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1/16 Hybride Panther (Wecohe, Tamiya, Atak, SBS Model and ......)


panzerrob

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Hi guys,

 

Construction work is done for 99.9%!

I need to drill 2 holes for the chains on the engine deck for the towing cable stays, but unfortunately my minidrill broke down, destroying my last 0.5 mm drill in the proces!

The reserve tracklinks are treated with a gun blueing agent, but this stuff is too expensive to do the whole track set (need 3 bottles of it probably!)

 

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I hope you'll like it!

 

With regards,

Rob from Holland

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9 hours ago, dodgem37 said:

Good show.  Lots of great detail.

 

Maybe sand the knock-out holes from the track?

 

Sincerely,

Mark

 

He's probably not finished yet, Mark. My only peeve (and it's just me, certainly not a criticism) is that most German tracks were made from a Manganese alloy. While Manganese alloys will indeed rust over time, typically at an armor exhibit where the vehicle has been outdoors in the weather for 75 years, the reality is that rust was generally not a "thing" on German operational vehicle tracks during WWI, when the tracks were so made.

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1 hour ago, dodgem37 said:

K2, If you look closely at the track attached to the hull you can see the knock-out impressions left over from the molding process.  Maybe remove them before treatment.  That's all I'm suggesting.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

 

Yes, ejector pin marks are a no-go, at least for me. That's why I suggested he may not be finished with it yet. Regards,

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all,

Amazing what a lot of hobbytime you get when SWMBO is away for a holiday!

The Panther is now in it's "Summer Camouflage" and some detail painting is going on.

A big disaster happened as I can not find my masks for the turretnumbers.

I know exactly how they look which makes it iesy to look for (wrapped in a blue see through plastic bag) but I've searched twice and still they are AWOL!

Hopefully I'll find them when I'm back from holiday.

 

The knock out marks on the spare tracks are removed, now I need to find out how to paint them rusty.

Also ythe wooden parts of the tools need to be painted (with oilpaints)

And finally a wash to blend in all the colors. But that can be done after I applied the turret numbers.

 

I hope you like it so far!

 

Rob from Holland

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi guys,

 

My vacation is almost over, (or better, we returned from our holiday address in Germany) and I started with painting the faces of the figures.

I strated with a brown oil paint, then kind of drybrushed most of it away, and then drybrushed a skin colour mix onto the faces and arms.

Tomorrow I'll do more work.

 

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All figures together.

 

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Step 1, you can see the brown paint in the cravices.

 

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Step 2, dry brushed the skin color on.

 

Tomorrow more (I hope!)

 

With regards,

Rob from Holland

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I decided to leave the figures as they are right now. The figures should have a "summer 1944" tan.

I'll let then dry for a few days (oilpaint dries very slowly) and then do the detail painting.

So it was back to the Panther and I airbrushed the turret numbers on.

 

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Using templates I came to this result.

 

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Then I painted the insides of the numbers.

 

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And this is how it looks now.

The numbers are shiny, it will go matt when the paint dries.

Also I will reduce the blackness with weathering, although I need to find out how to weather on zimmerit.

 

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This is what I was trying to achieve! I know the font of the numbers is different, but I am happy with the outcome.

 

The Maybach engine in front of the Panther comes from a Trumpeter Panther.

 

With regards,

Rob from Holland

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Washes and subsequent dry brushing are great ways to make the zimmerit  pattern really pop.  The amount of relief between the highs and lows lends itself very nicely to that technique.  I like to use oil based washes over an acrylic base coat.  Your choice may be different.   I would use a medium to darkish brown wash mixed with some of the base colors for each of the camo colors.  Let that dry and then start dry brushing with the base colors and lightening each as you progress until you get to where you think it almost looks right.  Then do this:  STOP, don’t do any further dry brushing until the colors cure for a few days and you see what the final contrast looks like.  Then if you need to do some further dry brushing, you’ll be doing it once, maybe twice to complete your vision.  

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