PCM Hurricane Mki

Troy Molitor · January 27, 2022

Love the Hurri. Looking good CraigC.

CraigC · January 29, 2022

This Hurricane is really beaten up. The difficulty of this kit has challenged and improved my humble skills. My persistence doesn't allow me to bin it. Now I have some decent magnification I can see its never going to be a prize winner.

This was my first attempt at restoring panel lines. Scary at first, although strangely rewarding to make a straight successful pass resulting in a long curl of material removed. There were a few mishaps along the way which i have covered with some Mr dissolved putty, and another first some dissolved styrene in Tamiya liquid cement. Paining the engraved lines with thin liquid cement really improved their appearance.

I could deal with some of the squares but most of the hatches had rounded edges or were elliptical, not sure how to proceed on those. Any ideas?

What struck me as I contemplated how to tackle the various odd shapes was how useful a scale template specific to the modelling subject would be. That has to be an opportunity for someone!!

I have to deal with a number of fine scratches on a model that i have already removed a lot of the moulded detail.

What is the best way forward? More sanding\polishing or coat with a primer and trying a fill and sand?

Edited January 29, 2022 by CraigC

dennismcc · January 29, 2022

For polishing out fine scrathces I use nail buffers or micromesh, this usually gives me a highly polished surface.

For hatches with rounded edges I use templates and a Bare Metal Foil scriber, the templates that I use are Lion Roar, I also have some nice Airwaves curve templates, mistakes when scribing are filled with CA and then sanded, the secret is not to let the CA harden too long as you then lose plastic as the CA i harder, I usualy use an accelerator on the CA and sand straight away

Just checked and it would appear that the Lion Roar templates are discontinued but there are others.

Cheers

Dennis

CraigC · January 29, 2022

After some light sanding it looks a lot better., a little more correction tomorrow, clean the dust out of the panel lines and its ready for some primer.

The dissolved putty worked very well filled the runaway tracks nicely and sanded smooth easily.

Although a fan of black basing, for this model I am going to use grey as I think it highlights the imperfections better.

CraigC · January 29, 2022

4 minutes ago, dennismcc said:

For polishing out fine scrathces I use nail buffers or micromesh, this usually gives me a highly polished surface.

For hatches with rounded edges I use templates and a Bare Metal Foil scriber, the templates that I use are Lion Roar, I also have some nice Airwaves curve templates, mistakes when scribing are filled with CA and then sanded, the secret is not to let the CA harden too long as you then lose plastic as the CA i harder, I usualy use an accelerator on the CA and sand straight away

Just checked and it would appear that the Lion Roar templates are discontinued but there are others.

Cheers

Dennis

Thanks for the clue I'll look for some of those templates.

I too used the Bare Metal Foil scriber followed by an Olfa P cutter. The BMF felt very 'safe" and precise, it gave me the confidence to proceed.

I have some micromesh, what grit do you use for the final polishing?

dennismcc · January 29, 2022

Here's my stash of micromesh, but for final polishing I use nail buffers, the nearest that I can find to the nail buffers is 4000 (yellow) followed by 12000 which does work well.

Nail buffer (green) from eBay

Cheers

Dennis

Edited January 29, 2022 by dennismcc

MikeMaben · January 30, 2022

Looking good Craig. Will look better with a solid primer coat.

Google drawing template or metal drawing template. Metal

templates tend to bend a little better. I don't like scribing

circles or ovals so I sometimes use pencil. But that's just me :rolleyes:

CraigC · February 19, 2022

This model is fighting me all the way.

While polishing the fuselage, the fuselage seams opened. This would be the third time I have had to deal with these. :BANGHEAD2:

I gave the seams a good drink of the liquid cement and onto more filling. Thanks to this model, I have found my filling mojo. I masked off the area to be filled with Tamiya tape and used Mr White Putty. Although the perfect putty is easy to apply is is too easily removed as I like to wet sand. I started with 800 grit until the filler was level with the tape then removed the tape and feathered the edges with 1500 and 2000 grit.

Lessons learnt for future projects as this one has lost quite a bit of the surface details.

A wipe down with IPA then a rub over with 4000,600 and 8000 grit micromesh (thanks for the tip Dennis).

Attached the clear parts along with the pesky aerial that keeps breaking off. (no more superglue mounds !!)

Fingers crossed primer on tomorrow.

Not sure which way to go either with the primer. Two options are, the Mr Surfacer ( is this the one that can be airbrushed after being heavily thinned) or the SMS?

I am painting with Mr Colour i think that will be okay over both :hmmm:

The Canopy fit looks a bit dodgy when closed, that probably explains why all the builds I have seen are with the canopy open.

And finally a couple of pictures of my newly setup working space. Very happy with this as I can see everything instead of it being stored in wooden art boxes.

The model master paints (I am selling locally there are a lot of unopened Luftwaffe colours and some RAF colours. Also going is an Iwata Neo and those art boxes which I have used for over 10 years.

It is inside a large cupboard but good for standing when my back gets sore from too much sitting. With this setup and a couple of small plastic tubs stacked on each other, my working model is at chest height.