dan I've not had success with clear parts. All of them started yellowing immediately, even without the final curing step. With that said, I've heard that some people have been able to do it, and their magical process involves a lot of post-processing steps. I don't know the magic. -- Dave Dandiego and GROWLER 96 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patricksparks Posted January 18, 2022 Share Posted January 18, 2022 13 hours ago, daveculp said: I've not had success with clear parts. All of them started yellowing immediately, even without the final curing step. With that said, I've heard that some people have been able to do it, and their magical process involves a lot of post-processing steps. I don't know the magic. -- Dave I never tried it, but I read or was told by someone that there is a clear spray of some sort that you apply to to printed cleat parts to keep them from yellowing ???? I remember seeing an add for a KRYLON anti yellowing spray ? Pat daveculp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighter Posted January 18, 2022 Share Posted January 18, 2022 I have printed the canopy for my S-3B on a Formlabs Form 2 back in the day and the Formlabs clear resin does not yellow over time. Most if not all clear resins compatible with cheaper DLP printers seem to yellow over time. GROWLER 96, daveculp and Out2gtcha 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveculp Posted January 18, 2022 Author Share Posted January 18, 2022 3 hours ago, patricksparks said: I never tried it, but I read or was told by someone that there is a clear spray of some sort that you apply to to printed cleat parts to keep them from yellowing ???? I remember seeing an add for a KRYLON anti yellowing spray ? Pat I tried the Krylon UV-resistant spray trick and it sort of worked. Here's a small clear part I printed for my OV-10A project's laser designator: It's still slightly yellowed, but being such a small part it's hard to see. I haven't tried this technique on a larger part like a canopy. Maybe I should run some test prints and see what I can do. Landrotten Highlander, GROWLER 96 and patricksparks 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveculp Posted February 23, 2022 Author Share Posted February 23, 2022 (edited) Wings attached using a brass semi-spar. Seems strong enough. Next step is printing up some wing fences and flap hinges. Weight is at 202 grams (without cockpit, canopy, landing gear, exhaust). Edited February 23, 2022 by daveculp posted to wrong thread themongoose, GROWLER 96, denders and 8 others 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockie Yarwood Posted February 24, 2022 Share Posted February 24, 2022 Beautiful job. Looking really sexy now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveculp Posted February 26, 2022 Author Share Posted February 26, 2022 Wing fences, flap hinges and fuel drain are printed. I thought I'd show some photos of the wing fence post-printing process. The fences are very thin, so I cured them with some of the support structure still attached, and they were placed in the curing box such that they'd cure evenly. ( My usual procedure is to remove all supports from a part and then cure it one side, then flip it over to cure the other side. For most parts this works fine. ) After curing I snipped off the rest of the support structure and sanded off the remaining nubs. The test fit looks good. I could have scratch built the fences, but I wanted them tapered (thinner at the top) which would be a lot harder to do with such a small and delicate part. Landrotten Highlander, GROWLER 96, Starfighter and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveculp Posted October 10, 2022 Author Share Posted October 10, 2022 Moving the F-11F project back to the front burner. I've got the masks cut for the yellow markings, but before I apply them I need to do some repair work on the right wing. I have this bad habit of moving the airbrush from side to side quickly, and sometimes I'll shake some paint out of the cup. This lacquer thinner eats into the paint and primer - all the way down to the resin. Here I'm re-primering the wing and filling up the depressions caused by the thinner. When it comes to painting I'm such a noob. Landrotten Highlander, LSP_Kevin, Cheetah11 and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Barry Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 This is inspiring work (and I need it!) Carry on, Dave! daveculp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandiego Posted November 13, 2022 Share Posted November 13, 2022 Hey Dave, I have been going over your build and realized that you have closed up the fuselage but have no cockpit yet. Did I miss something? Or do you have a plan? Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveculp Posted November 13, 2022 Author Share Posted November 13, 2022 18 minutes ago, Dandiego said: Hey Dave, I have been going over your build and realized that you have closed up the fuselage but have no cockpit yet. Did I miss something? Or do you have a plan? Dan I have a roughed-in scratched cockpit so far. I'll probably go with decals for the panels, and 3D printed seat and stick. LSP_Kevin, Panzerwomble, Dandiego and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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