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1/32 Special Hobby Hawker Tempest V - Fairbanks JJ+F


Thunnus

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14 hours ago, Derek B said:

I think that your spinner is definitely improved in shape John, so your efforts have been far from wasted. This is one reason why I enquired of the kit spinner wall thickness and the possibility of lining it with an additional layer of epoxy putty internally in the more critical areas in order to allow you to really take it down without too much fear of getting it to the shape you require before any 'break through' occurs due to the plastic becoming too thin.

 

Really great build so far John, I am enjoying it (I the PCM kit, which may be the same mouldings - I don't know? However, your build (and experiences) will help me).

 

Cheers

 

Derek

 

Thanks Derek!  Ah... now I understand about the adding putty to the inside of the spinner.  The plastic is pretty thick and my initial assessment was that I had plenty of room to work with but I'd better double check that!  And yes, the PCM kit, from my understanding is a completely different mold than the Special Hobby kit.

 

 

13 hours ago, MARU5137 said:

Super workmanship John.

Looking splendid. 

:clap2:

 

Thank you so much for following!

 

 

2 hours ago, scvrobeson said:

Keep soldiering through John.  I know you'll tackle any issue with your high level of craftsmanship.  I've got the Mk.II High Tech in the stash, so I'm taking notes.

 

That seat is very accurate, can't wait to see what you do with it.

 

 

Matt 

 

I always get jazzed when I come across really detailed resin bits.  It really inspires you to do justice to it with the paint job.  It will be fun to work on this cockpit once I get rolling!

 

 

20 minutes ago, John Stambaugh said:

The improvement of the reworked spinner is obvious and for me would be quite acceptable.

 

Yes, that is what I want to hear!  Progress is so slow and gradual, it's like watching a plant grow.  But now that I compare the before and after pics, I can see the difference too.

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Thanks Anthony!  Thanks Mike!  I don't have many reference photos for the Tempest cockpit so every little bit helps!

 

Still in a holding pattern while I wait for a new spinner to arrive.  I decided to saw off the solid end of the kit fuselage to accommodate the resin engine.  Using that big Tamiya saw, it's kinda fun sawing things off now.  With that done, I can now do a very preliminary dry fit of the resin engine onto the fuselage.  With the latest removal and the previous removal of the top of the engine cowlings from the nose section, there is a significantly reduced area for a glue connection.  I was surprised I was able to get this to stay together with just tape and gravity.
IMG-1588.jpg


IMG-1589.jpg


IMG-1590.jpg


IMG-1591.jpg

 

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A few small cockpit tips John, which you likely know already, but I offer them to you anyway just in case:

 

1)  Nothing behind the seat can be seen when you install Part E14, so don't bother with any painting or detailing there.  The oxygen tank on Part J6 that's hard to paint anyway, comes to mind.  Waste of time.

 

2)  Any cockpit parts that you can't see from directly from above, are also a waste of time to detail correctly, like the seat spring.  You can't  see the seat spring from the sides after closing up the fuselage- unless you have a flashlight and magnifying glass.  ;)

 

3)  Don't worry about lots of electrical and hydraulic lines in the cockpit, unless they are at the top.  See above.

 

 

Model on John.  You are one of my favorite LSP builders and I always learn a lot from your build threads, like this one.  Great photography, great explanations of everything, so fun to watch.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

 

 

Edited by chuck540z3
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3 hours ago, chuck540z3 said:

A few small cockpit tips John, which you likely know already, but I offer them to you anyway just in case:

 

1)  Nothing behind the seat can be seen when you install Part E14, so don't bother with any painting or detailing there.  The oxygen tank on Part J6 that's hard to paint anyway, comes to mind.  Waste of time.

 

2)  Any cockpit parts that you can't see from directly from above, are also a waste of time to detail correctly, like the seat spring.  You can't  see the seat spring from the sides after closing up the fuselage- unless you have a flashlight and magnifying glass.  ;)

 

3)  Don't worry about lots of electrical and hydraulic lines in the cockpit, unless they are at the top.  See above.

 

 

Model on John.  You are one of my favorite LSP builders and I always learn a lot from your build threads, like this one.  Great photography, great explanations of everything, so fun to watch.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

 

 

 

I've been referring to your build and really appreciate the step by step process you outlined.  Details didn't register at the time of initial viewing but now that I am getting familiar with the kit, I can see and recognize many of the issues that you describe.  There are probably details that I am going to spend time on that will not see the light of day but I do those things because they spark an interest. So I may do some wiring just for fun... it seems easier in a way to incorporate wiring into the tubular structure of the cockpit.  I'm in no rush and will take this one very slow.

 

 

32 minutes ago, scvrobeson said:

So you're back to the plastic cowling, or are you waiting for the resin nose for the new spinner?  Either way, it will come out well.  Look forward to seeing the cockpit come together.

 

 

 

Matt 

 

I haven't decided yet.  I'm keeping the two options separate.  The new spinner will be one piece of the puzzle but not the whole enchilada.  These is also the fit of the engine at the base of the spinner.  There is nice detail on the resin engine and I'm afraid that it may have to get shaved down to accommodate the narrower resin nose.  So I'm keeping my options open for now.

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On 2/20/2021 at 10:37 PM, Thunnus said:

  There are probably details that I am going to spend time on that will not see the light of day but I do those things because they spark an interest.

 

That's why I mentioned the bungee cords. Other modeler's have fun doing that kind of detail too.

Also , I wanted to thank you for the news about Roy doing a new spinner. I didn't know that but

it's nice to know.

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On 2/20/2021 at 11:26 AM, MikeMaben said:

Just a point re the seat,  those horizontal lines across the back are bunjee cords.

 

KXzbyNw.jpg

 

C3VIGXs.jpg

 

 

 

Useful images Mike - thank you. it does make me wonder if the 'bungee cords' (which are actually steel helicoil springs) were ever originally covered or just left in their metal protective treatment? (I suspect the latter).  

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22 hours ago, MikeMaben said:

 

That's why I mentioned the bungee cords. Other modeler's have fun doing that kind of detail too.

Also , I wanted to thank you for the news about Roy doing a new spinner. I didn't know that but

it's nice to know.

 

22 hours ago, Derek B said:

 

Useful images Mike - thank you. it does make me wonder if the 'bungee cords' (which are actually steel helicoil springs) were ever originally covered or just left in their metal protective treatment? (I suspect the latter).  

 

Thanks guys!  I probably won't go "next level" on those spring/bungee cords by replacing them with spring facsimiles but I'll try and paint them at least.

 

I played around with a few things on the Tempest build.  The resin wheels were cut from their casting blocks, cleaned up and leveled on the bottom.  They are represented as weighted with a flat spot and slight bulge around the contact area.
IMG-1664.jpg

 

 

The kit tires are also weighted but the resin versions feature noticeably more detail on the sidewalls and hub.
IMG-1665.jpg

 

 

I wanted to see if the tail gear bay would give me any problems.  It is a three-part affair that had given Chuck some fit issues.  I used Tamiya Extra Thin cement to attach the pieces together thinking that I could pull them apart if I encountered any obstacles.
IMG-1668.jpg

 

 

The tail gear bay dropped into position without a hitch.  I temporarily secured it with a blob of Blue Tack.
IMG-1667.jpg

 

 

Seems ok with the fuselage halves taped together.  No issues here!
IMG-1666.jpg

 

Edited by Thunnus
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23 hours ago, Derek B said:

 

Useful images Mike - thank you. it does make me wonder if the 'bungee cords' (which are actually steel helicoil springs) were ever originally covered or just left in their metal protective treatment? (I suspect the latter).  

Don't know for sure Derek , but the British did 'invent' the name and they were used

in other applications like retracting the step on Hurricanes.   :shrug:

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33 minutes ago, MikeMaben said:

Don't know for sure Derek , but the British did 'invent' the name and they were used

in other applications like retracting the step on Hurricanes.   :shrug:

 

Hi Mike,

The origin of the word 'Bungee' is uncertain, however, you are correct that they have been in use since the 30's for various aircraft retraction purposes, but they are always composed of strands of rubber encased in a fabric sheathing, so are not really the same thing that we see on the Tempest seat. Interestingly, in a former life, I used to work with Bungee cords a lot as part of my career maintaining and packing parachutes (they were officially called hooked pack opening elastics in this case).

 

Cheers

 

Derek

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4 hours ago, Thunnus said:

 

 

Thanks guys!  I probably won't go "next level" on those spring/bungee cords by replacing them with spring facsimiles but I'll try and paint them at least.

 

I played around with a few things on the Tempest build.  The resin wheels were cut from their casting blocks, cleaned up and leveled on the bottom.  They are represented as weighted with a flat spot and slight bulge around the contact area.
IMG-1664.jpg

 

 

The kit tires are also weighted but the resin versions feature noticeably more detail on the sidewalls and hub.
IMG-1665.jpg

 

 

I wanted to see if the tail gear bay would give me any problems.  It is a three-part affair that had given Chuck some fit issues.  I used Tamiya Extra Thin cement to attach the pieces together thinking that I could pull them apart if I encountered any obstacles.
IMG-1668.jpg

 

 

The tail gear bay dropped into position without a hitch.  I temporarily secured it with a blob of Blue Tack.
IMG-1667.jpg

 

 

Seems ok with the fuselage halves taped together.  No issues here!
 

 

John,

 

The reason you had no fit issues with the tail wheel assembly is because you put it together correctly and I did not!   :doh:  Rookie mistake on my part and a bit embarrassing, but it still turned out looking OK in the end.  Thank you very much for the heads up, because my build will be in an eBook soon and I have removed any references to modifying this assembly, since it really isn't required.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

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On 2/23/2021 at 4:10 AM, chuck540z3 said:

 

John,

 

The reason you had no fit issues with the tail wheel assembly is because you put it together correctly and I did not!   :doh:  Rookie mistake on my part and a bit embarrassing, but it still turned out looking OK in the end.  Thank you very much for the heads up, because my build will be in an eBook soon and I have removed any references to modifying this assembly, since it really isn't required.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

 

Pretty easy to make that mistake since he rearmost bulkhead has a raised edge on one side... one might assume that this detail side faces outward but should not.

 

I finally received my cockpit color (Mr Hobby Aircraft Gray Green  #364) so I thought I would tackle the instrument panel.  It is provided in three parts and I've decided to keep the parts separate during the painting phase. Painted black has a way of sucking all of the detail from an area so I wanted to try and void that on the black instrument panel.  The panel itself was painted Tamiya Nato Black, which is actually a black green color.  The instrument dials were then painted straight black.  I painted one of the dials red based on the reference photo I am using.  The yellow box wasn't necessary as the decal already has this depicted.
IMG-1671.jpg

 

 

The Special Hobby decal sheet provides the instrumentation as decals.  It can be difficult to align these instrument panel decals so that the instruments fall into their appropriate dials.  Separating them into smaller sections helps but I went the extra step of punching each of the individual instruments and placing them one by one.
IMG-1672.jpg


IMG-1675.jpg

 

 

After the instrument dials were put into place, the instrument panel was given a flat coat.  I normally like to drop in punched disks of clear acetate for each instrument but I didn't think the raised bezels were high enough to accommodate acetate.  Instead I just applied a drop of Future into each of the dials.
IMG-1677.jpg

 

I need to add the compass and weather the panel a little bit before I call it finished.

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