johnie hopper Posted December 6, 2020 Share Posted December 6, 2020 I've found one more interesting photo. It seems that one clamp was blind. Rockie Yarwood, Out2gtcha, dodgem37 and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted December 6, 2020 Share Posted December 6, 2020 Excellent progress John! Always like the extra detail that you add into your builds. Will be tough to see underneath, but we'll always know it's there. Matt Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted December 7, 2020 Author Share Posted December 7, 2020 Thanks guys! I appreciate the input! Johnie... your photos are fantastic and I appreciate the wealth of knowledge that you bring. Sincerely! But... it is a bit... ahem... awkward to receive constructive input AFTER I've laid the pieces down and applied paint over them. I'm sure I've said this many times but I am not trying to be 100% accurate and include every detail that was present on a real 262. So it can be discouraging to post an update and then be told "this, that and other don't belong there". I hope that makes sense. The wheel bay side panels have been painted. It's too late to remove any erroneous components so I'm going to leave it as is. The central tube has been painted as well. Got careless after one of the clear coats and left this big ole thumb print. I don't think it will be visible so I'll leave it as a signature. I performed another round of dry-fitting to see how the added details look from the outside. With special attention to see the terminal ends of the wiring runs. This photo below shows one area where I'll have to hide the ends of the wiring better. Fit is still cautiously very good as far as I can tell. Remember, this is without the trimming or adjustment of any of the interior bulkhead parts. A view from the top side to remind us to be careful with the cockpit components when doing this dry-fitting. The tiny anchors for the seat belts are especially vulnerable. Mattcom, dodgem37, Kagemusha and 19 others 22 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett M Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Really nice work, John. The wiring and colors used really make things pop. And....great signature! Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Great work. Might be worth putting some kind of foam over the cockpit section so you don't risk damaging anything while working on the underside? Matt Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnie hopper Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 2 hours ago, Thunnus said: As always, nice and great work John, the hanging wires (between tube and wall) could be little saggy down affected by gravitation ;-). Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanG Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Love it. Truly excellent work there. Gives an adequate builder such as myself, something to aspire to Thunnus and Troy Molitor 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Looks grande. Sincerely, Mark Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grunticus Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Fantastic job, and the details you added really make it so much better than OOB. I still have this one in the stash. Had good fun building the -1A. Keep it up, great work! Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Molitor Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Looking good mate! Looking good...... Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted December 8, 2020 Author Share Posted December 8, 2020 Thanks guys! As always, the comments are always inspiring me to push onward! On 12/6/2020 at 7:28 PM, scvrobeson said: Great work. Might be worth putting some kind of foam over the cockpit section so you don't risk damaging anything while working on the underside? Matt Yes, I actually used some tape to create a "roll bar" over the rear seat that helps keep the top edge of the seats from contact. On 12/6/2020 at 9:10 PM, johnie hopper said: As always, nice and great work John, the hanging wires (between tube and wall) could be little saggy down affected by gravitation ;-). Thank you Johnie! The wires are not attached in that photo and won't be permanently attached until the cockpit tube assembly is glued into the fuselage. So it won't look so "saggy" in the end! The landing gear well wall components have been painted. The metal color used was AK Extreme Metal Polished Aluminum and it came out really shiny but that will get knocked down by the subsequent wash, post-shading and flat coat. There are a number of control rods and linkages that get glued into the wheel bay. BE VERY CAREFUL in cutting these off the sprue and trimming the sprue gates off of these parts. Revell plastic is on the soft side and it is very easy to break these delicate pieces. The gun bay/nose gear well has been assembled. The gun bay is unpainted and I think it will remain so since I will be gluing the covers shut. I elected to paint the interior of the nose gear well in RLM 02 Grey Green (Mr Hobby Aqueous). The nose gear well is narrow and deep with limited visibility so the only enhancement here is some wiring along the ceiling. Once the gun bay/nose gear well has been completed, the fuselage halves may be glued together. But I'm quite ready to do that yet. Another round of dry-fitting is necessary to check how the glued together nose gear assembly fits within the fuselage. There seems to be a slight resistance for the tip of fuselage halves from coming together. Taping on the remaining nose panels reveals pretty good fit with just a few exceptions. This mold deficiency in the starboard fuselage half continues to create a gap. I am leaning towards addressing the gap after attachment with stretched sprue. The other issue seems to be the nose gear well being a tad too wide and not allowing the fuselage halve to close at the front. I think this can be easily addressed by a little bit of trimming. I've chosen to highlight some parts of the landing gear wells with RLM 02 Grey Green. These parts will be dirtied up a bit before they are glued together. I have a concern about adding wiring to these painted parts... I would have to be very careful to avoid marring the paint with excess CA glue. MikeA, Doctorgaz, Brett M and 10 others 13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett M Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 Really nice work, John. I like the little detail of the grey green, stands out nicely. Rockie Yarwood and Thunnus 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamme Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 Hi. Beautiful Work. Cheers, Jamme Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted December 9, 2020 Author Share Posted December 9, 2020 Thanks guys! The fun part is just starting... fitting all of these components together and that's going to start with this update. The landing gear bay wall components have been given a pastel wash and a flat coat and are ready for assembly. The landing gear bay walls are glued together now. As I stated earlier, I had to trim the front end of the center spar down a little to make it fit. After assembly of the landing gear bay walls, I wanted to conduct another round of dry-fitting to see the painted components in place. I am getting more comfortable with the fit as I go. I got the gun bay/nose gear well to sit a little better by trimming the forward corners of the vertical walls that protrude beyond the small circular bulkhead. With this last dry-fitting exercise, I felt confident enough to finally glue the fuselage halves together using Tamiya Extra Thin cement. This was followed by gluing in the gun bay/nose gear well into place. As the glue was drying, I temporarily taped in the bottom wing into place to give the model additional stiffness and help ensure that the fuselage halves and gun bay are in correct alignment. I've left this small gap without glue for now. I want to make sure that its cross section matches the nose cone before I secure it into place. To improve the fit of the gun cowling, a small raised rib on the interior of the cowling was removed along with some raised details on the gun deck right along the contact edge. Even with the tape in the way, the nose panels seem to fit fairly well with a few previously identified exceptions. I'll let the the glue dry now before I move on. Brett M, AlanG, Hartmann52 and 10 others 13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamme Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 Hello. Really nice job. Cheers Jamme Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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