Jeff T Posted February 10, 2021 Share Posted February 10, 2021 Very nice work on the engine Brian! I didnt realise how small this aircraft was until you posted those two pics of it near your hand, ...it looks way smaller than any of the WW1 aircraft I have done in this scale. Cheer's, Jeff. Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted February 10, 2021 Author Share Posted February 10, 2021 Thanks Jeff. Yep, its a tiny beast, even compared to the D.VII on my shelf. Im hoping this week/weekend I can sort out the cockpit and get that ready to apply the Aviatic interior decals. Uncarina, Jeff T and LSP_K2 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kensar Posted February 15, 2021 Share Posted February 15, 2021 Very nice work on that engine, Brian. Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted February 15, 2021 Author Share Posted February 15, 2021 Thanks! I've got a bit more progress to show, just need to get my new pics organized. LSP_K2 and Wolf Buddee 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted February 17, 2021 Author Share Posted February 17, 2021 Ok, a bit late on the progress but hey ho............. Starting off with just some pit work. I have the side interiors of the fuselage painted with MRP white which is fairly glossy right out of the bottle. I then applied the Aviatic interior decals, both wooden and fabric, for the seat, behind seat bulkhead and sides of fuselage. Everything just freshly painted here and dry fit. Nothing glued, weathered ect. The wooden floor is painted with MRP non-bleached linen and covered with Uschi wood decal: The Aviatic fabric decals do look great up close and personal. They will look even better once not so glossy and shot with a flat coat. Fit is DEFINITELY WnW like: One of the smaller things that is a bit annoying lookin (to me anyway) is there is a space (an accurate space I believe though) between the back edge of the wooden cockpit floor and the behind seat bulkhead. Not super sure what is should look like, but in the model it allows the lower fuselage seam to possibly be seen. So, not 100% what it should look like I cut some thin plastic card and will paint it wood to hide the lower seam. The seat bulkhead also needs to have its decals applied, and painted and weathered as well. Not 100% it will be fully visible when done, but dont want to take a chance: A fairly cool feature that none have brought up yet, that isn't a huge deal, but kinda cool to me, is the free floating PE. No little nubs to sand off here, just remove the backing and then front covering, anneal it and then paint! I've got all the interior finished up mostly, and a flat coat applied to the bare wood and fabric areas. I still have to detail paint, weather and assemble things, but Im well on my way to completing the interior. I also managed to come up with a corrected Voss cowl face too, as the OOB decal is a blatant rip off of the horribly incorrect Roden decals it appears to me. If you would like a copy of the correcte Voss face, please stop by the Scale Model Paint Mask forums: https://www.scalemodelpaintmasks.com/index.php?/topic/414-werner-voss-corrected-cowl-face/ All for now gents Lightpainter, scvrobeson, kensar and 14 others 16 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monthebiff Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Nice update Brian and looking good, you currently have me looking at am to make a start on mine! Regards. Andy Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Very interesting little project, Brian! Can you go over the annealing process in a little more detail? Why do you do it and how? coogrfan and Out2gtcha 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 Nice progress, Brian! Kev Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncarina Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 Great work as always Brian! Very inspiring, and I do love the decal effects. Cheers, Tom Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 The woodgrain and fabric effects look great! Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sepp Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 Excellent work - and a big thumbs-up for that PE... I absolutely hate trimming the inevitable tags off itty-bitty parts. Please let it be a glimpse of the future! Uncarina and Out2gtcha 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted February 18, 2021 Author Share Posted February 18, 2021 Thanks guys! 15 hours ago, Thunnus said: Very interesting little project, Brian! Can you go over the annealing process in a little more detail? Why do you do it and how? Really nothing to it John. I rarely ever use PE seatbelts, but with WWI stuff I tend to do OOB with them. The Meng PE belts are not quite as thick as the steel plate like PE in older Trumpeter kits, but their PE is still fairly thick, thicker than your average Eduard stuff. This has led me to annealing them. Really it only takes an average cigarette type lighter. I just held the lighter under the PE belt sections while I held onto them with some locking tweezers until they start turning colors (red, gold, green, bluish). After that, just let the PE cool down naturally, and you have nice flexible no longer "springy" PE belts. They now will confirm really well to the seat, and act much more like lead than brass, and lose much of their memory. You can even display PE belts with small wrinkles twists in them for added interest, without having them spring out of position. 12 hours ago, Sepp said: Excellent work - and a big thumbs-up for that PE... I absolutely hate trimming the inevitable tags off itty-bitty parts. Please let it be a glimpse of the future! Agreed! I really love not having to trim minuscule nubs off already delicate PE parts. These Meng PE belts are super simplified, and not really very accurate for the DR.1, but I bent and painted them up as best I could, as in the end they turned out looking very decent. Cheers! Uncarina, Lightpainter and Sepp 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncarina Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 Another nice reason to anneal is to make the mg cooling jackets more pliable when you roll them into a cylinder. Note the duration of heat exposure needed can vary considerably, depending on the type and thickness of metal. I have “fond” memories of annealing Tamiya photoetch, which can be thick as a dinner plate! Cheers, Tom Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted February 18, 2021 Author Share Posted February 18, 2021 4 minutes ago, Uncarina said: Another nice reason to anneal is to make the mg cooling jackets more pliable when you roll them into a cylinder. Note the duration of heat exposure needed can vary considerably, depending on the type and thickness of metal. I have “fond” memories of annealing Tamiya photoetch, which can be thick as a dinner plate! Cheers, Tom Yep! The Meng PE is not quite as thick as that nor the old Trumpy stuff, but thicker than modern Eduard PE. And yes was going to do the exact same thing with the MG cooling jackets, as it will give me a chance to use my very rarely used Small Stuff PE roller. While much thinner than the old Tamiya stuff, this Meng stuff is thick enough to hold a lighter flame under for 30 - 60 seconds no issue at all. Uncarina 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 Looking great, Brian. Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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