Rainer Hoffmann Posted February 24, 2021 Share Posted February 24, 2021 Top notch as usual, Ben. An absolutely fantastic paint job. Rainer Derek B and Starfighter 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale_artisan Posted February 24, 2021 Share Posted February 24, 2021 6 hours ago, Starfighter said: Here we go! What a paint job!! Smooth finish and soft painting/edges right where it needs it!!! Starfighter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale_artisan Posted February 24, 2021 Share Posted February 24, 2021 On 12/11/2020 at 6:13 PM, Ali62 said: What would you guys prefer, just the clear parts recast in clear resin that being parts D5 and D6 or them assembled onto B52 and B53? Hi Ali, Do your clear resin parts need a coat of Mr.SUPER CLEAR GLOSS UV Cut to protect them from yellowing over time? Or, because they are thick (compared with others that are thinner), they don't need one? Cheers, Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IvanVasili Posted February 24, 2021 Share Posted February 24, 2021 Phantastic job! Starfighter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighter Posted February 25, 2021 Author Share Posted February 25, 2021 14 hours ago, Scale_artisan said: Hi Ali, Do your clear resin parts need a coat of Mr.SUPER CLEAR GLOSS UV Cut to protect them from yellowing over time? Or, because they are thick (compared with others that are thinner), they don't need one? Cheers, Bill I'm not Ali, but I for one would never even think about applying a varnish onto any clear part. Dipping a clear part in Future is something else, that might be an option, but the sheen was so nice after some polishing that I did not consider this to be necessary. Ali has years of experience with this resin and according to him, it does not yellow. The thickness is exactly the same as the kit parts by the way. They are not overly thick. Anthony in NZ, Derek B and Greg W 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale_artisan Posted February 25, 2021 Share Posted February 25, 2021 Hi Ben, Thanks for your advice. You say that you wouldn't even think of applying a varnish onto any clear part. Does this has to do with the fact that these two products (varnish and Future) have a different chemical formula? Perhaps the varnish is more aggressive on clear parts, and therefore, it could damage them? Cheers, Bill Starfighter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted February 25, 2021 Share Posted February 25, 2021 You dog me. Sincerely, Mark Starfighter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ali62 Posted February 25, 2021 Share Posted February 25, 2021 On 2/24/2021 at 4:50 PM, Scale_artisan said: Hi Ali, Do your clear resin parts need a coat of Mr.SUPER CLEAR GLOSS UV Cut to protect them from yellowing over time? Or, because they are thick (compared with others that are thinner), they don't need one? Cheers, Bill Hi Bill I see that Ben has answered this mainly and what he says is correct, and I agree with it. The resin I use is a UV stabilised polyurethane resin, and therefore it should not yellow. I have cast many clear parts over the past 15 years and do not know of any that have yellowed, extreme sunlight for many years might, but I do not know of any modeller that would do that to their models. Many other guys cast using epoxy resin, that will and does yellow but you still need a section thickness of at least 0.8 to 1.2 mm like most kit parts for the material to flow. I am not sure about your comment on the thickness. Do you have any of my clear canopies, currently I have only produced the P-51 D canopy in 1/32 and the canopy for my Hunter set in 1/48, so I am curious to what you are comparing them to. Oh and also the side windows for the Hellcat in 1/24. Well hope this helps, please do let me know what you mean about the thickness. cheers Ali Starfighter, Anthony in NZ, Derek B and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighter Posted February 26, 2021 Author Share Posted February 26, 2021 On 2/25/2021 at 10:34 AM, Scale_artisan said: Hi Ben, Thanks for your advice. You say that you wouldn't even think of applying a varnish onto any clear part. Does this has to do with the fact that these two products (varnish and Future) have a different chemical formula? Perhaps the varnish is more aggressive on clear parts, and therefore, it could damage them? Cheers, Bill The problem is that applying a varnish by airbrush will never be smooth enough - no matter how well you paint, there will walys be orange peel on the clear part which looks totally unacceptable. Future is usually applied by dipping the part into it which usually creates a perfectly smooth surface - the only you can face when doing that is dust inclusions. Anthony in NZ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighter Posted March 10, 2021 Author Share Posted March 10, 2021 Cheers Jennings! I am still super busy finishing the rooms for my daughters, but the end is near - I hope to getback to the bench in two weeks at latest. A-10LOADER, Derek B and scvrobeson 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighter Posted November 9, 2021 Author Share Posted November 9, 2021 Look who's back! I really need to finish this one... Landrotten Highlander, LSP_Kevin, Greg W and 11 others 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rainer Hoffmann Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 2 hours ago, Starfighter said: Look who's back! I really need to finish this one... Agreeeeeed Cheers Rainer Starfighter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcel111 Posted November 10, 2021 Share Posted November 10, 2021 Take her through the finish line, Ben! Starfighter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighter Posted November 11, 2021 Author Share Posted November 11, 2021 Fells good to finally cut some plastic again... partially disassembled Mk.7 for Scooby's rear cockpit in progress. To improve the overall appearance of the Tamiya seat, I am using some elements removed from a Black Box Seat. I will probably use the lower seat cushion as well. Paul in Napier, Landrotten Highlander, Derek B and 16 others 18 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighter Posted January 3, 2022 Author Share Posted January 3, 2022 Happy New Year everyone! After another year without completing a model, I managed to finish Scooby on January 2nd... Time for a big update! More details had to be added to the rear seat. The lower cushion was removed from the second Black Box seat I had on hand. The lap belts being identical to the first seat was of course not acceptable, so I cut one of them with a razor saw and re-arranged it to make it look different from the front seat. Raised rivets (from Micromark), PE belts and some wiring was added before the seat could be painted. Some careful painting, stencils from Jira-Gio and braided lines for the ejection handles (from Anyz) later, the seat was ready to be installed. It looks quite nice in situ IMO. The rear canopy from Aerocraft was detailed with Aires and Eduard PE parts before it was painted and decalled. Four different colours for a grey canopy frame... masking that was fun. The canopy frames were weathered and then installed. Adding that curly wire between the seat and the anopies was "fun"... not. The RBF tags are from HGW. I need to print some new canopy locking hooks as I keep on losing the PE ones... johncrow, Fanes, blackbetty and 16 others 18 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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