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MRP Paints - Question


alaninaustria

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5 hours ago, Greg W said:

 

 

Brian, have you experimented with dialing the air pressure way down, like below ten PSI? 

 

I have a few MRP Luftwaffe colors but have not played with them yet.

I have sprayed detail at just under 10psi with a .2 needle but mostly I spray between 10 and 15 psi with a .35 needle. 

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The pigments are so fine that on their original site they described them as being more like an ink than paint.

Their AcLac is great for airbrushing but not so for touch ups so they now have straight acrylics that are

brushable for touch ups and the ones I have used are a perfect match for the AcLacs.

They do smell funky but I've only had a problem with that when spraying large areas and primer coating

with a .5 Procon gun (I wear a mask for that). Most of the time I'm spraying at a much lower volume and

pressure so I just have a slow fan pointed in my direction. Best to practice on a mule until you feel comfortable

with their behavior.    91% alcohol will strip it in nothing flat.

Have fun  :)

Edited by MikeMaben
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17 hours ago, intheway said:

I also was very happy with them initially. I built a Zero and MRP was the only choice that had the colours I needed. They spray really nice with no thinning and look great. I sprayed on future as a clear coat before decalling which may have been my mistake. Cured for a couple of days and then started decals. The water from the decals caused runs and streaks in the paint. Brushing on micro sol made it worse. It made for a lot of touch ups. Because most other people seem to have good results, I don't want to give up on them and plan to try it again but using a gloss clear other than future.

 

17 hours ago, LSP_Ray said:

I definitely wouldn't use future before decals. Future can do weird things with the the decal solvents. I only use Future for canopy dipping now.

 

100% agree with Ray here. Future is also an acrylic, and while MRP is suspended in a lacquer medium, it still is acrylic particles and Future can really mess things up.

Honestly, I have never once gotten satisfactory results using Future as a clear coat. 

Future pools easily, is effected by water, thinner (acrylic lacquer AND enamel) as well as being effected by decal setting solution. Horrible, horrible stuff for an overall clear coat IMHO.

Relegated strictly to canopy dipping for me.

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On 9/3/2021 at 2:57 PM, LSP_K2 said:

Meanwhile I've discovered Mr Hobby synthetic lacquers, and just love the stuff.

 

When I was painting the insignias for my SBD I bought MRP Insignia Blue, white and Insignia Red which I didn't need. Regardless, the MRP Insignia Blue required so many passes to get coverage that by the time it was done and I peeled the mask off the edge was quite prominent. So I canned that and mixed my own Insignia Blue using Mr. Color and the coverage was perfect and extremely thin, so thin in fact that my attempt to mottle failed. 

 

With my background in printing, I've got a sneaking suspicion that MRP is lacquer based printing ink based and that's what gives it its spraying properties, and they may even be tipping their hand when their promotional material states that it "sprays like ink." There's nothing "wrong" with that because it works and it works very well, but no better than Mr. Paint or AK Real Color which both require thinning which seems to turn many people off, but I actually prefer to thin my own paint.

Everyone does what they do with products that work for them, and I'm sticking to Mr. Color lacquers with AK Real Colors as backup.

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MRP have really become my standard paints as well. I love how smooth they spray and the finish is just very nice... and I love that there is no thinning needed at all.

Only real issues I have had are all with their Green colors - They don´t always end up looking like they are supposed to in my opinion.

I really love their Super Flat Varnish as well. It has a very slight sheen to it that makes it great for Aircraft

 

For cleaning I always use their own Airbrush Cleaner. Its super efficient - but DO NOT leave it in the airbrush. It will eat all your O-Rings very quickly.

 

+ : No Thinning needed, Huge range (by now), sprays fantastic, amazingly smooth finish

 

- : Price, Availability, smell and I don´t care much for the new plastic bottles. I want the glass jars back! ;)

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  • 1 month later...
On 9/6/2021 at 10:55 PM, Zola25 said:

MRP have really become my standard paints as well. I love how smooth they spray and the finish is just very nice... and I love that there is no thinning needed at all.

Only real issues I have had are all with their Green colors - They don´t always end up looking like they are supposed to in my opinion.

I really love their Super Flat Varnish as well. It has a very slight sheen to it that makes it great for Aircraft

 

For cleaning I always use their own Airbrush Cleaner. Its super efficient - but DO NOT leave it in the airbrush. It will eat all your O-Rings very quickly.

 

+ : No Thinning needed, Huge range (by now), sprays fantastic, amazingly smooth finish

 

- : Price, Availability, smell and I don´t care much for the new plastic bottles. I want the glass jars back! ;)

 

I have switched over to MRP completely since trying one bottle. In 35+ years of modelling I have never used paint that is easier to use and gives you such great results with minimal effort. No need for gloss pre-decal coat as well which is another plus since it eliminates one more step that one can screw up. I too prefer the glass bottles and wish they changed back. That, and there are now four different bottles in terms of size. Not good if you suffer from mild OCD B)

 

Oh, and this will help since the pigment settles on the bottom quite stubbornly, at least with some of the colors. Some bottles came without steel balls (bicycle ball-bearing balls will do), add one to each bottle, helps too.

 

CbN7oQY.jpg

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On 9/3/2021 at 7:55 PM, Hawkwrench said:

What about cleaning?

What's the pressure range for spraying?

 

Tim

 

Clean up with regular hardware store lacquer thinner.

 

I sometimes thin MRP paints, for purposes of tinting/mist coats.  For this I use Mr Leveling Thinner.  But most of the time I spray them right out of the bottle.

 

I'd say my (non-metallic) paint mix these days is about 50% Mr Color, 40% MRP, 10% everything else.  I still use a lot of Mr Color because I have it and because it binds to bare plastic really well, such that many things don't need to be primed.  I always use a primer under MRP.

 

I am lazy and never adjust airbrush pressure.  It stays about 12 psi all the time, and that seems to work.

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