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Solido 1/18 Porsche 935/78 Moby Dick


Pascal
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  • 4 weeks later...

Update.

 

I forgot to show the photo's that i took right before the floorboard got it's colors. These show the result of lots of sanding :

 

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The frame has been glued to the floorboard. The 2 diagonal tubes are from a different type of aluminium because they are a lot shinier on the real car :

 

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The seat has been gleud to it's frame, then the frame was glued to the rails. I had to remove about 4 mm on each side of the seat, so that it will fit in the cockpit :

 

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The pedalbox was completely rebuild. The part on the left was scratchbuild and has 11 parts :

 

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The rectangular strip with the diagonal part was also scratchbuild :

 

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Dryfit. The pedalbox sits to high, will be fixed before it's glued to the floorboard  :

 

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The gauges on the dashboard received a tiny circles of transparent plastic, these were sealed with Parket + :

 

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The part with the 5 gauges will be sanded flat from the rear and the grey decal will be removed :

 

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Sincerely

 

Pascal

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  • 2 months later...

This model keeps fighting me all the way, but here's a little progress :

 

The dashboard looked like this :

 

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Solido added sidewalls to the center console these were removed and some circles were added to the back of the dials :

 

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A lot of work goes into the modification of the body. Before :

 

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And after. I will need to add a couple more layers of white paint, then polish it :

 

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Big difference between the modified and the un-modified side :

 

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Solido put a grey circle around the number on the doors. This was not on the 1/1 car, so these were removed with a knife and a toothpick. The photo shows that I started on the right side  :

 

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The glass covers for the headlights were glued badly to the body. The covers also have some very ugly square pegs :

 

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I removed the pegs and the CA-glue with sandpaper, the one on the left has been polished :

 

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The glass cover fit very poorly because the inner parts are to big. The one on the left has been sanded to the correct size, quite a bit of plastic has been removed ;

 

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2cb5482c4a3c024783046b3e22a53f48.jpg

 

 

Sincerely

 

Pascal

Edited by Pascal
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Wheel covers, part 2.

 

Wasn't happy with the first modification, so I went a bit further. These are the covers for the rear wheels. Used the bolt to fix them in the chuck of my drill, about 1 mm of plastic was scraped off. (didn't use the lathe cause I don't want to put my fingers that close to the lathe chuck) :

 

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The ring was removed from the backside :

 

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Before :

 

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And after. Not there yet, still have to remove some plastic from the inside of the wheel, so that the cover can sit deeper inside the wheel :

 

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These are the covers for the front wheels. The modified cover is a lot thinner and the diameter is smaller  :

 

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To get the cover to sit deeper inside the wheels, I removed some plastic and filed the spokes one-by-one to about half the original size. A VERY therapeutic job ! (later on I'll add a new wheelnut and a ring with the bolts) :

 

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Before :

 

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Afer :

 

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Hope to do the other 2 tomorrow. It took about 3 hours to modify the first 2.

 

Sincerely

 

Pascal

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  • 3 weeks later...

Been very busy making tiny parts. These parts need to be metal, so I used metal foil that's wrapped around the top of winebottles. First task was to remove the paint :

 

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I made the handle with my lathe. Started with a bigger diameter alu rod, because it's easier to cut the slit in the rod.

 

The handle needs a bit more work to make it straight.

 

With the lathe, I cut the rod to the correct diameter, also made the button on top in the same way.

 

The triangular part that holds the handle was made from the metal foil. The Solido part is on the right :

 

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The handle will receive 2 eyeybolts. The thread and ring of the eyebolts will be removed :

 

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This part was also made from metal foil. Was a hard job to bend it into the correct shape, especially the tiny sides :

 

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The Solido part on the right is quite different :

 

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The 2 small holes will receive tiny 0,8 outer diameter open brass rivets. These rivets will hold the green cables. A family photo of the first parts :

 

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These reference photo show how everything fits together :

 

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For reference purpose only

 

The roll cage gives me some big headaches. Both the roll cage and the interior were extensively modified.

 

The result is that they no longer fit together without using some force.

 

I broke off a piece of the roll cage during the endless dryfitting. Not to bad because it needs a bit more work at exactly the spot where it broke off :

 

fcf7f04da346e2aef530420c993d5d98.jpg

 

 

Another big headache is the dashboard. Solido had fixed the dashboard to the underside of the body.

 

In order to fit all the pieces and cables, it needs to be fixed to the interior. Here's a dryfit, the 2 holes show how the dash was attached to the body :

 

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The underside of the dashboard also needs to be fixed to the diagonal tubes. I made a tray for it, but that's not on the photo :

 

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Here I inserted the left diagonal tube. The spacing between the tubes is to big, but that will be better when the left tube will be glued in place :

 

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And last but not least, the dashboard needs to fit snugly against the roll cage. At the moment that's another headache, tough it looks fine during the dryfit :

 

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It's gonna be a lot of work to fit the roll cage, dashboard, fire-extinguishers, cables and all the other tiny parts together.

 

Wish me luck.

 

Sincerely

 

Pascal

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  • 6 months later...

Update :

 

It took a lot of time to find a way to make the tiny parts for the gear lever, shaft and all the details that surround it.

 

On the right side of the photo, you can see the coupling of the gearbox shaft :

 

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Solido made the coupling like this :

 

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I kept the rear part of the coupling and modified it :

 

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The front part of the coupling is made from piece of alu rod :

 

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These are some of the parts that I will use for the gear lever and shaft.

 

From top to bottom : 

 

Steel rod (from a large paperclip).

The little piece on the right that sits on top is a modified piece from a lighter.

Steel tube from a cable ferrule.

Scratchbuild front part of the coupling.

 

Still have to make the tiny square block for the shaft :

 

a6a35e82ce276e4b57658f0ea6e4a7a9.jpg

 

 

Dryfit, the cockpit has received some cables and braided wire, fixed in place with painted lead foil from a winebottle :

 

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To make the gear lever, I soldere a piece of  copper wire to an eyebolt. The photo shows a dryfit with a M1 hex bolt and nut :

 

d6bf9e01bb33aae1f8149e083230ca68.jpg

 

 

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The little ball has a diameter of 2,5 mm, it's from a kit to make necklaces :

 

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The front of the gear lever housing will get these tiny parts :

 

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Hex nut, turned piece of alu rod, smaller nod and the lid I made with the lathe :

 

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This dryfit shows that it's to high, the piece of alu rod will be shortened :

 

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It will be quite an adventure to fit and glue all these tiny parts together.

 

Sincerely

 

Pascal

Edited by Pascal
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  • 2 weeks later...

Update : 

 

Using copper wire I made the V-shaped bracket that's welded to the diagonal tube. Painted and glued in place (the white stuff is flour + CA) :

 

3187aef2a210862114952dac4c08a9e7.jpg

 

 

But I didn't look good and didn't look like the real car.

 

It was then that I realized that I made a big mistake. The tube diagonal tubes that run through the top of the firewall sit to low :

 

d16ea78c572ef5484fe4eb23a1f9d2a3.jpg

 

 

The big black bump on the firewall needs to be some 5-6 mm higher :

 

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To modify the bump, I have to take the entire construction of the interior apart. I highly doubt that the parts will survive that kind of treatment.

 

So, I decided to leave the bump and make a new tube.

 

The old one and the V-shaped bracket were removed. Very gently because that part of the construction is fragile :

 

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Installed a new tube and a new V-shaped bracket :

 

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Much better :

 

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The V-shaped bracket will hold this lever. It's made up of 7 parts, the tubes on the left side will be the same length when everything is installed :

 

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The eyebolt were carefully filed to a much smaller size :

 

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Tiny piece, the square is 10 x 10 mm :

 

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I'm glad that I found a solution to the problem, even though it's not perfect, it will hardly be noticable when all the parts are installed.

 

But it will be quite a challenge to assemble all the parts in that limited space.

 

We'll see...

 

Pascal MNTADO (*)

 

(*) Motivation Never Takes A Day Off

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  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

It's been quite a struggle to find a way to fix all the scratchbuild parts together.

 

These are the parts that will be fitted to the lever (brake balance lever ?) that's just to the left behind the gear lever.

 

The tubes are made from injection needles :

 

1244e1e58991c052ba8d0e170d42b676.jpg

 

 

Dryfit in the cockpit :

 

d7d8fd5a82ab2c8d5d2130df17d7dc01.jpg

 

 

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With the tubes, not connected to the eyebolts because - at this stage - they aren't long enough :

 

ab153590ebe09bf7eae64b3094cdc1cf.jpg

 

 

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They're not parallel, this will be fixed later :

 

a5ad1b8bfc899a7eccaa6dd2ace37e51.jpg

 

 

Made another piece of tubing to get the correct length :

 

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Now the tubes are long enough, so they fit over the eyebolts. Macro photo shows there's some cleaning to do :

 

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New dryfit :

 

df0b0a1c8a4a2d463b9136348e3a4bfc.jpg

 

 

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One hurdle completed, on to the next one.

Edited by Pascal
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Update :

 

I finally managed to glue (using CA and J&B weld) the gear lever and it's housing to the tubes in the cockpit.

 

The macro photos shows the dust that is left after sanding the J&B weld :

 

a8734ad5ff592fb4c3db923d6f936b1d.jpg

 

 

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This photo shows the medium grey J&B weld that I put between the tube and the housing to get a strong bond :

 

2fcf3fe8a2a263a33a2855d05c8fd2ff.jpg

 

 

This is the tube that connects the gear lever to the gearbox, 8 parts in total. The right part is the only part that came with the Solido model, the rest was scratched.

 

The little tube on the left that sits over the larger tube is a modified part from a lighter :

 

cde1fe982c731d236fd9a9dcf3a8cacd.jpg

 

 

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Dryfit. The bottom part of the gear lever will be glued inside the little vertical tube that I put on the large tube :

 

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Not to much to show, but it's a BIG step forward.

 

Sincerely

 

Pascal

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  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Finally the work on the interior is coming to an end.

 

The fire extinguishers are scratch build and have 16 parts, they look real nice with the decals designed and printed by Tim :

 

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I added some more details and wires :

 

f04f5aa5a4119c573600a92c3180dbe7.jpg

 

 

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Dryfit with the dashboard :

 

e11aaf662bae8a443c7ceb6dbd9b5900.jpg

 

 

This is how the interior looked before the work began :

 

308798c3f4403ec70ea2cfbbd07fc5c7.jpg

 

 

I still need to find a way to glue the dashboard firmly in place.

 

Then it will be a delicate job to put the seat in after the rollcage is fitted. Not enough space to do it the other way round.

 

Finally the radio, some tiny home-made parts, and the seatbelts need to be installed.

 

After that, the interior is done.

 

Hope to reach the finish line in 3 - 4 weeks.

 

Sincerely

 

Pascal

Edited by Pascal
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