Thunnus Posted November 27, 2020 Author Share Posted November 27, 2020 Thanks Brett! Added some details to the radar operator's instrument panel. Thanks Johnie! And some wiring was put on radar box terminal. The frame has been primed but not yet painted. Landrotten Highlander, Greg W, Brett M and 15 others 18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted November 27, 2020 Share Posted November 27, 2020 Fantastic work, John. You're really racing through this one! Kev Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted November 27, 2020 Author Share Posted November 27, 2020 2 hours ago, LSP_Kevin said: Fantastic work, John. You're really racing through this one! Kev Really? It felt like I was going snail slow for a while. Not much to do this Thanksgiving without the kids at home and under stay-at-home guidelines... more time for modeling! LSP_Kevin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted November 27, 2020 Share Posted November 27, 2020 7 minutes ago, Thunnus said: Really? It felt like I was going snail slow for a while. Not much to do this Thanksgiving without the kids at home and under stay-at-home guidelines... more time for modeling! Compare your pace to mine, and I think you'll understand what 'slow' really means! Kev chrish 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnie hopper Posted November 27, 2020 Share Posted November 27, 2020 Really nice work John! I would like to say something generally to Me-262 instrument panel back side. Maybe it will be useful for someone else too. When you look at these pictures, almost each type of instrument has another type of connection. Some use pressure inlets (with hoses) some use one or two electric cables/wires. Here you can see how pressure inlets should be arranged and where they go through the cockpit walls. All electrical wires should go to the terminal strips V8 on the ride side wall or V4 and V5 under the switch box on the right side. Here's my scratch built attempt of Avia's S-92 IP using Eduard's single Luftwaffe WWII instruments (the IP body was really black). Instruments under panel were added for flight tests only. Landrotten Highlander, Rockie Yarwood, MikeMaben and 11 others 12 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted November 27, 2020 Share Posted November 27, 2020 Well done, John. Looks great. Sincerely, Mark Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterOlsen Posted November 27, 2020 Share Posted November 27, 2020 (edited) Nice work John, it looks like you're on top things Cheers, Pete. Edited November 27, 2020 by PeterOlsen Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeA Posted November 27, 2020 Share Posted November 27, 2020 Looking really great! Have to say that Johnie's photos and information are a great resource as well. Trouble is it all really does lift the bar. for the rest of us...... Cheers Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adameliclem Posted November 27, 2020 Share Posted November 27, 2020 Beautiful work, John, and I don't think it'll be lost under the canopy. There's plenty of "pop" in it, from colors to details. Thanks for sharing. Adam Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted November 28, 2020 Author Share Posted November 28, 2020 Thanks guys! Appreciate the feedback! 4 hours ago, MikeA said: Looking really great! Have to say that Johnie's photos and information are a great resource as well. Trouble is it all really does lift the bar. for the rest of us...... Cheers I agree! It's a bit awkward to receive information that I will not be incorporating but as I long as Johnie doesn't mind, I don't mind and I sincerely appreciate the information as a resource for others. There are going to be LOTS of things that are not representative of a real Me262 or missing altogether from this build. My intention is not to build an accurate-as-possible Me 262. I just want to produce something that seems authentic and towards that end, I try to be accurate but accuracy is not what drives my work. Obviously, I got the wiring on the back of the instrument panel wrong but I'm not going to change it at this point and I think it will be sufficient for the limited view it is going to get in the end. But thank you for that great info, Johnie! Ok... back to the build! I expanded my preliminary dry-fitting to the wings. The outer wing bottoms attach in a strange arrangement of tabs and pins. Due to the forced geometry of this connection, it was very difficult in getting the locating pins to go in their proper hole at an angle. Reminds me of the Zoukei Mura Ta152H push-and-twist landing gear legs. I figured something was going to break either forcing the pieces into place or trying to disassemble them. Put my engineer's hat on for a sec and decided to enlarge the two of the holes into ovals. It gives me just enough clearance to get the wings on and off and still providing a positive fit. Just a quick look to see how the fuselage and wings go together. Hard to tell from this stage since so little has been glued together but I haven't spotted any obvious trouble spots yet. The cockpit inner side of the "tube" have been painted. I added some wiring to the radio operator's starboard wall. Thinking about adding oxygen tubes to the cockpit using lead wire. Finished off the painting of the seats with some dry-brushing to simulate cracked leather. The cockpit sill has been painted and chipped. A bit more to come.... TAG, Brett M, chrish and 12 others 15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted November 28, 2020 Author Share Posted November 28, 2020 Continuing on with today's work... The kit wheels are very nice and compare very favorably to the resin ones from Barracuda Studios. Where the kit wheels lose points is along the seam line. The tread detail loses significant definition at the join edges. What little detail there is will be eroded even further when it comes time to clean up that joint. So the resin wins hands down in this comparison. A similar comparison of the nose wheel results in a different verdict. This time, the casting irregularities on the resin wheel near the casting block may be more difficult to repair than the glue joint on the kit wheel. The resin main wheels are sawed off their casting blocks using a fine razor saw (RB Productions Medium). To help establish a flat spot on the tire, I use a piece of coarse sandpaper taped to a small sheet of glass. The tires are slightly bulged at the casting block where I established my flat spot, which will help facilitate that "weighted" look to the inflated tires as they compress under the great weight of this aircraft. It's a subtle but significant effect. Finally, a word about parts clean-up. I don't usually document the very basic step of cutting pieces off of the fret and preparing them for painting/assembly. But I think it is something at all modelers should pay attention to. It's important to remove any and all mold lines from your parts. Some flat-sided parts won't have a visible mold line but many curve and almost all cylindrical parts have them. I usually scrape them off with the edge of an x-acto blade and then re-establish the round contour with sandpaper. The kit tires fit perfectly on the kit landing gear leg, of course. One of the tricky things about using resin wheels is that the hole in the wheel usually needs to be deepened or enlarged to accommodate the landing gear. Without a drill press, it is difficult to drill that hole perfectly perpendicular. I usually counter this by drilling the hole a tad larger so that the wheel has some wriggle room sitting on the axle and can be adjusted as needed. I don't have the appropriate drill bit size so I'm going to have to come back to the resin main wheels later. MikeA, chrish, Paul in Napier and 11 others 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted November 28, 2020 Share Posted November 28, 2020 Most excellent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted November 28, 2020 Share Posted November 28, 2020 Nice work as always, John. I've started using a ceramic blade for mould seam scraping of late, and it seems to give all the benefits of a standard steel blade, without any of the dangers. I use this one from SMS: https://www.scalemodeller.com.au/collections/tools-accessories/products/ceramic-scraper Kev Basta, Rockie Yarwood and chrish 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted November 28, 2020 Author Share Posted November 28, 2020 3 hours ago, LSP_Kevin said: Nice work as always, John. I've started using a ceramic blade for mould seam scraping of late, and it seems to give all the benefits of a standard steel blade, without any of the dangers. I use this one from SMS: https://www.scalemodeller.com.au/collections/tools-accessories/products/ceramic-scraper Kev Oh dear! Just what I needed... another tool! Before I go shopping, what are some of the dangers of the steel blade that the ceramic avoids? LSP_Kevin and Pastor John 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted November 28, 2020 Share Posted November 28, 2020 5 minutes ago, Thunnus said: Oh dear! Just what I needed... another tool! Before I go shopping, what are some of the dangers of the steel blade that the ceramic avoids? The ceramic blade is actually quite blunt compared to a standard #11 Xacto blade, so there's little-to-no danger of accidentally gouging, slicing, or cutting into the part. It's also less aggressive as a scraping tool, and you have to really be trying to get the blade to 'dig in' to the part. That said it's still amazingly effective at removing flash, seam lines and other moulding defects with very little effort. Of course, if you're not as ham-fisted as me, and wave the #11 blade around like a surgeon, then you're probably already good to go! But I need all the help and child-safe features I can get. Kev D.B. Andrus, AlanG, Rockie Yarwood and 2 others 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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