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Why do Tamiya decals suck so bad....

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19 minutes ago, Dragon said:

Kev - can you explain your approach when using the hair dryer on the decals?





There's really not much to it, Mike. Put the decal on as usual - you can even use a bit of decal solvent if you like, but if you do, let it do its work before breaking out the hair dryer. Once everything is dry and secure enough that you're not risking blowing the decal off the model, set the hair dryer to its lowest heat and blow settings, and gently wave it about over the decal. Don't get too close, as even on low heat, there is a risk of warping plastic and resin, or even affecting the paint finish. For the same reason, keep the pointy end moving, just like you would an airbrush.


After a minute or so, stop and let any reaction play out for another minute or so, and then repeat. The basic idea is that the heat softens the decal and allows it to settle and conform - much like decal solvents, but without the chemicals, alarming bubbling, or wait time. A couple of caveats to add, though, in addition to not letting the area get too hot. The heat can cause older or brittle decals to crack and shrink up a little, but I reserve this technique mainly for Tamiya decals these days, and I've never seen it happen with them. The other warning is that the reaction can be a little bit delayed as the decal softens and shrinks, so less tends to be more, and it's better to come back and repeat the process than to just keep pointing the hair dryer at the decal.



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