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If you’re looking for a RF-4 round nose conversion for the Tamiya kit….


Dave Williams

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3 hours ago, Mark B. said:

Touche.  Forgot about that point, but real model from CZ has replacement slotted stabilizers. Real Model Stabs .  They are for Revell F-4 kits though so maybe there might be issues installing on Tamiya kits. 

 

So either way we are left with a bit of problem.  Start with C/D kits and work on slotted stabs.  Start with a J kit and work on rear cockpit and nose gear doors.  And either way you are looking for exhaust nozzles.  One wonders why Phantom Phreaks left out the doors?


The Tamiya  J kits have the C/D/E cockpit parts included .

 

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18 hours ago, Lee White said:

Is there a way to modify the Revell nose to the rounded variant?


Hi Lee,

 

The basic nose structure of the Recce Phantom was not altered. Only the two ventral camera bay doors were modified for the “rounded” variant. 
 

So a DIY approach using Revell’s plastic parts as a starting point is feasible, especially given your modeling skills. 
 

Besides saving a lot of money, you gain the hollow, “see through” feature of the real RF-4.

 

Rich

 

cnrC5pu.jpg
9keWVr2.jpg

 

 

Edited by allthumbs
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You don't need slotted stabilators for most RF-4E's. If they had the BLC hardwing they had unslotted stabilators. If you're using the F-4E/EJ kit the stabilator slotted edges need grinding off. 

 

The chief reason for using the F-4C/D is to furnish the NLG doors which aren't in the conversion kit. And it features unslotted stabs.

Note, however, that the location of the UHF/TACAN antenna and door lights were transposed on the RF-4C/E NLG door compared with the fighter C/D. I.e. upside down, in effect.

 

The only reason for using an F-4J is to make one of the three thick-winged, slotted stab, rounded nose USMC RF-4B's built. 

 

Tony 

 

 

 

 

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16 hours ago, allthumbs said:


Hi Lee,

 

The basic nose structure of the Recce Phantom was not altered. Only the two ventral camera bay doors were modified for the “rounded” variant. 
 

So a DIY approach using Revell’s plastic parts as a starting point is feasible, especially given your modeling skills. 
 

Besides saving a lot of money, you gain the hollow, “see through” feature of the real RF-4.

 

Rich

 

cnrC5pu.jpg
9keWVr2.jpg

 

 

Hi Rich, thanks for the info and the vote of confidence, I appreciate it. Now I have to dig out my RF and see what I can do.

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