Jump to content

Another Trumpeter 1/16 Panther G Build - Steel Wheel


Recommended Posts

And so it begins.....

 

First thing I noticed other than the sheer size of this vehicle (I'm used to Large Scale Panzers -see what I did there?) is that the armor plating that makes up the lower hull is very smooth in the kit.  I've also been watching all the other 1/16 Panther builds in this forum and you guys are giving me great inspiration!  Damn you!  I already spent too much money on the kit(s) already!  Yes, I have both 1/16 Trumpeter Panther model kits. :help: 

 

Being that I am MUCH slower than most of you, I'll try and entertain you with some mundane images of how I fixed the smooth armor plating to better resemble what the armor plating really looks like...far from smooth. 

 

This is what the side of the kit hull looks like out of the box:

 

DiSuQTO.jpg

 

See how smooth the sides are?  Below are photos of what it looks like AFTER I "textured" the surfaces of the armor plating.  For those of you that are curious, I used Mr. Surfacer 500 as it has the innate ability to stick to itself as it dries creating lumps, bumps and irregularities.  I used stippling motion with a flat-tipped paint brush.  A quick pass with some fine sandpaper after it's dried, knocks down the really high spots and, I think, makes it look like German WWII rolled armor plating (not cast).

 

78SzkM6.jpg

 

QPfPf7p.jpg

 

Below is an "in progress" shot of the Mr. Surfacer being applied.  I used smaller paint brushes around details like nuts/bolts and access panels.

 

0g52R9c.jpg

 

qubf0wW.jpg

 

Anyway, that's my progress for the past couple days.... Last evening and today, I add weld beads to the various places on the hull and attachments.  No photos of that yet but I'm using Magic Sculp two-part putty; it's very much like Milliput but more cost effective (you get more for less money). 

 

You'll notice the pencil marks in the above photograph.  I've discovered that the rectangular box vent that runs from the engine compartment to the brake housings on Panther G's was in fact, tubing made of several sections.  The rectangular box went away with the last Panther A.  Two tubes ran from the brake housings to the right engine deck fan and  two tubes ran from the transmission to the left engine deck fan.  On Panther's with the crew heater, this changed again, adding more tubing for the crew heater ducts to the  drive and radio operator positions. 

 

I'm trying to find the best  way to construct these tubes.  Since I have two 1/16 Panther kits, I am attempting (without a lot of success just yet) to design these in a 3D modeling program (Fusion 360) but I think I'm in WAY over my head with this software program.  I need a lot of schooling on how to model in 3D.  Provided I can create these tubes in CAD, I will then 3D print them (in sections) on my Elegoo Mars resin 3D printer.  That's the plan....  What actually happens MAY be entirely different.

 

 

Edited by Juggernut
Link to post
Share on other sites
13 minutes ago, LSP_K2 said:

I, for one, will certainly be looking forward to more.


I’ll do my best to provide more.  I just finished adding weld beads to the hull/pannier joints on the right side of the hull.  No photos yet....the work is tedious and time consuming.  I managed to get through the right side before the amount of putty I had mixed started curing.  Hopefully I’ll be able to post some progress photos tomorrow.

Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, LSP_K2 said:

Do you intend to do the steel plate texture, on the entire interior too?

 

Yep, already have it on the inside of the bottom hull.  The last two photos in the first post are of the lower hull interior.  I actually purchased another bottle of Mr. Surfacer 500 for doing the upper hull and turret parts.  I'm about 1/2 way through the first  bottle I had... I'm actually proud of myself for thinking a little proactively here on that.  Usually I just run out or get damn near to it before ordering more.

Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, LSP_K2 said:

As much as I like the Panther, my next big AFV kit (after a Takom Panzer I), will be the big Trumpeter Panzer IV, unless of course the StuG III is released before then.

 

I had the Panzer IV H but sold it.  I'm not a big fan of all those tiny road wheels.  I have the Tiger II, the early Panther G (as I mentioned above), and like you, the Jagdtiger.  At my build rate, these three kits will last me several years.  That's in addition to all the 1/32 airplanes and 1/35 armor I already have.  I hope I live long enough!  I should stop buying model kits now...yeah, right.

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Juggernut said:

 

I had the Panzer IV H but sold it.  I'm not a big fan of all those tiny road wheels.  I have the Tiger II, the early Panther G (as I mentioned above), and like you, the Jagdtiger.  At my build rate, these three kits will last me several years.  That's in addition to all the 1/32 airplanes and 1/35 armor I already have.  I hope I live long enough!  I should stop buying model kits now...yeah, right.

 

I think the same thing, and frequently too; "why do I keep adding all of these kits"? But add them I do.

Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, Juggernut said:

 

I had the Panzer IV H but sold it.  I'm not a big fan of all those tiny road wheels.  I have the Tiger II, the early Panther G (as I mentioned above), and like you, the Jagdtiger.  At my build rate, these three kits will last me several years.  That's in addition to all the 1/32 airplanes and 1/35 armor I already have.  I hope I live long enough!  I should stop buying model kits now...yeah, right.

PzIV road wheels aren't so tiny in 1/16th scale!;) Nice work so far!

Link to post
Share on other sites

As promised, below are some photos of the weld beads I've added to the hull.  I'm not sure I captured the interlocking joints of the pannier-to-hull properly/completely so that area may get updated.  I created a special tool from small brass tubing to get the "arc" in the welds.  On others, I just used the squished end of the same piece of tubing (opposite end), shaped into a semi-circular cross section and added weld bead detail.  The good thing about Magic-Sculpt is that if I don't like it, I can always just scrape it out, even after it's dried.  It's a little tougher after its dried but it isn't impossible.  Before it's dried, water takes it all away.

 

YqHkUha.jpg

 

U2KxgRg.jpg

 

Tyd16Ii.jpg

 

dOA3lzi.jpg

 

S9uoQMu.jpg

 

 

Edited by Juggernut
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...