F11F vacuform Blue Angels

[daveculp]

Next project is a Tigger vacuform F11F Tiger built as a Blue Angels airplane.  For this WIP I'll start with some basic vacuform techniques.  Later I'll get into the 3D printed parts, then finally the painting.  OK, first the obligatory "start of project" shot:

 

 

 

All I've done so far is cut out the wheel wells.  I made a template based on the drawings and photo references, then traced around the template with pencil and extra-fine tip marker.  I cut out the wells using a Trumpeter scribing tool and lengths of Dymo labeling tape.  This preserves the door and gives me the option of using that part later if I decide I don't want to print one instead.  Later I'll have to cut out the openings for the cockpit, intakes, cannons and exhaust.  I might cut out the NACA scoops as well, as I did with the Honey Badger project.

 

 

Before I get too far here's my setup for removing the parts from their sheets.  I've clamped a piece of MDF board (a thick one so it's nice and flat) to my bench.  I duct-taped a sheet of 220 grit sand paper to the board.  

 

First step is to draw around the parts with a black marker.  I use a Sharpie fine point marker.  

 

Second step is to cut around each part.  I use a box cutter with a sharp new blade.  Be careful here!  Leave about a 1/4 inch brim around each part.

 

 

 

 

For most parts it helps to make a handle out of duct tape.  For the fuselage I made two handles since it's a long part.  This just helps prevent sanding off the ends of your fingers.

 

 

A close-up of the part ready to be sanded:

 

 

 

 

NOTE:  The part has to be extricated in this tedious way.  DO NOT try to cut the part out instead.  If you do it'll be the wrong size and won't fit right.

 

Sand the part down.  Circular motions are best.  After a while you'll start seeing the black ink showing through the UNDERSIDE of the brim.  Use this as a gauge to ensure you're sanding the part down evenly.  Periodically check the underside of the brim, and if you see some of it is whiter than the rest then that means you need to press harder there.  Eventually the brim will get very thin and will either fall off or can be easily peeled off.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thick objects, like fuselages, come out pretty straight, right-sized, and ready for action.  Some thin parts, like fighter jet wings and tails, can be too thick for scale.  In that case you'll either need to shape it with more sanding or 3D print a replacement.  In this case the vertical tail looks usable (I'll 3D print a new rudder for it), but the horizontal tails will be easier to 3D print.  This airplane has very thin wings, and I have't decided yet if I'll be using the vac parts or printing my own.

 

One thing to consider here is that the parts printed on a resin printer will be heavier than the plastic parts.  The weight will add up and eventually you'll have to worry about the strength of the landing gear which will also be printed.

 

 

-- Dave

 

 

 

 

[themongoose]

Such a unique jet. Hadn’t seen this one before and had to go look it up. The tortuous part of this is I may have to get a 4th model out of the stash now! I have my 1st vac to do, an F-84F, so i may just follow along and try to get the parts off the sheet in good order. I ruined one decades ago because i had no idea how to seperate the parts haha…I was 14 so going to blame it on immaturity 

[Dandiego]

Dave....

 

Vacs are cool, huh.

 

I have this same kit. Hardest part is a strong and level attachment for the wings. I had thought about 3d printing some internal bulkheads that would incorporate wing spars and the wheel bays. 

 

Go Dave go.

 

Dan

[daveculp]

First worked on the vertical tail today.  The fairing at the base of the tail is repeated on the fuselage part, so I cut off the extra one on the fuselage.

 

 

 

 

 

Then after gluing the tail halves together I cut out the rudder and started some shaping:

 

 

 

 

 

I then designed and printed the horizontal tails:

 

 

 

 

 

The horizontal tails are only 6 percent thick  (thickness is 6 percent of chord length) :

 

 

 

 

 

In preparation for designing the main gear wells I first took measurements of the inside of the fuselage at seven locations in the area of the main gear:

 

 

 

 

I photographed each profile, then scaled and adjusted them in my graphics app.  These photos then became textures to apply to some squares in my CAD app.  I'm now at the laborious stage of adding the triangles to build the mesh that will represent the inside of the fuselage.  Those coke bottle fuselages are difficult to recreate.

 

 

 

 

 

A 3D scanner might be of use here, but I don't have that technology so I have to do it the old fashioned way.

 

 

-- Dave

[Dandiego]

Great work on this. Love the 3d printed parts.

 

Dan

[mozart]

“Low-tech” meets “Hi-tech” (vac plus 3D) = Interesting! 

[blackbetty]

cool project, but i cant see the pics

[daveculp]

I've got the left main gear well printed.  The fit is good enough, so I have it in the curing box now getting a UV bath.

 

 

[blackbetty]

still no pics 

[mattcour]

Nice project I'm sure but no images visible!

[spartacus2000]

no image 4 me too

[LSP_Ron]

The images are there for me, Try a different browser maybe?

[LSP_Kevin]

On 11/22/2021 at 8:00 PM, blackbetty said:

cool project, but i cant see the pics

 

8 hours ago, blackbetty said:

still no pics 

 

1 hour ago, mattcour said:

Nice project I'm sure but no images visible!

 

1 hour ago, spartacus2000 said:

no image 4 me too

 

This is the old 'mixed content' problem, where your browser is refusing to display Dave's HTTP-hosted images on LSP's HTTPS-hosted forum. As Ron suggested, you're only option is to try a less-restrictive browser (I'm using Firefox and can see them fine).

 

Kev

[petrov27]

I just right click each image and select open image in new tab as a workaround

[daveculp]

Working on the inlets while the right main wheel well is printing.  After cutting out the inlet opening I used a saw to cut a notch next to the fuselage:

 

 

 

 

Notch is complete and gun fairings are opened up:

 

 

 

 

 

I cut out a long rectangular strip of styrene sheet that slides into the notch.  This will be both the splitter plate and the inner wall of the inlet duct.  I won't be making a full inlet duct - just a reasonable first couple of inches.  Here I penciled in the approximate shape of the splitter plate.

 

 

 

 

 

-- Dave