Perfect Plastic Putty

[Hawkwrench]

Is the perfect putty good for filling seams???

 

 

I know it's good for small holes, lines etc. 

 

 

Tim

Edited October 29, 2020 by Hawkwrench

[Out2gtcha]

I have never ever had success with it on large areas. I can barely make it work on tiny sections honestly.

I try not to use it at all if I can help it.

[LSP_Kevin]

I use it all the time for hairline cracks and minor seam gaps, but as Jennings suggests, it's not great for larger areas. One of the great things about it is that you get a few minutes to clean up the excess with water, and if you get it right, you might not have to sand at all.

 

Kev

[nmayhew]

i have it, but am concerned it will dry and crack 

[blackbetty]

i use it like Kev....

[chrish]

Agree with all above, it works very good in small seams (smooth it with a wet paintbrush or finger) but, for a perfect fit and finish I’d recommend Tamiya fine white filler, I don’t know what’s in it but it dries fast, doesn’t seem to shrink in large seams sands as smooth as glass (quite easily) sticks to anything (resin & plastic) and takes paint very well.

my $ 0.2c

[mpk]

I have tried it and didn't like it. I prefer Vallejo plastic putty. I rarely use putty these days. I use sprue plastic. I melt it into the groove using thin glue, such as Tamiya extra thin or Mr Hobby SP.

[Rick Griewski]

I am not sold on it yet.  The stuff seems to have a short shelf life.  I mix it with a bit of water.  Not good for filling medium size cracks. May favorites are Mr Surfacer 500 mixed with Tamiya grey putty. Then the same putty straight. Water soluble is not all that important to me I guess. 

[LSP_Kevin]

As an addendum to this, I just pulled out my tube of PPP to use on my current build, and the contents were dry and crumbly, and completely unusable. I don't use it that often, so even though I've had it for a few years, my tube was nearly full, so this is really disappointing. It's possible that I could have stored it inadequately, but the bottle of Vallejo's equivalent product that I also have is perfectly fine, and stored in the same place. I've usually preferred PPP to the Vallejo product as I think it has a finer grain and is smoother to apply, but now it seems I'll have to change my tune.

 

Kev

[fab]

Try it....

[Ben Brown]

Another data point. I usually use it to fill seams around clear parts so I don’t risk damaging the clear plastic with my ham fisted modeling technique. Last week I filled a wing seam with it that I normally would use Apoxie Sculpt (because I was lazy). I painted over it with Mr Color paint and then applied a decal near the seam. Some of the Solvaset I was using must have wicked into the filled area, because the next day, I had a “bloom” of white stuff all along the seam. I’ll post a photo as soon as I can get my phone to talk to my computer.

 

So, the takeaway: PPP reacts to some component of Solvaset. It’s had no reaction to Mr Color, Tamiya acrylics, or Tamiya lacquers.

 

Ben

[Ben Brown]

Update on yesterday's post. Here's what the white bloom looked like on an old Monogram AV-8A. It looks like there's a blob pushing the paint up, too. The rest of the seam was not perfect, but was less visible before. After I removed it with a wet cotton swab, a little more white material grew in a couple of tiny spots. 

 

So far, I have been unable to duplicate the problem. I left a blob of PPP in a puddle of Solvaset until it evaporated with no changes. I've also painted a blob with the Mr Color paints I used on the model. Nothing. This is the only time this has ever happened, so it's hopefully just a fluke.

 

Ben

[Woody V]

It's good for some things, but not others.

• For seams, I prefer it over anything because you can remove the excess with a wet cotton bud, brush or whatever without disturbing the surrounding area.
• It is not good for larger areas because it does not form a molecular bond to styrene like Tamiya white and therefore it doesn't feather well when sanded.
• It's perfect for filling rivet divots because you don't have to sand it.
• It's too thick straight from the tube so I dilute some with water and keep it in an old paint jar.
• It tends to dry up in the tube, so I squeeze the tube in a way where it sucks the putty back into the tube and put a few drops of water in the void to keep it soft. 
• If it does dry up in the tube, cut the tube open, dump the contents in a jar, add water and mix to the desired consistency.
• It's not stringy like Tamiya white putty which I find very annoying.

Like most things, it has it's good points and bad.

 

 

[Bob MDC]

My observation is similar to others, not to structural and not on critical areas ok on diorama stuff.

Mr Surfacer is my got in it's many shapes and grades, it also is a wipe off even when hard if you you Mr Color Thinner or isopropyl alcohol. I use the lens wipes for optical surfaces the paper is tough and is great at removing material with the thinners.

Really liking Mr White Putty R a bit interesting to used but fantastic results.

 

Bob

[Darren Howie]

Mr Surface in conjunction with Tamiya White..if it aint broke...