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4 hours ago, Archer Fine Transfers said:

What you have is what's known as "blushing", which occurs due to rapid evaporation of the solvent or the presence of excessive moisture during painting. In the presence of excessive moisture in the air will cause water droplets to condense on the paint surface as it dries and become quite evident and appear as a milky, hazy effect on the topcoat.

 

How to fix this? First of all a "leveling" thinner contains a retarder which slows the drying process so thinning with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner is a good start, but since MRP already comes thinned that's not an option. Personally that's why I prefer paints that require thinning - it gives you options. Regardless, I'd try applying a wet coat of Mr. Color Leveling Thinner and see if that fixes it. Other than that I got nothing.

 

https://uk.ppgrefinish.com/en/paint-defects/blushing/

 

This makes sense considering the heat wave we have had this summer. My garage a/c (15,000 BTU) normally can make the garage comfortable almost all days but lately it won't even make a dent. We had multiple days where the humidity drove the heat index up to and over 115 (that's F, though it sure felt like C!) Reminded me of my years living in Dubai!

 

I did manage to fix most of the Lancaster and combined with the washes and weathering I applied it turned out mostly ok. There's a few spots I'm going to fix - and since this thing is so massive a few spots I'm still finding!

 

I have decided not to go whole-hog on MRP paints (insert crowd boos and hisses here :P) for the same reason you stated - I like the ability to adjust and control the thinner and viscosity myself - I thought MRP was too thin from the bottle and didn't give me options.

 

Mark

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On 10/6/2020 at 4:11 AM, nmayhew said:

now i realise this is a slightly different issue, but out of interest why were you trying to gloss the whole thing?

why were you glossing anyway?

MRP generally goes down smooth and satin; you can decal straight on this surface (you can actually decal on to something like sandpaper, but there are many who just refuse to believe this).

If your surface is rough, hozing on gloss coat is not the best solution, and doesn't necessarily address the cause of the problem

 

none of this excuses a bad reaction, but I still think there is a bit more to this, and would recommend MR Paint Fans Page (Facebook) as Rene Molnar - the founder / owner of MRP - also posts there.

 

sorry about your model though, but remember there is very little that can't be fixed, no matter how bad it looks.

hang in there.

 

 

 

I generally do a full gloss clear before decaling for two reasons - one, for better decal adhesion and less silvering, and two, it gives me better control over washes and weathering. I'm always open to better techniques though,

 

On 10/6/2020 at 8:09 AM, BarryWilliams said:

You are spot on.

 

But if someone does get some uneven finish, perhaps somewhat matt, due to paint drying before hitting the model or because of air vortexes, then there is a very simple and elegant solution.

 

Try an overall mist coat (or two) of Mr Levelling Thinner.   It reactivates the paint enabling it to self-level, giving you a perfact surface for decal application and/or enamel pin washes.  Just do not flood the surface whatever you do.  It has the added advantage of being able to be built into your aibrush cleaning routine!

 

Definitely no paint drying before hitting the model in this case. My technique is to usually lay a mist coat followed (after flashing) immediately with a medium wet coat and if necessary a medium to heavy wet coat for depth and color opacity. Been painting cars, boats, airplanes, models (plus probably a few other things) for years - the techniques cross over. I suspect that a blood toxicology report on me would turn up so many solvents and bad things absorbed over the years would make anybody faint :blink:.

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