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Best liquid cement I. Your opinion please


oyoy5

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5 hours ago, thierry laurent said:

Well do not take that for granted. This is not so obvious in other languages as the name can be slightly different. For instance, in French, this is Methyl Ethyl Cetone.

 

4 hours ago, GrahamC said:

 

Indeed. Variations in different languages can be confusing. I suspect Thierry's comment is more about it's French spelling being méthyl éthyl cétone

 

I did a quick search for different names for MEK:

 

MEK, 2-Butanone, Butan-2-one, Butanone, Methyl acetone,  are all used ethyl methyl ketone 

 

cheers, Graham

 

 

Great!

 

Now go look for something with MEK on the label that ISN'T Methyl Ethyl Ketone, and you will have found the spirit of his question and my response. ;)

 

D

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46 minutes ago, quang said:

Old timers may (or may not :rolleyes:) remember that the only liquid polystyrene glue available in Europe in the 1970s was the MEK PAK manufactured by Slater’s of the Plasticard fame.

The name says it all.
 

Still use it Quang, and good stuff it is too! 
Regards from an Old Timer., 

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+1  on Tam Extra thin ...

 

although still have the occasional use for Revell Contacta - good for hard to get a,t or low surface area joints , it fills as little as well and has a resonable working time .  

 

I can remember the days when it was this style of cement or nothing .....like trying to knit with sledgehammers ...

 

s-l1600.jpg

 

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Max, I still had the older brown square bottle untilI moved house last summer.
Anyhow I did a quick search on the internet. It appears that the current Mek-Pak is not MEK anymore after George Slater (who started the business) was found unconscious on the floor after a leakage. They changed the formula since.

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No regrets Max as the Tamiya extra thin works better than Mek-Pak.
Better still IMO is the Mr.Cement S (whatever the S, reminds me of the mythic Revell “S” cement) which I discovered recently. Sets instantly, no visible smear and firmer grip than the Tamiya. The smell reminds me strongly of ...the  chloroform I used to bond perspex (plexiglass) back in the days. B)

88711-BE1-6609-4-F16-8-B53-A9-C8-F8-D613

 

Cheers,

Quang

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My earliest recollection of plastic cement was also a tube glue my uncle used on a Monogram half-track he built for me.
I don’t know what it was but it burned and left blisters on your skin. Believe me guys, those were dangerous times! :wacko:

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I use these 3:

 

-detail parts that fit well: Tamiya Extra Thin or Mr Cement S, depending on what my LHS has in stock

-less-fitting parts or stuff that needs some "fill": Revell Contacta with the needle

-(old Roden WW1) parts that that are somewhat near to fitting and can't be made to fit better, yet still need strength: Revell tube glue (it seems to contain clear sprue I've read somewhere). -> I put a blob of tube glue on a piece of tape and apply it with an old brush or cocktail stick, when TET does not work I do the same with my kids when building a model.

 

I hardly glue fuselage seams with TET as it only "melts" the styrene and does not add anything which seems to cause ghost seams later on, especially on kits made of softer plastic. On kits made of harder plastic (Hasegawa e.g.) this doesn't seem to be happening as much.

 

Jeroen

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I do not use anymore the Revell Contacta needle type as, at least to me, it is more difficult to control where glue is going as well as the quantity that goes out than when I'm using the bottle with brush type. Alas they stopped using the clear glass bottle to move to a blue plastic Tippex type. So you do not know either what is remaining inside.

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