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1/32 Revell Me 262B-1/U1 Nachtjager


Thunnus

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The seam popping is not a big bother.  I was mentally prepared for such an outcome.  In fact, I purposefully treated the panel lines with this in mind and did not fill them completely and rescribe over a flush surface.  Instead, I kept the existing joint lines open which simplified my re-scribing.  Open closer inspection, it doesn't appear too bad and I should have the seams cleaned up in the a day or two, methinks.

 

While putty dries, I replaced the tail light.  First, I found a suitable piece of clear plastic.  This was one of those greeting card holders you get with a bouquet of flowers.
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The existing tail light is cut out with a razor saw.
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The replacement piece of plastic is glued into place with UV-activated clear epoxy.  A partially drilled hole serves as the bulb.
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New tail light after sanding and polishing.
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Thanks guys!  Appreciate the feedback!

 

3 hours ago, Troy Molitor said:

Nice job John.  

Doing a little ice fishing up in Northern Wisconsin.  Come on up and freeze to death?  Fish on!    

 

I don't particularly like the cold but ice fishing DOES look like a heckuva lot of fun.

 

The popped seams on the nacelles have been addressed and the temporary pastel wash shows the rivet and re-scribing work.  The wash will be scrubbed off with wet toothbrush prior to attachment to the wings.
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21 minutes ago, scvrobeson said:

How do you manage to scribe through Mr. Surfacer? I always find it to be an absolute mess for scribing whenever I try it.

 

 

 

Matt 

 

It depends.  If it is a skin coat of Mr Surfacer with plastic underneath, scribing and riveting isn't too much of a problem.  If it is a thick layer, it's going to be MUCH softer than the plastic so I change my scribing technique. Instead of pushing a cutting edge through the Mr Surfacer like I would with plastic, I drag the cutting edge across.  I don't get perfect results but it results in less chunked-off bits of putty.  Sometimes the raggedy edges of a scribed line through Mr Surfacer can be smoothed out by running the edge of a piece of fresh sandpaper in the seam.  Other imperfections are dealt with added spots of Mr Surfacer and touched up individually. 

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4 hours ago, Thunnus said:

 

.... sigh .... :wacko:

 

Instead of clogging up this thread with repetitive rationale, I will message you.

You have my sympathies.

 

I love it when people post incorrect information AND don't bother reading the entire thread beforehand, assuming instead you are a bumbling idiot who is ignorant of the subject he's spent hours researching & building.

 

Real friendly.

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59 minutes ago, DeanKB said:

You have my sympathies.

 

I love it when people post incorrect information AND don't bother reading the entire thread beforehand, assuming instead you are a bumbling idiot who is ignorant of the subject he's spent hours researching & building.

 

Real friendly.

 

Yeah but luckily pretty rare behavior here at LSP.  I've been very impressed with the interaction on all of my builds here and hold the majority of the posters here in very high esteem.  That little hiccup isn't going to bother me or slow me down.

 

Prior to gluing the engine nacelles into place, I wanted to work out how the flaps were going to fit.  Revell designed them with pins orienting them in the UP position.  I'm going to pose them DOWN so I've cut off all of the locating pins and have added the photoetch end caps that came with the Eduard Exterior set.

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The model flaps were designed to be posed in either closed or open positions. There are indentations on the bottom edges of the wings for the pin on the flaps to slot into in the open position. 

The flaps of the 262 were Fowler type and extended outward as well as down. I have seen many models where the flaps were just dropped as if they were hinged at the front, but the real things were a little more complex than that. The pins are essential in achieving the correct position of the deployed flaps. 

Radu 

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