TankBuster Posted May 30, 2022 Share Posted May 30, 2022 Outstanding painting. Cheers. Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nighthawk Calling 1 Posted May 30, 2022 Share Posted May 30, 2022 2 hours ago, Thunnus said: Continuing on with the underwing roundels... after the white has dried, the whole interior mask (3-pieces) are carefully placed within the outline mask on the model. To help keep the pieces together, I use a piece of tape. The largest outer ring is removed, leaving the two center pieces in place. Save this removed mask because you'll need it. The blue color, which was a mix of Tamiya Royal Blue and Black, is sprayed next. After the blue is dry, the previously removed outer ring is put back into place and now the center circle is removed. It can be difficult to align the masks so that the all of the edges are flush with one another. To guard against paint seepage, I glop on some Micro Mask around the outlines. The red is the last color to be sprayed. This is a mix of Tamiya Red and a touch of Royal Blue. The completed underwing roundel. The painted markings on the bottom, including the yellow wing edges, have been completed. The prop blades have been glued into the spinner using tube glue since I can't access the joint directly with Tamiya Extra Thin cement. The previously shown black stripe area has been repaired. There is some texture here but I think it will be taken care of by the subsequent clear coats. Fantastic work on the rounders, just superb all round. Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted May 30, 2022 Share Posted May 30, 2022 3 hours ago, Thunnus said: Apologies if you've already mentioned it somewhere before, John, but what was your weathering process for the prop blades? Kev Thunnus and JayW 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayW Posted May 30, 2022 Share Posted May 30, 2022 (edited) Beautiful painting. Question - how do you know what colors to mix to get the final color? Like a "touch of Royal Blue" added to Tamiya red. Edited May 30, 2022 by JayW Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted May 31, 2022 Author Share Posted May 31, 2022 18 hours ago, TankBuster said: Outstanding painting. Cheers. Thank you very much! Still much more to come! 17 hours ago, Nighthawk Calling 1 said: Fantastic work on the rounders, just superb all round. Thank you! I think the underwing roundel blue is too light but I'm not sure if I'm going to fix that or not. 16 hours ago, LSP_Kevin said: Apologies if you've already mentioned it somewhere before, John, but what was your weathering process for the prop blades? Kev No problems, Kevin... the blades were slightly chipped on the edges using hairspray and also drybrushing. They were then given a couple of rounds of salt fading using khaki and grey to add some subtle stains. You can't see them from the front but the backs of the blades show more exposed metal than the fronts... 15 hours ago, JayW said: Beautiful painting. Question - how do you know what colors to mix to get the final color? Like a "touch of Royal Blue" added to Tamiya red. Thanks Jay! Ahhh... I should've mentioned that. I mixed the colors to match the decals that were included with the kit. Tamiya Royal Blue and Red didn't match out of the bottle so I added a little black to the blue and a tad of Royal Blue to the red. Work on the painted markings continued today. Mixed in with household chores on this holiday, of course. Trying to replace the kitchen faucet and I can't get the old one out! I decided to do the remainder of the RAF roundels in one go. Generally speaking, I worked from outside to inside, ending up with the dark red in the centers. There were a few areas where the paint pulled up. All of it on the blue, which makes sense because I think I jumped the gun and applied the masks on the blue a little too soon. Again... the patience thing rears its head. I spent the rest of the day conducting spot repairs on all of the masked markings. The entire model was gently buffed with a clean t-shirt and the painted markings were smoothed further with Micromesh. Still have to do the individual machine markings by masks as well as the black walkways at the wing roots. But here is where we are at currently. scvrobeson, mc65, Fanes and 19 others 22 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ade rowlands Posted May 31, 2022 Share Posted May 31, 2022 Great work. What grades of micro mesh do you use to knock back any raised edges you may have from the painted on markings? Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted May 31, 2022 Share Posted May 31, 2022 This is all so very nice. Sincerely, Mark Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted May 31, 2022 Author Share Posted May 31, 2022 10 hours ago, ade rowlands said: Great work. What grades of micro mesh do you use to knock back any raised edges you may have from the painted on markings? Thanks! I like to use 3600 or 4000... something with a little "bite" to catch the edges of raised paint. If necessary, I'll go back with 6000 or 8000 to remove any visible scuff marks but its usually fine for flat finished models. 8 hours ago, dodgem37 said: This is all so very nice. Sincerely, Mark Thanks Mark! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaninaustria Posted May 31, 2022 Share Posted May 31, 2022 She’s a beauty!! I like that you show us the small mistakes along the way and how you fix them… helps keep things real! Outstanding build going on here!! Luv it!! Thanks for sharing! Cheers Alan Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted May 31, 2022 Share Posted May 31, 2022 Awesome work with the paint and masks John. It's really coming alive now. Matt Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted June 1, 2022 Author Share Posted June 1, 2022 7 hours ago, alaninaustria said: She’s a beauty!! I like that you show us the small mistakes along the way and how you fix them… helps keep things real! Outstanding build going on here!! Luv it!! Thanks for sharing! Cheers Alan Thanks Alan! I do lots of fixing of mistakes. Especially during the masking stage. I've become quite adept at using micro-quantities in the airbrush to perform paint repairs. 1 hour ago, scvrobeson said: Awesome work with the paint and masks John. It's really coming alive now. Matt Thanks Matt! Yes, she's coming right along now! The serial numbers have been painted. When I tried to place the "JJ" code, I found that is to large for the space that is between the serial number and fuselage roundel. The masks are traced from the decals so either the serial number or roundel is slightly out of position. Probably the roundel. But there is no way I am going to redo the roundel so I measured how much I'd have to squeeze the JJ down to make it fit. About 0.4mm. These types of adjustments are super easy to make in AutoCAD. I wanted to keep the height and thickness of the letters intact so I simply cut out a 0.2mm section of the horizontal part of each "J" to get the 0.4mm reduction. The JJ+F codes are painted in Sky, same as the tail band. For anyone using this type of vinyl mask, framing the mask with sections of paper like I've done make it MUCH easier to slide the mask into the correct position without the adhesive catching the model prematurely because of the vinyl bending. The codes fresh after mask removal. I still need to rub down the raised edges. FYI... I used the original "JJ" on the port side so the JJ's are different from one side to the other but I don't think it will be noticeable. The only other painted marking left are the black walkways on the wing roots. Nighthawk Calling 1, Fanes, Victor K2 and 15 others 18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Molitor Posted June 1, 2022 Share Posted June 1, 2022 Awesome. Just saying. Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale32 Posted June 1, 2022 Share Posted June 1, 2022 "Nothing to see here"! Good save. Cheers Bevan Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted June 1, 2022 Share Posted June 1, 2022 (edited) 5 hours ago, Thunnus said: When I tried to place the "JJ" code, I found that is to large for the space that is between the serial number and fuselage roundel. The masks are traced from the decals so either the serial number or roundel is slightly out of position. Probably the roundel. But there is no way I am going to redo the roundel so I measured how much I'd have to squeeze the JJ down to make it fit. About 0.4mm. AFAIK the roundels and the serial numbers were painted at the assembly plant. The JJ codes were painted afterwards. So it would be logical to apply the roundels and serial at their proper location first and adjust the codes so that they fit. Just like you did. Also keep in mind that the position of the codes on each side doesn’t need to be a mirror-image to each other. It’s more important that they look good when viewed from either side. Most important is the spacing between the letters and the other elements. More often, the erks who did the painting were chosen among sign painters in the civilian life. Sign painters were trained in calligraphy and were very strict about letter spacing (a lost art in our digital age ). HTH Quang Edited June 1, 2022 by quang Uncarina, mc65, dennismcc and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennismcc Posted June 1, 2022 Share Posted June 1, 2022 I'm with Quang, I always have to juggle roundels and codes, I do try to get the roundels mirror imaged but a lot of the time it is not possible, a photo of the real thing is usually my guide. Cheers Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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