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1/32 Revell Me 262B-1/U1 Nachtjager


Thunnus

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John, you can also just punch out a few small 3-4mm wide plastic discs and glue them to the sides of the flaps and use these discs as spacers to later glue the flaps in a deployed position to avoid the hassle of having them attached so early on in the build/painting process. They are burried so deeply within the flap station you wont see them later.

As I understand it, the majority of Me-262 pilots began the take off with the flaps retracted to reduce drag and once underway during acceleration, just prior to rotation they deployed them... sometimes, unintentionally selecting the gear retraction sequence - as the flap and gear selection buttons were next to each other in the left forward console station. A rather poor choice of switchology and ergonomics.

On a separate, yet related note... 

The Germans did two things right, they were the first to introduce the Hands On Throttle And Stick (HOTAS) system with the Fw-190 aircraft which was carried forward to other aircraft including the Me-262 (and still found today in modern combat aircraft). They also created the first classic instrument lay-out allowing for a commonality between advanced aircraft. This instrument lay-out facilitated flight in instrument conditions and the development of subsequent muscle memory of instrument scanning during critical phases of flight and combat. 

Hope that helps,

Cheers

Alan

 

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Great information in this thread!  Thanks everyone!

 

I restored the hinge pins and also the leading edge pins, which were very delicate and prone to breakage anyway.
IMG-0993.jpg

 

Now the flaps can be installed in the lowered position correctly per Radu's original design.
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No problem installing the flaps in the lowered position after the wings have been assembled.  They will be glued in after painting.  Just a note... those black lines you see on the flaps and wing surfaces are repaired scratches.  I like to re-scribe all of the panel lines for uniformity and once in a while the scriber will jump the groove and make inadvertent marks.  These are repaired with black CA glue, hence the marks.

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Hi Thunnus, 

That looks great! The only other observation I have is about the position of the forward pins when the flaps are attached to the wing. In your photos, the pins rest on the "bottom" edges (speaking as if the plane was on its wheels) of the slots in the sides of the flap bays. They should be resting on the opposite edge of those slots, i.e. the "top" edge of the slots. That will give you the correct downward angle of the deployed flaps.

Radu 

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1 minute ago, johnie hopper said:

Or you can prepare some cardboard template with 50 - 55° (depends on source) to check the correct deployed position.

 

The kit parts were created in such a way as to give the correct angle - just rest the tabs at the front of the flaps on the "top" edges of the slots on the sides of the flap well. 

Radu 

 

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On 1/3/2021 at 11:45 PM, Radub said:

Hi Thunnus, 

That looks great! The only other observation I have is about the position of the forward pins when the flaps are attached to the wing. In your photos, the pins rest on the "bottom" edges (speaking as if the plane was on its wheels) of the slots in the sides of the flap bays. They should be resting on the opposite edge of those slots, i.e. the "top" edge of the slots. That will give you the correct downward angle of the deployed flaps.

Radu 

 

Please... call me John!

 

I didn't sense much play in the angle of the flaps when I did the dry-fit.  I'll see if I can get the pin orientation as you describe but I may have to settle for what you see.

 

I've since glued the engine nacelles into place. The only trouble spot was on rear top edge where you'll see my application of Mr Surfacer to address.
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At this point, I've decided to address a few of the small details.  First up is the loop antenna that goes on top of the fuselage behind the cockpit.  The molded loop is just too thick and needs to be replaced so it is cut off.
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My go-to material for replacement is a modern soda can.  It is thin but stiff enough to hold a shape and is easily cut.  Original Coke is the preferred flavor.
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After a thin strip is cut, it needs to be formed around a cylindrical shaft.  I use the plastic loop to find the right form.  For this instance, a wooden paint brush handle is chosen.
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A small pin vise comes in handy for holding small parts securely.  It's now much easier to sand the rough edges off and drill small accepting holes for the new loop antenna.
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The metal loop is simply glued into the accepting holes with CA glue and the new loop antenna is finished.
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Similar refinements can be made to the whip antenna that is mounted to the bottom of the wings and the pitot tube.
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Copper wire is used for the antenna and a piece of brass tubing for the end of the pitot tube.
IMG-1016.jpg

 

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16 hours ago, Thunnus said:

 

Please... call me John!

 

I didn't sense much play in the angle of the flaps when I did the dry-fit.  I'll see if I can get the pin orientation as you describe but I may have to settle for what you see.

 

 

 

Hi John, 

Maybe this can help a bit: 

 

draw9a7wrnUECoX1ycTjBtHgti3EtQvNqOBO2Du6

 

HTH 

Radu 

Edited by Radub
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