RIVET DETAILING..SUGGESTIONS?

[Ironwing]

Greetings All

 

Im looking for suggestions  regarding riveting and how you might go about riveting the edge of a cowling. Have a look...

I have to rivet from the inside out along the back edge. How would yo do it?

 

Regards

Geoff

[bobster]

Hi Geoff. If you want the rivets to stand proud on the back edge of cowl, I would use a punch and die set, making each rivet from thin brass. I have several sets, including one that can make a dimpled rivet, as well as a flat one.  Your scratched cowling is looking good. Looks like a Tiger Moth. Good luck.

[Rick Griewski]

I would look into decal based rivets.  They are uniform size and spacing. The height can be controlled to certain extent by very fine sand paper.  HTH

 

 

[denders]

I guess the hack caused my post to go missing. I had commented about trying Archer's decal based rivets. I had noticed a couple weeks back that Sprue had shown them in their 'what's new' listings.

[BiggTim]

I would second the plug for Archer's raised decal rivets, if raised is what you need.

 

Tim

[Derek B]

Hi Geoff,

 

Difficult one! I assume that the fact that you are using litho plate is so that you can achieve a realistic aluminium polish to it, which limits your options somewhat?

 

Using a pone wheel or pushing a spike to form rivets from the inner rear edge (again, assuming that you want external domed head rivets) would achieve what you want, but possibly at the risk of distorting the rear edge cowl shape?

 

A safer route may be to impress/drill small dimples into the cowl and glue small solder beads into them, which can then be polished to match the rest of the cowl later? (embossing the remaining airframe litho sheets from the reverse side would be less problematic in comparison).

 

Good luck

 

Derek

[brahman104]

Hi Geoff,

 

Similar to Derek's suggestion above, instead of using solder beads, use small lengths of 0.3mm solder inserted into drilled holes and then trimmed to uniform length by using a piece of PE (or similar thickness) as a guide.

 

I've seen a guy of FB achieve some amazing results this way over the top of foiled finishes. While I haven't tried it myself, I will be in the near future.

 

Note: These are not my photos, so I hope the owner won't be upset. Merely sharing these to illustrate the technique.....

 

 

0.3mm solder lengths.

 

 

Holes drilled in rivet locations

 

 

Solder glued into holes with super glue

 

 

And trimmed with a razor blade using the PE as a height guage

 

 

Can be applied to all areas

 

 

Results speak for themselves!

 

 

Up to you but this is what I would do in your shoes. Best technique I've seen to date!

 

Hope this helps,

 

Craig

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Derek B]

To follow on to Tim's very good suggestion (or, at least, develop it), the shape of the protruding solder head can be changed to match your purposes; let me explain. 

 

In the above images, it appears that the modeller has cut them flush and then embossed a small depression into the centre of each rivet, effectively making it look similar to an Avdel type pop rivet. However, if you wish to represent a smooth domed mushroom head type rivet (which is what I suspect), then after the solder slicing and levelling operation as described above with some PE etch sheet and a sharp blade, use of an appropriately sized beading tool will most likely reproduce a realistic looking domed rivet head - what do you think?

 

 

Cheers

 

Derek

[Ironwing]

Greetings All,

 

Let me first say my explanation for what I was looking for was just stupid. Allow me to clarify.

 

The main body of the cowling, sides, top, and bottom have only Dzus fasteners. I should have clearer about this part. There is a line of rivets around the back edge of the nose cap. See below. 

Theyre a bit hard to see and are most obvious, in this photo, at the bottom of the cap. This operation will be dicey. I really dont want to have to make another nose cap. Obviously it has to be done from the inside out. Domed rivets are the goal. I think the edge of the part can handle it. It can always go back on the buck to be straightened out. I experiments with RB Productions riveting tool. It woks well. It leaves a nicely domed rivet with little to no distortion. Keeping the rivet line straight os the main concern. I could try to get a piece of Dymo Tape around the edge and try to follow it with the riveting tool.

 

Im glad you guys looked in. Youre always helpfull. Jeez. Craig, where on earth did you fine that T-6? Id have to Id have to be medicated to do that job.

 

Many thanks...be safe

 

Geoff

 

 

[brahman104]

Hey Geoff, 

 

Not sure if I've done this right, but this is how I am currently doing my raised rivets on my B-17. I step through how I do it, which is basically an extension of what you've thinking, but once the metal surrounding the rivet is pushed back down around it, it becomes much sharper and clearer than just simply pushing it through from the back.

 

Hope this helps!

 

Craig