QF-4S Phantom "VX-30" - Tamiya/Cutting Edge, 1/32

[Starfighter 5,056]

Feels like I'm letting you down a bit at the moment - but life and several ridculous ideas are making it difficult to finish the Phantom the way I'd like to finish it. The girl's new rooms are almost finished - some two or three more weeks - then progress should become smoother again. Just a little teaser of what is going on at the moment: 

 

EDIT: The "insert image from URL" function does not seem to work - I'll add the (crappy) photo as soon as it works again. 

 

 

 

 

[Starfighter 5,056]

Here we go!  

 

[jeroen_R90S 269]

Awesome, the more I look at this picture, the more (subtle) details I spot. Really nice!

[Rainer Hoffmann 1,676]

Top notch as usual, Ben. An absolutely fantastic paint job.

 

Rainer

[Scale_artisan 43]

6 hours ago, Starfighter said:

Here we go!  

 

What a paint job!! Smooth finish and soft painting/edges right where it needs it!!!

[Scale_artisan 43]

On 12/11/2020 at 6:13 PM, Ali62 said:

What would you guys prefer, just the clear parts recast in clear resin that being parts D5 and D6 or them assembled onto B52 and B53?

Hi Ali,

 

Do your clear resin parts need a coat of Mr.SUPER CLEAR GLOSS UV Cut to protect them from yellowing over time? Or, because they are thick (compared with others that are thinner), they don't need one?

 

Cheers,

Bill

[IvanVasili 32]

Phantastic job!

[Starfighter 5,056]

14 hours ago, Scale_artisan said:

Hi Ali,

 

Do your clear resin parts need a coat of Mr.SUPER CLEAR GLOSS UV Cut to protect them from yellowing over time? Or, because they are thick (compared with others that are thinner), they don't need one?

 

Cheers,

Bill

 

I'm not Ali, but I for one would never even think about applying a varnish onto any clear part. Dipping a clear part in Future is something else, that might be an option, but the sheen was so nice after some polishing that I did not consider this to be necessary. Ali has years of experience with this resin and according to him, it does not yellow. The thickness is exactly the same as the kit parts by the way. They are not overly thick. 

[Scale_artisan 43]

Hi Ben,

 

Thanks for your advice. You say that you wouldn't even think of applying a varnish onto any clear part. Does this has to do with the fact that these two products (varnish and Future) have a different chemical formula? Perhaps the varnish is more aggressive on clear parts, and therefore, it could damage them?

 

Cheers,

Bill

[dodgem37 8,566]

You dog me.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

[Ali62 596]

On 2/24/2021 at 4:50 PM, Scale_artisan said:

Hi Ali,

 

Do your clear resin parts need a coat of Mr.SUPER CLEAR GLOSS UV Cut to protect them from yellowing over time? Or, because they are thick (compared with others that are thinner), they don't need one?

 

Cheers,

Bill

Hi Bill 

I see that Ben has answered this mainly and what he says is correct, and I agree with it.

The resin I use is a UV stabilised polyurethane resin, and therefore it should not yellow. I have cast many clear parts over the past 15 years and do not know of any that have yellowed, extreme sunlight for many years might, but I do not know of any modeller that would do that to their models. Many other guys cast using epoxy resin, that will and does yellow but you still need a section thickness of at least 0.8 to 1.2 mm like most kit parts for the material to flow.

I am not sure about your comment on the thickness. Do you have any of my clear canopies, currently I have only produced the P-51 D canopy in 1/32 and the canopy for my Hunter set in 1/48, so I am curious to what you are comparing them to. Oh and also the side windows for the Hellcat in 1/24.

Well hope this helps, please do let me know what you mean about the thickness.

 

cheers Ali

[Starfighter 5,056]

On 2/25/2021 at 10:34 AM, Scale_artisan said:

Hi Ben,

 

Thanks for your advice. You say that you wouldn't even think of applying a varnish onto any clear part. Does this has to do with the fact that these two products (varnish and Future) have a different chemical formula? Perhaps the varnish is more aggressive on clear parts, and therefore, it could damage them?

 

Cheers,

Bill

 

The problem is that applying a varnish by airbrush will never be smooth enough - no matter how well you paint, there will walys be orange peel on the clear part which looks totally unacceptable. Future is usually applied by dipping the part into it which usually creates a perfectly smooth surface - the only you can face when doing that is dust inclusions. 

[Jennings Heilig 15,675]

Just stumbled across this thread - wow!  Great work!

[Starfighter 5,056]

Cheers Jennings! I am still super busy finishing the rooms for my daughters, but the end is near - I hope to getback to the bench in two weeks at latest.