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1/18 Hawker Fury


airscale

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20 hours ago, airscale said:

Hi Tom - thanks for dropping in :) Good question... I have a lot of the design done as I did make some for my 190, but in all honesty I can't see a way to integrate anything accurate with the HB kit - it is a bit all over the place. Maybe just a replacement panel might work, but that is a bit incongruous when is sits alongside totally incorrectly sized / aligned sidewalls & the rest.. The alternative is a full cockpit, by which time you are talking a big set which would soon get expensive and to be honest I don't think they are in any way mass-market like the old airfix 1/24 stalwarts..

 

Hi Peter,

 

Thanks for getting back to me on this - and I can understand your reasoning. Never mind - it can stay in the stash and perhaps one day a cockpit set will come along.

 

More exceptional work by the way - you are playing in the Premiership whilst most of us are in the Vauxhall Conference!

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10 hours ago, Starfighter said:

This is so far beyond anything I will ever achieve... wow. Just wow. 

 

 

I was thinking the same about myself!  

 

This is some high level master craftsman type of work. Just glad to be able to watch it come to fruition. 

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Thank you chaps - very kind :)

 

On 11/23/2020 at 4:54 AM, Alain Gadbois said:

Absolutely amazing! I love the mix of different materials in the Fury cockpit.

I think the gizmos might have to do with the synchronizing mechanism.

Also, with all the apparent brass and copper, do you use a clear finish to prevent eventual oxydation of the surfaces?

 

Alain

 

 

Hi Alain - thanks - no, no clear finish, I almost want them to oxidise to give a bit of age to things :)

 

 

On 11/23/2020 at 8:54 AM, Starfighter said:

This is so far beyond anything I will ever achieve... wow. Just wow. 

 

 

Gotta call that out Ben - totally untrue! I have seen what you do and it scares me - you easily have this sort of stuff in your locker :)

 

I thought I might change things up a bit having been in the 'pit for a few weeks (and while I search for pics or drawings of the ammo boxes / chutes...) so thought I might make a start on the lower wings. These are more simple than the uppers (no ailerons) so are better candidates to learn on..

 

.. I copied the techniques in the Alcorn book - they made it look straightforward :)

 

..first up make a brass template of the rib - thankfully these are constant chord across the span until it gets to the tip.. the holes they are pinned through are the centrepoints of the two tubular spars and match the mounts on the brass tube fuselage section...

 

vVy9bA.jpg

 

after making about 30, they are put together as a laminated block (using broaches to align them), clamped and finished to all are identical.. as the book says, they were taken out and 'shuffled' a few times to get them equal..

 

kwCoxs.jpg

 

 

..i created a drawing of the wing with the outline & rib position marked and then stuck lots of little plastic 'U' channel strips where each rib meets the leading edge. The leading edge itself was a bit of half round plastic strip..

 

nuTbkf.jpg

 

 

...cut the tip shape from black plastic card so I can see the midpoint during sanding later and stuck those to carbon rod spars..

 

..also made a jig for each wing so the assembly is flat & true..

 

KcMLLz.jpg

 

..started adding the ribs having reamed the holes to fit the spars as a tight fit..

 

gYNwCU.jpg

 

..there is a loose rib yet to be attatched at the root so the root rib is double thickness..

 

E6rYN6.jpg

 

..added the ribs to the tip as blanks and sanded them down, also added a folded litho trailing edge for a nice crisp edge..

 

DIiFKw.jpg

 

 

..added lots of sheet strengtheners - even with these the wing doesn't have a great deal of torsional strength against twisting, so will have to watch for that..

 

EQ4rIJ.jpg

 

 

..also added mounts for interplane struts and rigging... just thick 3mm card & brass tubes for now

 

CJvwTr.jpg

 

 

..then realised I had not allowed for dihedral (doh...)

 

..so I put a slit in each spar and built a jig so I could crack them and CA at the right angle... once that was done I added a brass rib at the canted angle and backfilled with CA to surround the cracked spars - all seems strong enough thankfully..

 

mcXp3h.jpg

 

 

..and now I have started experimenting with scoring ribs into sheet with a ballpoint pen in order to skin them... I will most likely do one big skin and wrap around the leading edge..

 

3BYHDa.jpg

 

..this is all uncharted territory for me, so we will see how it goes :)

 

TTFN

Peter

 

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Looking great so far!

You use a similar technique to that I've used in making r/c model wings, in that you've cut and sanded all the wing ribs together.  First I've heard about shuffling them around to keep them even though!

I'm just wondering if you couldn't wrap the wings in tissue paper, then shrink the paper by soaking it in water.  That would give you the rib detail naturally.

You would have to build up a small area around each of the mounts for the struts and rigging such that they match the height of the ribs.  That way, you could punch holes in the tissue and not have to worry about it tearing.

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Morning ladies :)

 

On 11/29/2020 at 7:08 PM, Cap'n Wannabe said:

Looking great so far!

You use a similar technique to that I've used in making r/c model wings, in that you've cut and sanded all the wing ribs together.  First I've heard about shuffling them around to keep them even though!

I'm just wondering if you couldn't wrap the wings in tissue paper, then shrink the paper by soaking it in water.  That would give you the rib detail naturally.

You would have to build up a small area around each of the mounts for the struts and rigging such that they match the height of the ribs.  That way, you could punch holes in the tissue and not have to worry about it tearing.

 

 

Thanks Cap'n - I did try tissue on a test mule, but it is just too fragile for what I need to do - I have an alternative, but more on that later..

 

..after a little interlude on the wings, I went back to the cockpit..

 

here, behind the instrument panel, you can see some shapes for the ammo boxes and feed / eject chutes - they are the diagonal lines above the left & right bits of the panel, and the ribbed metal panels below it - it turns out the mysterious cogwheel assemblies to the sides of the upper IP are also related.....

 

caenD3.jpg

 

..I went back to my chap with some drawings to see if he had any for these, and lo and behold we have these two..

 

the box..

 

ZRlaff.jpg

 

..and the feed chutes - note the cogwheel gubbins can be seen here...

 

aZ48Dy.jpg

 

..I made scale drawings from these drawings and cut out the shapes in litho - with these i used plastic stock to  bulk out the shapes & skin them..

 

CCXf3I.jpg

 

DJWzfa.jpg

 

..same principle for the boxes and their attatched feed chutes... here I am aligning the chutes with the real-world position of the guns in the model via stock blanks..

 

egMRuh.jpg

 

..also satisfying to find the cogwheel thing I made aligns perfectly - i just need to figure out how to break them out of this sheet and fit them (or not, I may just leave as the IP covers most of this...)

 

xU2lUa.jpg

 

 

..here the guns have been painted, they have also been adjusted as the R/H gun cocking handle is actually inboard, plus both cocking handles have been shortened as per pics...

 

..also the mounting frame has been constructed from soldered brass parts with some castings ground from tiny aluminium blocks..

 

 

 

rjdypY.jpg

 

 

iJuvGY.jpg

 

..it is critical to ensure all these sub assemblies work as a whole and fit with each other, so everything was dry assembled - here the seatbelts have also been made from rolled lead..

 

..I can't actually assemble it until the IP is complete as there is no way to add it after assembly - I should get the instrument decals sometime in January so all this will be shelved until then...

 

b0oP93.jpg

 

QxjrjK.jpg

 

eK2Qbq.jpg

 

3D0edg.jpg

 

U8MpUe.jpg

 

..so likely back to the wings - I have been experimenting - the tips are hard as there are compound curves the sheet doesn't want to take, and in one good skin, I found the Tamiya thin pooled in places (because I sloshed it on) and deformed the thin skin - so lots more to try / learn...

 

Cdgwwq.jpg

 

..until next time..

 

TTFN

Peter

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