Another Hasegawa FW190. I FIXED IT!

[Thunnus]

Nice paint slinging, Woody!  I ALWAYS break that antenna post on top of the tail! 

[Woody V]

Now we come to the part some of you have been waiting for - rivets, and there’s a story behind these I have to share.

 

When I started this particular project I set out to make them completely flush which turned out to be one of (if not the most) ridiculous idea I’ve ever come up with. The whole idea was that the rivets would be applied UNDER the paint and then sand the paint down flush with the rivets. As impossible as it may be to believe, I actually thought this would be a good idea. But then came the moment of truth.

 

So there I am sanding away and it was all going according to plan…. Oops, sanded through the paint down to the plastic… Drat! Oh well, perhaps if I was just a little more careful, but the harder I tried the worse it got. So, after some introspective self examination it hit me! Have I gone bonkers? Nobody in their right mind is going to do this! Thus ended that sad chapter in Woody’s World of Bright Ideas.

 

Once I got that mess behind me, and not wanting to throw away months of work getting the skins to fit, I decided to just make plain old rivet decal skins that go on top of the paint. And that’s where we are today.

 

First I gloss coated the model and did a pin wash to pull out the panel lines.

TOP

 

BOTTOM (duh)

 

And thus it begins. It took about 3 hours to get this far but I’m old and slow.

 

Anyway, I’ll be back when I get the bottom finished.

 

Thanks for putting up with me.

Edited May 20, 2022 by Archer Fine Transfers

[dodgem37]

Good job.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

[Hartmann52]

2 hours ago, Archer Fine Transfers said:

Теперь мы подошли к части, которую некоторые из вас ждали — заклепки, и за ними стоит история, которой я должен поделиться.

 

Когда я начал этот конкретный проект, я решил сделать их полностью заподлицо, что оказалось одной из (если не самой) нелепой идеей, которую я когда-либо придумывал. Вся идея заключалась в том, что заклепки должны быть нанесены ПОД краску, а затем зашкурить краску вровень с заклепками. Как ни невозможно в это поверить, я на самом деле думал, что это будет хорошей идеей. Но вот настал момент истины.

 

Так вот, я отшлифовываю, и все идет по плану…. Ой, зашлифовали краску до пластика… Черт! Ну ладно, возможно, если бы я был немного осторожнее, но чем больше я старался, тем хуже становилось. Итак, после некоторого интроспективного самоанализа меня осенило! Я сошел с ума? Никто в здравом уме этого делать не будет! Так закончилась эта печальная глава в «Мире блестящих идей» Вуди.

 

Как только я избавился от этого беспорядка, и не желая выбрасывать месяцы работы по подгонке скинов, я решил просто сделать простые старые деколи с заклепками, которые накладываются поверх краски. И вот где мы находимся сегодня.

 

Сначала я покрыл модель глянцевым лаком и сделал смывку булавками, чтобы вытянуть линии панелей.

ВЕРХНЯЯ

 

НИЖНЯЯ (да)

 

Так и начинается. Потребовалось около 3 часов, чтобы добраться до этого места, но я стар и медлителен.

 

В любом случае, я вернусь, когда закончу дно.

 

Спасибо, что терпишь меня.

Я шлифовал HGW по краске - обратной стороной наждачной бумаге с водой. И все получилось

[LSP_Kevin]

Nice work, Woody! It's looking great.

 

Kev

[Thunnus]

Nice work Woody!  Sometimes it takes a turn down the wrong road to realize you need to change your destination.  Good recovery on the rivet plan!

[Woody V]

21 hours ago, Hartmann52 said:

Я шлифовал HGW по краске - обратной стороной наждачной бумаге с водой. И все получилось

Это восхитительно. У вас явно больше терпения и навыков, чем у меня. Я люблю продукты HGW, и многие из них есть в моей коллекции. Сила Украине!

[Citadelgrad]

Thats an amusing anecdote with the rivets, but i dont think it beats the time i destroyed a tank trying to make a wash with water soluble oil paints and mineral spirits.  Took me forever to figure out what i was doing wrong.  At that point, the answer to what i was doing wrong was “everything.”   Ended up looking like hippies graffitied a monument.  No photos.  

[Woody V]

Just a quick update. Bottom all done

 

Full View

 

And a little close up action.

 

I have about 7 hours into the rivet skins so far. Next we’ll move on to the top.

 

Thanks for looking.

Till next time…

[Jeff T]

Looking good Woody!

 

Jeff.

[Thunnus]

Wow... the rivets look great, Woody!  Much more uniform and straight than mine!

[Woody V]

7 minutes ago, Thunnus said:

Wow... the rivets look great, Woody!  Much more uniform and straight than mine!

Yea, I tried a riveting wheel once and managed to create the most perfect representation of an army of drunken ants wandering about aimlessly.

 

My hat is off to anyone who can do that!  

[Woody V]

All of the rivet skins are on now. Next step is a close inspection for silvering which is kind of unavoidable when you completely cover your model with decals, especially when 95% is clear film. No big deal, just punch holes in the film with a needle and spray or brush some Micro Sol over the area. The MS gets under the film and silvering is gone. It’s just tedious.

 

Regardless, here’s some photos. With the pixel width of photos here only 800 you really can’t see much in a photo of the whole model so I didn’t post any.

 

 

 

 

 

 

That’s it for now.

 

Thanks for watching.

[scvrobeson]

I'm sure it was a ton of work, but it does look good Woody.  Great job persevering on it.

 

 

 

Matt 

[Woody V]

Well, all the miscellaneous decals are on so the next step is to get a satin clear coat on see what horrors await me under the canopy masking.

 

But first, if you remember from our previous episode I mentioned that there was some silvering to be dealt with and poking holes in it with a needle and then adding Micro Sol was the way to go…. WRONG. I did a little test and discovered that a wet coat of Mr. Color Leveling Thinner is so much faster and effective.

 

MY TEST

     On the right is a spare piece of the rivet skins applied with water only on bare styrene. It may be hard to tell in the photo but it is completely silvered (a air gap between the decal and plastic) and is barely attached.

 

     On the left is what happens with a wet coat of Leveling Thinner applied. You will notice that the clear film, which is lacquer, turned into gloss clear lacquer and is completely bonded to the plastic.

 

    All the milky looking areas are reflections coming off the wavy surface of the Hasegawa flap.

 

Whole model hosed down with thinner and stencil decals applied.

 

And of course it just wouldn’t be one of my builds without a busted antenna post.

 

So that’s where I am as of today.

Stay tuned for the further adventures of man vs. Hasegawa.