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Just wanting some opinions on what is better for making tarps, blankets, pouches, etc.

Which is better for workability, stickiness, sanding, and shaping?

 

I have used AS, but don't like the stickiness. Wanting to know if Milliput is better.

 

Tim

 

 

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So far my "go to " is Mr Pro H and Mr Pro L GSI's epoxy putties expensive and not easy to find but worth it pro-h (heavy) good general purpose with a good working time if you use Mr Colour thinners to smooth off if can feather in really well.

Mr Pro-L (light) if you use a bit of talc this will roll down to paper thin great for tarps covers and it will roll up well for bedding and stuff.

 

Bob

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The reason why I'm asking around, is because I'm having to scratchbuild this right here.

7428

It's called a SKEDCO and it used to carry the victims during a rescue. It's kinda replacing the stokes basket as the preferred method of patient transport.

 

aboutus

 

I have the straps and buckles covered already using PE, but I've tried to roll out the AP to a thin piece and it didn't work out well at all.

 

Tim

Edited by Hawkwrench
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Your SKEDCO is basically a flat plastic(?) board curved at certain angles.
I’d use a mix of 70% white milliput and 30% Kneadatite/Duro. The DURO adds flexibility to the Milliput and renders it less fragile especially when rolled into a thin sheet.

HTH

Quang

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I might even try Quangs suggestion, with maybe even the addition of making a mold of how you want the SKEDCO to look, then cover the mold with release agent or wax paper or the like and try sculpting the mix over the mold.

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17 hours ago, Hawkwrench said:

Just wanting some opinions on what is better for making tarps, blankets, pouches, etc.

Which is better for workability, stickiness, sanding, and shaping?

 

I have used AS, but don't like the stickiness. Wanting to know if Milliput is better.

 

Tim

 

 

The trick with Apoxie Sculpt is to wait a bit before working it. Also, they make a chemical in a dropper bottle that you apply while you are forming to help smooth it out- you can get it really thin-

Im away from the bench right now, but I’ll try to remember to dig out that chemical for you-

 

However; you might be able to scratch that out of lead foil formed over a wood master-

 

P

Edited by Pete Fleischmann
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I'd try and use plastic sheet 0.010" or thereabouts.  You can cut, form, and bend it as needed.  You can either heat form the curves using a wooden form as Pete suggested or use the PE straps (if they're adhered well enough) to augment hand-made bends.  It might also be easier on you to add those brass ringed holes to a plastic part than in a two-part epoxy part.

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1 minute ago, quang said:

Yeah but how do you pull the formed plasticard out of the wood ‘mould’? :crying:

 

I would think you would make the wooden mold with a step under it to get the lower edges formed correctly, then leave the mold open at the bottom, and when done just remove the vac pull as normal.

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It took me 15 minutes to do this with only the ICM 1/32 WASP figure as reference. Just to show how the method works.

 

1- White Milliput balls just prior to be kneaded

37777318-A1-B9-4967-9218-37-E38-EC4-D969

 

2-Milliput thoroughly mixed
731539-FF-3-DF1-402-C-B970-5568-C985-E24

 

3-Rolled into a thin sheet. With plenty of talcum powder
C67-B8-D3-D-2-BC1-40-BD-8189-D58-CEE987-

 

4-Piece of foam representing the ‘casualty’.
DA6418-EC-3907-4422-9-E06-A13-BBBBF8-F2-


5- Milliput sheet cut to shape
BCBC014-D-A6-C0-4141-80-F9-2-B88258-C3-E

 

6- Fold edges. Edges can be worked for 30minutes while the Mill hardens.
Will fully cure overnight after which it can de drilled, sanded and painted as you wish.
 

5-A47-F682-E7-BF-4-E63-B759-E74-D25-C82-


 

If you have any question, just shoot.

Cheers,

Quang

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