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Hasegawa 1/32 190 D-9 - First time mottling!


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Hi Everyone,

 

This my attempt at Hasegawa's D-9. As we all know, it's a beautiful kit , great engineering and detail. This is my second attempt at using an airbrush (there was an aborted T*****ter kit, but the less said about that the better!

This was my first time mottling with an airbrush - still playing around with pressure - my compressor is a mini electric one, so it's more a case of playing with the valve than any sort of precise measurements! 

I also tried paint chipping with the sponge effect, and went way overboard! 

 

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Looks good and especially for a first attempt. Also, I wouldn't go so far as to say your chipping is "way overboard". While restraint is usually not a bad thing, in my opinion, there are also plenty of photos of late 190s showing similar wear, or even worse. So, don't sweat it too hard.;):coolio:

 

John

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Hi John, thanks for the comment. I was happy with it on the back of the canopy, but I think it came off too thick on the wing root area. Might try an artist's pencil next time. I'm trying to soak up as much information from these forums as I can - they are a goldmine of tips!

 

Cheers

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hi

 

thanks for sharing

 

a few things i noticed which may help for next time...

 

mottling good on right side, but a couple of 'splats' on the left - these are probably from too much paint and or too much pressure; it's not that you are too close, because for mottle you need to be close - the closer the better.

i would suggest don't be afraid to make mistakes but also don't be afraid to go back over with the base coat and re-do an area; you don't have to re-do the whole thing 

 

chipping

yes it is overdone to my taste, but i think more importantly you are chipping areas that wouldn't actually chip

the prop blades were i believe wooden - so zero chipping

the flaps could have been wooden, but even if metal, they would not be (should not have been!) walked on, so no chipping

 

decals

generally look good but...the wing walk line decal goes wonky on the left wing

the right fuselage cross shows signs of not laying down into the horizontal panel line - it is catching the light; run a scalpel blade gently along the line to cut the decal, and then dab some decal setting solution in there eg micro sol (there are lots more powerful, but prob not needed here); wait until fully dry before re-visiting, and repeat if necessary.

 

seem lines are quite visible on the wheels - i would gently sand, prime and then see if the line still 'jumps out'

same on wing leading edges i think

i would recommend infini sanding sponges and sanding sticks - they are excellent (made in Korea, but widely available)

 

are the wheels slanted at the same angle as the landing gear? I think they should be vertical / near vertical.

 

i like the overall look so do keep going!

 

btw what paints are you using?

 

cheers

Nick

 

 

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Looks fine to me...if u are into Luftwaffe than u will have a lot of practice ahead :) Its just  a matter of finding right amount of air pressure and paint thickness, and dont hesitate to reapply lighter color if u think u over done it first time...even few times if necessary

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Looks good for a first attempt, I am no expert but the first step is always to have a go at it, then you can refine your technique. I found that my mottles got larger the further on I went so I had to backtrack with the base colour to correct the oversize ones.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

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Nice job for your first attempt at mottling.  NMayhew gives some very good advice for you to build upon.  One of the great things about modelling is being able to watch you skills grow as you build more kits; and on this website there are a lot of very excellent modelers who are also good people willing to help a fellow modeler out.  

 

Mottling takes a fair amount of practice to spray well; and it one of the areas in air brushing where good equipment is a necessity to achieve consistently good results.  An airbrush that can take a .2mm or .15mm nozzle/tip and a compressor that can be dialed down to deliver 5 psi of air pressure really make a difference when it comes to mottling work. 

 

Again, very nice job on your first effort!  And I hope you continue to enjoy your builds as your skills improve.

 

Ernest   

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You've taken on one of the hardest tasks of aircraft modelling and I think it looks really good especially for a first go. Chipping is an extreme art. I now tend to try and use staining and fading of panels more than chipping to convey age and wear, but it depends on the subject of course eg a Japanese ww2 aircraft would be chipped to hell, and the chipping mediums are excellent for doing large ares. Anyway, I recall my first lufty build was not so successful I recall. Keep it up. 

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Hi Everyone, thanks for all the comments and feedback.

 

Nick - so you'd recommend a thinner mixture at lower pressure? I'll try that next time. My logic was that the paint needed to be more concentrated to avoid splatter, but obviously that didn't work! I'm using Mr. Acrysion at the moment. It's the easiest to get hold of, although Vallejo is starting to become available in my area. I prefer to work with acrylics. 

 

Were Allied propellers also wooden? I'm sure I've seen chipping on propellers for them, but you're right - shouldn't be any chipping with wood!

 

Thanks for all the advice - this forum is such a goldmine of tips and help.

 

Lud13 - thanks for the kind words! I definitely enjoy mottling - am looking at Revell's new 262 as a possible future project.

 

Dennis - you're definitely right about consistency. One thing I'm bad at is learning when to switch off the airbrush and call it a day - it's so easy to just try to finish x or y in one sitting, even when the paint is coming out differently from earlier on!

 

Ernest - I actually used a .5mm nozzle - I've ordered a .2mm and .3mm for my next build, as I know such a big nozzle wasn't ideal. Again, thanks for the kind words.

 

Freight Dog - Thanks for the kind words! I really like the look of Japanese aircraft and their chipping - thinking of dipping my toes into those waters in the future. I'm going to try an artists pencil next build and see how it turns out.

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Artists' pencil will certainly give you more control in application. You may also wish to try actually chipping the paint away from a "metal" base coat/primer. That's my preferred method, but it can take a little more prep and practice and the type of paints you use will be a factor, as well. Eventually, you'll probably settle on something that best suits your preferences, but don't be afraid to try them all, even if it means using spare parts as paint mules for practice/testing of method.

 

John

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hi,

 

i exclusively use MRP for airbrushing (lacquer) so I can't help you re Vallejo etc

 

but, if your ventilation permits, try MRP - they spray direct from the bottle (nothinning required) - pretty sure you will never want to go back to acrylic afterwards!

 

and yes Thunnus is correct :coolio: so your chipping on the edge of the blades is actually spot on I guess - sorry to mislead you!

 

all the best

 

Nick

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Hi John - thanks for the advice. I have tried the chipping away method using a silver primer - I may go back to this on my next build.

Thannus - Thanks for the info and great pictures.

Nick - I've heard a lot of good things about MRP, but they don't seem to have made it to Indonesia yet! What's the advantage of lacquer based paints compared to enamel / acrylic?  - they are very popular but I haven't tried them yet, although the Mr. Colour lacquer range is available. 

 

Cheers

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