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Hi guys,

 

In my ongoing attempts to replace my venerable go-to paints (Model Masters) I have tried a variety of alternatives. True North (horrible), Hakata (horrible, though I have been led to believe I might have gotten an early batch), Tamiya and Mr. Color (love both, though I hate mixing - Tamiya - and Mr. Color numbering system is mind-numbingly haphazard). So for my HK Lancaster I decided I'd try MRP paints. Heard lots of good things here about them. All seemed to go well, though the paint lays down really thin (!) and with some colors it's difficult to be sure of full coverage. Granted, the Lancaster is a large canvas to work with and might have added to that difficulty. Having said that the color coats all went down great. I do have some issues though with their clear coats. The gloss clear simply was too thin - I went through three bottles of gloss and barely made a dent. Except to my wallet :(. I had to switch to my stash of Mr. Color gloss clear to get a gloss coat for decals and weathering. 

 

With that done, all ready for final dull coat, I figured a coat or two of MRP flat to knock the shine off. This is where disaster strikes.

 

wZQ46s6.jpg

 

The entire model looked pretty much like this! I had this happen to me years ago when I mistakenly applied flat base (not knowing that is an additive only) instead of flat clear coat. Maybe I got a bad batch of flat clear, but I don't think it was application error. I usually start with a light coat on one section at a time, wait for it to start flashing, then follow up with a wet coat for coverage and blending. The chalkiness didn't show up until after the wet coat dried. Hmm and other bad(der) words. Now what?

 

Out with the old standby, Mr. Color gloss clear. I tested the worst areas:

 

xzbBXQN.jpg

 

The MRP was still soft enough that the gloss overcoat absorbed the flat and blended things (mostly) back to acceptable. I then recoated with Mr. Color flat and called it done. There are still a few areas where the chalk is noticable, some look ok, some to my eye still suck. Rats.

 

YTwj5Zg.jpg

 

Any comments? Suggestions? I have pretty much decided on my replacement paints though - Tamiya and Mr. Color are consistently good. No more experiments! Look soon in the RFI section for the finished Lancaster.

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

Edited by Kagemusha
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I love MRP paints Mark, but I too am not a great fan of their clear coat range, flat through satin to gloss.....none seems really to work well for me so I try to use alternatives.  My only concern with this approach is whether there might be some kind of chemical reaction from different formulae paints. :unsure:

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Bummer.  Sorry about the Lanc.  To echo the above, their clears really aren't all that great.  I've tried both their flats and satins and have been underwhelmed with their affect on sheen.  I've not had results like yours, thankfully, but in my experience, they just don't seem to have much effect.  I say this, of course, as an utter fanboy for MRP paints.  Their paints are wonderful and I'll use them whenever a project allows.  Clears?  Not so much.

 

So, for my clears I used Vallejo gloss varnish and Liquitex matte varnish in varying degrees to get the consistency I'm looking for.  They airbrush well and do the job, so I'm happy.

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It almost looks as if there may have been a tiny bit of white residue in the airbrush. I had this happen to a 1:35 Jagdtiger a few years back. A small bit of blue (T-shirt paint), left in the airbrush. Once mixed with the yellow/brown and sprayed on the model, it tinted the entire model a weird shade of green.

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Hi!

 

That looks awful on the photos, I had the same experience once on a Tamiya Lancaster 1/48th) long ago, can´t remember the paints, though.

 

IMG_0409

 

 

Looks horrible, but in real life you can´t see the effect....

 

I use the MRP paints as much as I can now and I love them, but I only use Alclad Clear Cote, Satin  or Matt, never had any problems with that combination.

 

Cheers!

 

Stefan 

Edited by Phantom2
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I had the same happen to me few years ago with Tamiya rattle cans Flat Clear,  ruined the model. After investigation into cause on the internet I came to conclusion it was the humidity as mentioned above. I live in Queensland Australia where its hot and humid in summer. So i now pick my days when I spray clears and have never had an issue since

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10 hours ago, Out2gtcha said:

Ive only had a small issue with their gloss not covering but have had outstanding results with their flat.  Sorry to see this happen on such a large model! 

Seems like it was some kind of reaction between the Mr Color gloss and MRP flat.     

 

The whole problem started with the MRP Gloss - it's just too thin to fill over a flat base coat. I blew through 3 bottles in no time flat and didn't feel like spending another $30 to keep going with the MRP gloss. Maybe there was a reaction with the Mr. Color gloss but if so it's the first paint I've seen that does. Mr. Color to me seems to be impervious and tough as nails.

 

10 hours ago, D.B. Andrus said:

Mark,

 

Did it happen to be a very humid day when you shot the clearcoat? At times, clear lacquer sprayed in damp weather will tend to "bloom" - turn whitish due to humidity.

 

My $0.02 worth.

 

Cheers,

Damian

 

This may be more likely but I've never had humidity issues with other paints like this, and the MRP base colors went on with no problem. This summer has been brutal heat and humidity-wise. I do have an air conditioner in the garage/paint booth but this summer it's been largely innefective.

 

9 hours ago, LSP_K2 said:

It almost looks as if there may have been a tiny bit of white residue in the airbrush. I had this happen to a 1:35 Jagdtiger a few years back. A small bit of blue (T-shirt paint), left in the airbrush. Once mixed with the yellow/brown and sprayed on the model, it tinted the entire model a weird shade of green.

 

I don't think so - if it was a smallish area possibly but the entire model had the chalking. And it's a honking big model!

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now i realise this is a slightly different issue, but out of interest why were you trying to gloss the whole thing?

why were you glossing anyway?

MRP generally goes down smooth and satin; you can decal straight on this surface (you can actually decal on to something like sandpaper, but there are many who just refuse to believe this).

If your surface is rough, hozing on gloss coat is not the best solution, and doesn't necessarily address the cause of the problem

 

none of this excuses a bad reaction, but I still think there is a bit more to this, and would recommend MR Paint Fans Page (Facebook) as Rene Molnar - the founder / owner of MRP - also posts there.

 

sorry about your model though, but remember there is very little that can't be fixed, no matter how bad it looks.

hang in there.

 

 

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3 hours ago, nmayhew said:

now i realise this is a slightly different issue, but out of interest why were you trying to gloss the whole thing?

why were you glossing anyway?

MRP generally goes down smooth and satin; you can decal straight on this surface (you can actually decal on to something like sandpaper, but there are many who just refuse to believe this).

If your surface is rough, hozing on gloss coat is not the best solution, and doesn't necessarily address the cause of the problem

 

none of this excuses a bad reaction, but I still think there is a bit more to this, and would recommend MR Paint Fans Page (Facebook) as Rene Molnar - the founder / owner of MRP - also posts there.

 

sorry about your model though, but remember there is very little that can't be fixed, no matter how bad it looks.

hang in there.

 

 

You are spot on.

 

But if someone does get some uneven finish, perhaps somewhat matt, due to paint drying before hitting the model or because of air vortexes, then there is a very simple and elegant solution.

 

Try an overall mist coat (or two) of Mr Levelling Thinner.   It reactivates the paint enabling it to self-level, giving you a perfact surface for decal application and/or enamel pin washes.  Just do not flood the surface whatever you do.  It has the added advantage of being able to be built into your aibrush cleaning routine!

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I have a question regarding using finishing products. Could anyone give me and others a quick tutorial on the various products? I read in this thread flat coat, clear flat, satin coat etc. I do not use an airbrush. I hand paint or use the “rattle cans”. I hand brush Future on the flat paint to get a clear coat to apply decals and another coat of future to seal in the decals. Now, I’d like to ask the experts what I should use to get a flat appearance on the model. I have used the Testors flat coat in the past and other “flat” coats. Any breakdown would be appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Jim

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What you have is what's known as "blushing", which occurs due to rapid evaporation of the solvent or the presence of excessive moisture during painting. In the presence of excessive moisture in the air will cause water droplets to condense on the paint surface as it dries and become quite evident and appear as a milky, hazy effect on the topcoat.

 

How to fix this? First of all a "leveling" thinner contains a retarder which slows the drying process so thinning with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner is a good start, but since MRP already comes thinned that's not an option. Personally that's why I prefer paints that require thinning - it gives you options. Regardless, I'd try applying a wet coat of Mr. Color Leveling Thinner and see if that fixes it. Other than that I got nothing.

 

https://uk.ppgrefinish.com/en/paint-defects/blushing/

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