Thunnus Posted December 9, 2020 Author Share Posted December 9, 2020 Thanks Jamme! The glue has dried so I can take off the tape around the fuselage joins. Test fit of the nose panels looks very promising. The nose cap is balanced on the end. Can't tell for certain but that small gap at the front of the fuselage may remain. If so, I would shim it with sheet plastic or stretched sprue. I have started the initial puttying of the fuselage seams. While that is curing, I placed the main landing gear legs into position. Revell provides three small holes in the bulkhead separating the landing gear leg compartment with the main wheel bay and I'm thinking that it could be utilized to mount the hydraulic lines in the landing gear wells. Victor K2, chukw, Greg W and 12 others 15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 Does the gear leg need to be installed before the gear bay is put in the wing? Or is there a way to hook that actuator in after the fact? Matt Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted December 10, 2020 Author Share Posted December 10, 2020 26 minutes ago, scvrobeson said: Does the gear leg need to be installed before the gear bay is put in the wing? Or is there a way to hook that actuator in after the fact? Matt The gear leg and the actuator are designed to be installed after the frame assembly is glued into the wings. The opening into which the actuator fits is open from below so fitting in after the fact should not be a problem. It may be easier to pre-wire the hydraulic lines so that's why I'm looking at it during this stage. And not many kits allow standing the gear legs outside of the wings so I thought it was an interesting perspective. scvrobeson, Victor K2 and Rockie Yarwood 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 That's good that it will let you attach those later. Should make life much easier than trying to assemble the legs before assembly, even though a bunch of kits have done that. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnie hopper Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 Just few pics how all these hydraulic pipes should look. Sometimes you can find the lines primed, sometimes they were let in original material (usually some kind of bronze alloy) Generally there is one long line at the back wall of wheel bay and three lines on the each side wall. Then one line in the wheel leg bay (for wheel brakes) and three line around the wheel leg piston (notice a tiny end switch on the wall between wheel and leg bay) J.H. P.S.: send a private message for more pics Victor K2, MikeA, D.B. Andrus and 8 others 8 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 Very nice work, John. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 5 hours ago, johnie hopper said: Just few pics how all these hydraulic pipes should look. great pics - where are the colour ones from? ie which museum restoration? any thoughts as to the efficacy of what they did? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnie hopper Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 (edited) Pics 1, 8, 9 are from the new built/restored piece Flying Heritage & Combat Armor Museum pics 2, 3 are from Czechoslovakian Avia S-92/me-262 A-2 in Prague Kbely Military Museum pic 9 is from Czechoslovakian Avia CS-92/Me-262 B-1 in Prague Kbely Military Museum pics 4, 5, 6 are from US NASM source but I don't know exactly which machine(s) are they from I can say that I know why are all these pipes and hoses there for and how should hydraulic and emergency pneumatic system work, but it is probably out of this theme. BTW, have you ever seen these? Edited December 10, 2020 by johnie hopper Kais, Paul in Napier, Rockie Yarwood and 5 others 7 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hartmann52 Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 On 12/9/2020 at 7:39 PM, Thunnus said: It's just a bomb! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted December 10, 2020 Author Share Posted December 10, 2020 Thanks guys! I've performed riveting on the smaller control surface parts. The riveting has been highlighted with a brown pastel wash. After photos, the parts will be scrubbed with a toothbrush under the faucet to try and clear the rivets and panel lines as much as possible for the later painting stages. The fuel ports in front of the windscreen are raised, which makes the seam line awkward to clean up. I'm going to whack them off, tidy the joint properly and then re-scribe the ports using templates. The David Union DU400 hobby sander is the perfect tool to level out this type of raised feature. Also shown in the photo are about 14 grams of fishing weights that I've glued into the nose to help balance the model on its tricycle landing gear. The DU400 makes the fix easy but also uniform without any carving gouges that would've resulted if I had tried to use an x-acto blade. I'll probably wait until after the gun cover has been glued on before I scribe the fuel ports. TAG, Landrotten Highlander, Troy Molitor and 9 others 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrish Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 Nicely done! Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monthebiff Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 Superb John, watching with interest as I have this in the stash with the same after market as well! Regards. Andy Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeA Posted December 11, 2020 Share Posted December 11, 2020 Very clever bit of work with the raised areas. Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted December 11, 2020 Author Share Posted December 11, 2020 Thanks for the input guys! Moving along on several different fronts. The shiny metal bits on the landing gear have been painted. This is Alclad Chrome over a gloss black base. It's best to let this dry a complete day before masking. It's finally time to glue the forward cowling pieces into place. First the gun bay cover. It's not a drop-in-and-forget-about-it fit. It takes some pushing and pinching to get good cement contact along all of the edges. This is where Tamiya Extra Thin cement really shines, allowing for spot control of glue application on pieces that are already in place. The known gap on the rear edge of the starboard side has been filled with a piece of stretched sprue fused into place with Tamiya Extra Thin. I let that dry for about four hours before gluing in the next piece. I didn't want to push gun bay cover out of place. The next piece didn't fit quite as well as the gun cowling with some noticeable overhangs and steps as if the part was just a little too big for the space it occupies. Not perfect but I can deal with that. The main thing is that I get a good glue connection all the way around so that the joints will stand up to the puttying/sanding/re-scribing/riveting that will come. The nose cap presents some issues. The base for the nose-mounted radar antenna is supposed to be glued in place before the nose cap and would result in two bits sticking out from the nose. I'd like to clean up the joint all the way around the nose cap and those two prongs would undoubtedly get in the way. Playing around with some Albion Slide Fit brass tubing, I thought I could create an antenna base that could provide the correct geometry and be attachable from the outside. I cut the plastic antenna base, keeping the locating tabs in place. Brass tubing was used as the central (female) mount. Smaller brass tubing were attached to the plastic antenna mount pieces. When this was fit into place, it was apparent that spacer under the central mount would be needed. A spacer was made from a sheet of styrene. The central mount brass tubing is glued onto the spacer and now I have an antenna that can be mounted from the outside with the nose cap in place. Rockie Yarwood, dodgem37, adameliclem and 12 others 15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnie hopper Posted December 11, 2020 Share Posted December 11, 2020 You can find one of few small Revell's mistakes here: Elevator parts (stabilisator and rudder) were made as universal (right/left exchangeable) for simplification of production. Then the small jut on stabilisator should be on the lower flat (left elevator) and on the upper flat (right elevator). Like here: The trim stick was very often dismounted and trim itself was fastened in neutral position. TAG, Rockie Yarwood, AlanG and 10 others 11 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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