Jump to content

Italeri CF-104 Starfighter "Kicked up a Notch": Feb 27/21, Decal Rivets Half Done


Recommended Posts

On 1/6/2021 at 9:01 AM, chuck540z3 said:

Thank you very much guys!  A few model supply items that might be of interest:

 

-  I just ordered 30 bottles of MRP paint, but MRP out of Slovakia won't ship directly to Canada any more.  This may be due to our stupid Canada Post service not allowing the mailing of solvents and other paints as "Non Mailable Matter", with no regard to volume and actual risk of a few small bottles of paint.  HobbyWorld-USA thankfully will, so they may not have got the memo.  ;)  Having said that, I can get paint deliveries from SE Asia all day long, probably because they don't care about stupid Canada Post rules.

 

-  HobbyWorld is out of New Hampshire and I got my paint order in about 2 weeks by USPS mail.  Pretty darn good.

 

-  UMM-USA (excellent hobby store) is out of Illinois somewhere and ship through Chicago, which is the black hole of the USPS these days.  My last shipment took 6 weeks and my current two shipments (Rosie the Riveter and HGW decal rivets) still sit in a Chicago warehouse somewhere doing nothing after 5 weeks- so far.  Pretty darn bad, so try to avoid the Chicago area if you're in a hurry for anything from the USPS.  This is not a dump on the USPS in general, especially during this horrible pandemic, but some areas are much worse than others for deliveries.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

 

 

 

 

 


Artscale in the Czeck Republic will ship MRP to Canada.

 

I spoke to the owner of MRP, he is looking for a Canadian distributor, I may have found him one.

 

I ordered from Hobbyworld recently, it was very slow and he shorted me two bottles last order. I tried to contact him but he didn’t return any of my emails. Unfortunate as he was fast and a good communicator in previous dealings.

 

Spruebrothers ship to Canada even though the site says they don’t. I know others who have used them in the Toronto area but I don’t know how they accomplish it.

 

Awesome work on the avionics bay!

Edited by ScoobyDoo
Link to post
Share on other sites
20 minutes ago, ScoobyDoo said:

 

I ordered from Hobbyworld recently, it was very slow and he shorted me two bottles last order. I tried to contact him but he didn’t return any of my emails. Unfortunate as he was fast and a good communicator in previous dealings.

 

E-mail, or Facebook works with Matt.  I've used Facebook messenger through the Hobbyworld page, always gotten fast replies.  I've been short bottles a couple times, they've shown up later on though.

 

Matt 

Link to post
Share on other sites

January 11/21

 

 

A big update!  As shown above, the landing gear parts are full of big seams, so it’s taken me a long time to clean them all up, or at least most of them.  Here’s all the parts painted up and when I install them, I will be adding the odd hydraulic and electrical line if it’s obvious.

 

 

wpwjBW.jpg

 

 

Here’s the main gear dry fit together.  I have to admit that despite all the seam lines, the gear parts are fairly well molded, detailed and accurate.  Most of the front of the front of this gear bay will be covered with doors, so adding a lot of detail here is mostly a waste of time.

 

 

iyJGzP.jpg

 

kaLFg5.jpg

 

 

I have the ResKit tires and wheels, which are specific to the CF-104 rather than just a generic F-104G.  Here they are when compared to the kit wheels.  They were a ton of work getting them off their casting blocks and sanded down to size, then holes were drilled to fit the gear parts, although they main gear has square rather than round axles.

 

 

4sfDIX.jpg

 

v1cwA4.jpg

 

 

Painted up and weathered a bit, they look pretty good and the inner wheel has an accurate brake line connector for when I add these lines.

 

 

9SuhWn.jpg

 

 

Before I close up the fuselage halves, the engine needs to be installed, so I thought I’d get going on the ResKit resin engine.   More resin blocks to cut off.....

 

 

ef3iPp.jpg

 

 

With no instructions, other than this diagram I found on-line.

 

 

vBRd8s.jpg

 

 

Here’s the parts after getting them off the casting blocks, next to the kit nozzle, which would require significant clean-up to get all that crap out of the opening cleanly.  That little brass ring was not used, since it’s installation would be very difficult and more importantly, you’d never see it hidden behind the grill on the left of it.

 

 

AE0i5i.jpg

 

 

After a coat of Tamiya gloss black lacquer, followed by Alclad Steel.

 

 

clggpu.jpg

 

 

Here’s what the interior look s like on a J-79 engine I took in 2007 (note the date on the cone: 2006/12/11).  The rear is usually a rust color while the ceramic sides of the flame tube are green.  Note the flame holder on the bottom.

 

 

f4zRIr.jpg

 

 

So I painted the individual assemblies in a similar fashion.

 

 

OeGwtL.jpg

 

 

This is why I deleted that brass ring, which would be completely hidden behind this circular grill.

 

 

yNdwTz.jpg

 

 

Like all exhaust staining, every exhaust is a little different, so I used this one as my template.

 

 

xpxyHU.jpg

 

 

And tried to paint it in a similar fashion with a multitude of Alclad paint colors.

 

 

b1jyL7.jpg

 

 

The detail on these resin exhausts is incredible!

 

 

tAZX8v.jpg

 

 

Dry fit together, this exhaust looks fairly close to the real deal.  Too bad you’ll need a flashlight to see it!

 

 

GU6f1G.jpg

 

 

I then noted the length of the assembly at 86 mm from end to end.  More on this later.

 

 

yMh3BH.jpg

 

 

The engine attaches to the rear of the landing gear bay, but there are no locking tabs to hold it in place.  Since this join needs to be strong, I added a pin made from a drill bit and drilled holes to connect the parts.

 

 

NQzMYJ.jpg

 

 

While there is a tab at the back of the engine for it to be glued to, the rest of it is kind of free floating, other than a tab at the top of 2 brass fuselage walls.  This will be reinforced when I glue everything together.

 

 

WfsJCK.jpg

 

 

The engine is held in place, however, when the rear tail is attached, but that doesn’t happen until near the end of assembly if you follow the directions.

 

 

ZObCrO.jpg

 

 

Here is how the kit exhaust fits at the rear, which is pretty close to reference pics.

 

 

4snGtu.jpg

 

 

And where the resin exhaust would fit if it was the exact same length.  Based upon the reference pic above, I think this is just about perfect.

 

 

nT4hIA.jpg

 

 

So if I want the resin exhaust to fit the same way, the whole assembly should be 161 mm like the kit parts.

 

 

oSTZZu.jpg

 

 

With the resin parts already 86 mm (which is variable as I cut them), I need the front half to be only 75 mm, so I cut the kit parts accordingly.  Note I have drawn a line with a felt pen noting the top of the engine assembly, to ensure the flame holder winds up on the bottom, where it should be.

 

 

oEVWxn.jpg

 

 

And now dry fit into the fuselage, by slipping the engine into the front and adding the exhaust from the rear.

 

 

ZsJctB.jpg

 

 

Just above perfect exhaust exposure I think!.  This exhaust can just be slipped on at the end of the build in order to protect it from damage.

 

 

ZGoeNs.jpg

 

 

With the resin cockpit, resin avionics bay, resin wheels and resin engine, I’ve just had it with resin blocks and dust!  Next up is to check the wing fit before I glue everything together, because I’ve read that the wings may need some shims on the inside of the fuselage to keep the dihedral in the correct position.  I also need to add 8 navigation lights before I glue anything!

 

 

Cheers,

Chuck

Edited by chuck540z3
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • chuck540z3 changed the title to Italeri CF-104 Starfighter "Kicked up a Notch": Jan 11/21, Resin Engine and Wheels
13 minutes ago, F`s are my favs said:

So far so awesome! :) I just noticed (in the second to last pic) that the nozzle itself is slightly angled downwards in comparison to the lenght of the engine/exhaust duct. Should it be like that? It could be just an illusion though. 

 

Thanks!

 

This is partly due to the angle of the photograph, but mostly the dry fit of the nozzle to the flame tube, which is sloppy without glue.  When glued in place, all should be well- or at least I hope so! 

 

Cheers,

Chuck

Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Hawkwrench said:

Chuck, what razor saw do you use to cut away the resin stubs?

 

Tim

 

Whatever saw fits the task.  I have a number of saw blades with an X-Acto set on the right, while my go-to saw is the CMK saw on the left, that also comes with different saw blades from very fine to coarse.  While thin and sharp, the depth is limited, so I usually start the cuts with it and finish off with a saw on the right.

 

UQFzR4.jpg

 

 

Cheers,

Chuck

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • chuck540z3 changed the title to Italeri CF-104 Starfighter "Kicked up a Notch": Feb 27/21, Decal Rivets Half Done

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...