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QF-4S Phantom "VX-30" - Tamiya/Cutting Edge, 1/32


Starfighter

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  • 2 weeks later...

The clear parts and especially the incredibly badly engineered canopies are driving me nuts and modelling time is extremely limited at the moment - I am pushing hard to finish some drywalls at home. Anyway, I have managed to spray a coat of Mr Surfacer black onto the windscreen and the front canopy before going to work earlier today. The rear canopy is more difficult as the part broke off the sprue whilst still in the bag, causing the injection point - which was "conveniently" placed in the clear portion of the canopy - being well visible and I don't quite know how to eliminate this defect. Knowing that the canopies will most probably not be up to the standard of the rest of the model is really annoying to say the least... 

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22 minutes ago, Starfighter said:

The clear parts and especially the incredibly badly engineered canopies are driving me nuts and modelling time is extremely limited at the moment - I am pushing hard to finish some drywalls at home. Anyway, I have managed to spray a coat of Mr Surfacer black onto the windscreen and the front canopy before going to work earlier today. The rear canopy is more difficult as the part broke off the sprue whilst still in the bag, causing the injection point - which was "conveniently" placed in the clear portion of the canopy - being well visible and I don't quite know how to eliminate this defect. Knowing that the canopies will most probably not be up to the standard of the rest of the model is really annoying to say the least... 

Yes the clear parts in that kit are a real pain.  I was looking at mine the other day and they have fracture marks at the injection points. Maybe @Ali62 could look at putting these in his range?  I reckon they would sell well.  Maybe with the frame included??

 

Time...aye, difficult to negotiate with, work, kids, wife and house duties not being neglected!  I hear ya.....

Edited by Anthony in NZ
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Even properly cast clear parts without visible gate marks would be highly welcome... I have spent quite a big amount of time detailing the frames, so I would not be overly happy not to use them. I have ordered one of those small dental vacuforming machines earlier this week, maybe vacuforming new clear parts could be an option. They'll surely be rather annoying to glue... but we'll see. I glued the front clear part using white glue, so I may be able to remove it again should they turn out not to be good enough. 

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What would you guys prefer, just the clear parts recast in clear resin that being parts D5 and D6 or them assembled onto B52 and B53?

Also would you want the screen doing as well?

I cannot see any reason to do the frame D3 between front and rear but do let me know otherwise.

 

Starfighter :- I think you would prefer just the clear parts without the frames, am I correct? I could make you a set of those fairly quickly all being well, BUT with the holidays and everything they may take 2-3 weeks from now to arrive?? Please send me a PM if you would like me to do this for you, or if you want the option proposed below.

 
Going forward I propose then to make a 3 part set, screen, and the 2 assembled open sections (glass and frames) as that would make production casting easier to do, would that suite most people? I think I would fill the ‘V’ groove at the bottom of the canopy rails as that would help all round and would be more accurate, would that be agreed?

 

Cheers Ali

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1 hour ago, Ali62 said:

What would you guys prefer, just the clear parts recast in clear resin that being parts D5 and D6 or them assembled onto B52 and B53?

Also would you want the screen doing as well?

I cannot see any reason to do the frame D3 between front and rear but do let me know otherwise.

 

Starfighter :- I think you would prefer just the clear parts without the frames, am I correct? I could make you a set of those fairly quickly all being well, BUT with the holidays and everything they may take 2-3 weeks from now to arrive?? Please send me a PM if you would like me to do this for you, or if you want the option proposed below.

 
Going forward I propose then to make a 3 part set, screen, and the 2 assembled open sections (glass and frames) as that would make production casting easier to do, would that suite most people? I think I would fill the ‘V’ groove at the bottom of the canopy rails as that would help all round and would be more accurate, would that be agreed?

 

Cheers Ali

Hi Ali

Great to have you enter the discussion.  Yes this area sorely needs fixing.  I think your final proposal having the 3 part set perfectly sorts the issue out for all Tamiya Phantom builders (sorry Ben as I know you have already detailed your frames-but maybe you could surgically remove the frames from Ali's parts?)  

 

Appreciate you entertaining the idea.  I imagine it would be popular indeed!

 

Let me know if you need parts as masters and I can send you mine, although I am sure there might be someone in the UK who could get them to you quicker.  Happy to help if needed

 

Cheers Anthony

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Thanks Anthony and Rick. I have a Tamika kit, in BITS AND PIECES, from when I was going to do the K/M conversion, and canopies are still good to be used as masters.

I will do a set of clear canopy only parts for STARFIGHTER if he wants them, after that I will assemble and cast with the frames, so he best be fairly quick.

PM on the way Rick, regards other items discussing 

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4 minutes ago, Ali62 said:

Thanks Anthony and Rick. I have a Tamika kit, in BITS AND PIECES, from when I was going to do the K/M conversion, and canopies are still good to be used as masters.

I will do a set of clear canopy only parts for STARFIGHTER if he wants them, after that I will assemble and cast with the frames, so he best be fairly quick.

PM on the way Rick, regards other items discussing 

Thank you sir!  You are a lifesaver...

 

I reckon that will be a great seller and thank you!

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the model is very beautiful and above all very original. The only note I make is about the small air intakes: the tamiya kit has the wrong dimensions in fact they are long (they reach the radome line) and had to be shortened. For the rest, I repeat, you did an exceptional job!

 

il modello è molto bello e soprattutto molto originale. L'unico appunto che ti faccio è sulle piccole prese d'aria: il kit tamiya ha sbagliato le dimensioni infatti sono lunghe (arrivano fino alla linea del radome) e bisognava accorciarle. Per il resto, ripeto, hai fatto un lavoro eccezionale!

;)

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On 12/12/2020 at 5:08 PM, Ali62 said:

Ok all sorted, I will make Ben a set of clear parts this week all being well, and then will make up a complete set with the frames etc.

hope all goes well, when I have a result I shall inform you all.

That would resurrect many Revell F-4s Ali.

If the clear hood parts were full depth, and designed so resin frames could be inserted after painting and detailing, that would be ideal.

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