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Another Trumpeter 1/16 Panther G Build - Steel Wheel


Juggernut
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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Well, I redid the radios and made teeney-weeney decals for the radio placards, frequency dials, and the yellow stripes.  They're not really legible but if you know what you're looking at (wording) you can make it out.  The photo shows this with only a gloss-coat and looks kind of ratty like that.  The flat coat should make things a little better (i.e., the pebbly texture should go away).  The Alps printed decals are a royal pain to work with because you have to cut out each individual placard (and they are tiny...most are 0.76 mm x 2 or 3 mm), soak it in water then try to apply it without it wrapping around the application instrument...which is precisely why I made duplicates and triplicates of the placards.  I'm happier with this than I was with the hand painted version on the previous page.  I'll flat coat the radios tonight and then add the glass for the frequency dials afterward (future or micro gloss).

 

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Here's some shots of what the real things look like (photos borrowed from the web):

 

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Edited by Juggernut
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Posted (edited)

Here it is again with the flat coat added...  I think it looks passable but the photo doesn't really do it justice.  If I can get a better photo, I'll replace it.  The interconnects between the two bottom radios still need some work (paint).  I still need to paint the screw heads at each box corner silver and add the interconnect between the upper and bottom left radio.  I'm toying with adding a dark-grey/black pin wash to accentuate some of the details.  I also started on the ICS box (top box in photo at bottom) but haven't gotten much further than a rough shape (sized to my best guesstimate).

 

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Photograph borrowed from the web.

Edited by Juggernut
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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Hi all,

 

Still working on the radio rack but it's just about done.  I had to do some modification to the kurstkreisel (remote gyro compass) as the way Trumpeter provides it, it doesn't fit in the hull without smashing everything in the vicinity... a fact I learned by trying to test fit it into the hull with it attached to the upper hull.  Luckily I have the M.A.N Nurnberg Factory book from Panzerwrecks that shows the interior of one of the steel-wheel panthers and the mount for the thing is different than what Trumpeter provides.  I found it necessary to lopp off the drivers side radio rack support (I don't think either support is typical of the actual installation) and fabricated a new mount that allows me to install a new one that I scratch built.  It's not perfect but it fits where it's supposed to without smashing anything else.  I also scratch built the Ku3 gyro unit and power box for the kurstkreisel and mounted it in the hull on the sponson immediately forward of the ammunition rack and inside of the hydraulic mounts for the steering/brakes. 

 

I also had to move the box at the rear of the drivers side upward because it also smashed the underlying mount for the instruments and operation panel. 

 

I also had to scratch build the ICS box at the rear of the radio rack as Trumpeter does not provide that part in the kit.  I need to do a little more work on that as the knobs and switches need to be detail painted.

 

My pedestal is a upturned Chinet paper plate.. :lol:

 

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This time I used the tripod for the camera and it seems to have made a difference.  I'm still using auto mode so the depth of field isn't as good as I'd like but I don't have time to pull the camera book out and read it; not to mention the print is so small my older eyes have trouble focusing in on it.  I'll get to it at some point....  I also think I need better lighting. 

 

 

This is one of the photos I'm using for a reference:

 

K6YsuoA.jpg

Edited by Juggernut
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Wow Juggernut this is it!! Looking ready for some radio action.

 

Also the quality of pics is better.

My suggestion is to use mode A on your Nikon. You then can manually choose the opening size of the aperture and the camera will adapt exposure time automatically. Large aperture no. means small opening size which is necessary to achieve a good depth of field. 
If possible try to get some more lighting to the objects you want to photograph- but don’t use the cameras flash - a cold white light bulb (light temperature is more than 6.000 Kelvin) comes close to daylight and will do.


Looking forward to your next steps. 

best regards 

Nils

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Well, it's getting to the point where I'm going to be putting the upper hull onto the lower hull and wanted to let you all in on what's been going on between my last update and now.  The radio work is complete and now has crew headphones and throat mics.  I've done some moderate weathering inside the hull using graphite (#2 pencil) and a little dust and dirt here and there.  I also created the pannier shell retaining clips.  Each is made from three or four pieces (depending on the distance between the racks).  There are 24 of them in total and I was surprised at how quickly they went together after I actually decided how I was going to do it.  Each is made from a small section of channel styrene, a length of 0.040 inch diameter rod, some have an additional 0.020 inch rod inserted into a drilled hole within the 0.040 inch rod, and last but not least, a section of angle to represent the clip on the top.  They're not completely accurate but they will pass muster.  These were the last steps before closing up the hull.  I'll most likely do that sometime tomorrow. 

 

So without any further BS, this is what the hull looks like now:

 

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Yes, the transmission cover is removable.  I still have to connect the radio power wires and drape the mics and headphones but this is a milestone reached.... in a year and a half.

 

Thanks for looking in.

Edited by Juggernut
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