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1/18 Hawker Fury


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Seasons Greetings all :)

 

I hope you all had a great Christmas, even if it was a bit different this year. I had about the best ever with just my immediate family and zero stress or hassle :)

 

On 12/6/2020 at 7:04 PM, brahman104 said:

Sooooo good!!!!!!! The ammo cans and chutes are amazing. The little stiffeners on the side of the boxes though... are they folded litho or P.E.? They look thicker than folded sheet.....

 

Now I'm off to watch your next Patreon video :) 

 

Craig

 

Hi Craig - if you mean the little stringer 'T' sections, yes, they are folded litho - I think I folded once, then splayed out the 'T' bar of the Tee to make them, then rivetted from behind :)

 

 

On 12/6/2020 at 10:28 PM, dodgem37 said:

Lovely work, Peter.  I'm surprised the throttle quadrant is mounted outside of the framing.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

 

 

Hi Mark - yes me too - this is a Nimrod rather than a Fury, but you can see it packed in there on the outside of the main tubular fuselage assembly..

 

..likely to be a bit of a nightmare to get these sorts of tolerances and fits when the time comes..

 

ssDYvJ.jpg

 

On 12/25/2020 at 1:49 AM, wpierson said:

You should consider skinning only one side of the fuselage so folks can see that amazing work.

 

I have considered leaving one of the big side access panels off so it can all be seen, maybe I will, I just need to work out how much work that means as much more than just the cockpit can be seen..  unlikely, but possible...

 

Lz8JL7.jpg

 

 

so, been busy with a couple of things, first I have skinned the 'easy' constant chord parts of the wings - I ended up using very thin card, lined from the back with a ballpoint pen to define ribs and contact adhesive to stick it down (plastic cements seemed to distort the skin too easily...

 

yJ5qpk.jpg

 

..holes were made where the struts & rigging goes..

 

87uvo1.jpg

 

 

..the wing tips are proving difficult and frustrating, simple scoring a skin doesn't work as the skin has compound curves as the skin gets both smaller at the tip, but also shrinks in chord - I am trying to vacform a base part and score that (not going so well), but I might just end up filling with P38 and shaping from a solid - though that means a bit of weight at the tips I don't want...

 

..with that not going smoothly, I decided to change tack and start the fuselage.. this will be vacformed over a basswood master - the first time I have tried this and I really want it to go well as it means I can scratchbuild any subject in 1/18 in the future :)

 

..the first thing to do was to create all the relevent sections and outlines as scale plans - the outlines to define the outer borders of the shape, and the sections to be used when shaping the wooded master to the shapes needed..

 

..each section was created as a side profile and as a top and bottom profile and numbered to the station position..

 

..the basswood core is four machined 4cm square bits that get painted black on the mating faces which defines the four datum lines that run through the fuselage..

 

..you can see one half has been painted, then stuck together, then the side profile applied..

 

BcofF2.jpg

 

..I bought a small bandsaw just for this job to get nice perpendicular cuts - here I am starting to cut out the side profile..

 

..I had also drilled holes where the mainspar was, and the front and rearmost exhaust stack while I had theri positions to hand..

 

GbUy0l.jpg

 

..I didn't run the cut all the way to the end, so it kept the cut-off bit in place so I still had a square block to then cut the top profile..

 

T18TTu.jpg

 

 

..once the cuts were finished, the front and rear cuts were made and a disc stuck to the front to denote the spinner size..

 

..you can also see the datum lines showing through..

 

B8qJo4.jpg

 

..then it was lots of rasping, sanding , filing and generally making a terrible mess to get the Fury within to match the contour profiles...

 

kvIXXp.jpg

 

..the two halves were only lightly stuck together, so these were broken apart after fully finishing - I had been too aggressive in places so used P38 to build it back up and/or primer which I also needed to get a better eye on the shapes (though this needed to be removed for vacforming..)

 

Vn40qz.jpg

 

..then the halves needed a 1.5mm plinth and some fillers at the nose and tail so the plastic doesn't have such a drop off and to space the mould up from the vacforming plinth by the thickness of the material..

 

Yz5dmK.jpg

 

RwxEjD.jpg

 

..now for the vacforming itself... I couldn't hope to do this at home, I don't have the kit and as it's quite a big part even if I did I doubt I could do it. So I asked my good friend John Wilkes (Tigger) who offers large scale vacform kits like B29's Do217 etc to do them for me (and had advised me on making the mould). i sent John the mopuld and he very quickly turned around a few copies - they are nothing less than perfect!

 

hTXkzH.jpg

 

..I have just started to cut them out and get the mating faces right - here you can see the fuselage sat with the wings (ignore the incidence..)

 

VNAQCm.jpg

 

aXLLPH.jpg

 

6KvADE.jpg

 

lPL96z.jpg

 

..so now I have the basic form, and am forever in debt to John..

 

..next is planning how to proceed - I think to get all the skinning on the nose right, and to be able to integrate the delicate internal fuselage framework & cockpit, i will need to assemble the vac halves and then cut in two at the cockpit so I have one form for the nose for skinning, the tubular cockpit slides forward into that, and the rear fuselage & tail (with stringer detail added), will slide forward onto those..

 

..thats the working theory, but as I am making all this up as I go it may change :)

 

TTFN

 

Peter

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Peter,

 

I am so pleased that you have had a really restful Christmas (I hope that you will have a great new year as well).

 

Fantastic progress with your Fury and I am so pleased that Tigger has been able to assist you with your project - he is a top guy!

 

As for the wing tips, as you already have the ribs in place, perhaps filling the voids with dense blue foam type material and the then (after shaping) cover each individual rib position with strips of thin plastic sheet; hopefully, that will get you around the double curvature issue without adding additional weight to the wing tips? 

 

Alternatively, to keep it simple, you could fill the tip rib gaps with foam, shape it, then heat a thin sheet of plastic card and simply pull it over the wing tip - it can then be trimmed and glued to the tip (i use latex based contact adhesive for this purpose, as it does not affect the plastic - I use this to attach plastic sheet to balsa cores for wings or fuselage). For foam filler. I use 'Oasis' type flower arranging foam, which seems pretty impervious to any solvents. Good luck. 

 

Cheers

 

Derek

Edited by Derek B
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